Is it ok to use a high quality non-silicate anti-freeze in an engine that may have come from the factory with silicate coolant?
ok to use non-silicate coolant any engine?
- Thread starter Johnny248
- Start date
- Status
What I would do first (well second- the first thing I would do is rule out DexCool or any of its clones like Prestone because these contain ethyl hexanoates which can attack some gasket materials used in older engines), is look at what type of engine metallurgy you have, and which OEMS are still using similar metallurgy and what type coolant THEY are using now.
For example- if you have iron block engines with aluminum heads and other aluminum and bronze parts present, look at what Ford uses in their Modular family or what Chrysler uses in the Hemis (G-05 in both cases- which is a LOW silicate formula but still has silicates). If you have all-aluminum engines, look at what Honda or Toyota is using (phosphated HOATs for the most part).
For example- if you have iron block engines with aluminum heads and other aluminum and bronze parts present, look at what Ford uses in their Modular family or what Chrysler uses in the Hemis (G-05 in both cases- which is a LOW silicate formula but still has silicates). If you have all-aluminum engines, look at what Honda or Toyota is using (phosphated HOATs for the most part).
Last edited:
That actually sounds pretty smart. My Mitsu has Iron Block, Alluminum heads. I'm not sure if the original coolant was silicate,low silicate, or non-silicate.
I have been running Honda Type 2 non-silicate in it for almost a year. Just want to make sure that it is not a problem. I've heard that the Honda coolant is really good stuff.
I have been running Honda Type 2 non-silicate in it for almost a year. Just want to make sure that it is not a problem. I've heard that the Honda coolant is really good stuff.
Originally Posted By: Johnny248
That actually sounds pretty smart. My Mitsu has Iron Block, Alluminum heads. I'm not sure if the original coolant was silicate,low silicate, or non-silicate.
I have been running Honda Type 2 non-silicate in it for almost a year. Just want to make sure that it is not a problem. I've heard that the Honda coolant is really good stuff.
Mitsu coolant is non-silicate.
I found that out the hard way when the water pump failed at 70,000 miles and 3 years in a Mitsubishi that mom owned. Dad changed it with regular green because back then regular green was all that was sold in stores.
That car had an iron block and aluminum head as well.
What some people forget is that nearly every Honda engine that has an aluminum block still has wet iron cylinder liners that need good corrosion protection. The factory non-silicate coolant does that.
That actually sounds pretty smart. My Mitsu has Iron Block, Alluminum heads. I'm not sure if the original coolant was silicate,low silicate, or non-silicate.
I have been running Honda Type 2 non-silicate in it for almost a year. Just want to make sure that it is not a problem. I've heard that the Honda coolant is really good stuff.
Mitsu coolant is non-silicate.
I found that out the hard way when the water pump failed at 70,000 miles and 3 years in a Mitsubishi that mom owned. Dad changed it with regular green because back then regular green was all that was sold in stores.
That car had an iron block and aluminum head as well.
What some people forget is that nearly every Honda engine that has an aluminum block still has wet iron cylinder liners that need good corrosion protection. The factory non-silicate coolant does that.
Thats a lot of miles in three years. I've noticed by looking at jugs here that some of the green says "low silicate" some says "no silicate" and some does not even mention it. That makes it a little tough to just judge on color you know?
I feel pretty good about my choice of the Honda coolant, just wanted to make sure that for some reasons that engine sould have soem silicates in it.
I feel pretty good about my choice of the Honda coolant, just wanted to make sure that for some reasons that engine sould have soem silicates in it.
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
Thanks mechanicx for the info! I think that I will keep using it from now on then.
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
Thanks mechanicx for the info! I think that I will keep using it from now on then.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
I was just looking at AAP flyer, and they have Peak Long Life Full Strength on sale. It says it is phosphate and silicate free. So what does any mean? What is this stuff good for?
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
I was just looking at AAP flyer, and they have Peak Long Life Full Strength on sale. It says it is phosphate and silicate free. So what does any mean? What is this stuff good for?
Originally Posted By: Johnny248
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
I was just looking at AAP flyer, and they have Peak Long Life Full Strength on sale. It says it is phosphate and silicate free. So what does any mean? What is this stuff good for?
It is a Dexcool clone and about the only think it is good for is a cheap replacement for a car that was factory-filled with Dexcool. But even in that case I would just get the licensed version of Dexcool especially if the car was still under warranty. If the car is out of warranty and an older model it might not even really be compatible with Dexcool despite being factory filled with it, so I wouldn't use Dexcool then and instead green, G-05, and maybe Asian Formula and Peak Global.
Some might but I wouldn't use Peak LL in an Asian vehicle.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The type 2 coolant is phosphated and that helps protect iron but also protects aluminum as well. The OAT in the type 2 is non2EHA and it's not known to deterioate gaskets or sludge. G05 uses silicates which protect aluminum and other things to protect iron well but Japanese don't like silicates, so the phosphate has you covered. Japanese coolant always dropped the silicate in favor for phosphate I think. Type 2 is the best choice for this bi-metal application.
I was just looking at AAP flyer, and they have Peak Long Life Full Strength on sale. It says it is phosphate and silicate free. So what does any mean? What is this stuff good for?
It is a Dexcool clone and about the only think it is good for is a cheap replacement for a car that was factory-filled with Dexcool. But even in that case I would just get the licensed version of Dexcool especially if the car was still under warranty. If the car is out of warranty and an older model it might not even really be compatible with Dexcool despite being factory filled with it, so I wouldn't use Dexcool then and instead green, G-05, and maybe Asian Formula and Peak Global.
Some might but I wouldn't use Peak LL in an Asian vehicle.
Why is it so hard for me to find non-silicate with phosphate antifreeze at any of the parts stores lol Whatever happened to anti-freeze being antifreeze =)
I know what you mean lol. Too bad Asian Formula P-OAT wasn't more readily available and in concentrate. It could be the most universal coolant that's not know to cause problems.
Peak Global might be the most universal of the OATs but who knows since
If only Japanese OEMs didn't require non silicate and GM wouldn't stick to Dexcool, G-05 could be the universial coolant. Or if the Europeans didn't require no phosphates, Asian formula could be the universal. They are all part of the problem. I wished GM would switch to what the Japanese use and then probably the rest of the domestics would follow suit and it'd become much more available.
Peak Global might be the most universal of the OATs but who knows since
If only Japanese OEMs didn't require non silicate and GM wouldn't stick to Dexcool, G-05 could be the universial coolant. Or if the Europeans didn't require no phosphates, Asian formula could be the universal. They are all part of the problem. I wished GM would switch to what the Japanese use and then probably the rest of the domestics would follow suit and it'd become much more available.
I was at Wal-Mart today to pick up some soap and other items, and I figured I'd check what coolant they had. Dex-Cool and Universal Mix with all colors. They didn't even have just regular coolant. I guess wal-mart is not the source for coolant.
Nope it isn't, all they have is Prestone and Peak dexclones. Neither is Autozone or Advance Auto although they do have traditional green.
NAPA is the best source and has all the choice and Zerex brand which I think is better. Kmart has Peak Global and Pep Boys has a version of it too.
NAPA is the best source and has all the choice and Zerex brand which I think is better. Kmart has Peak Global and Pep Boys has a version of it too.
- Status
