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Oily Spark Plug, Should I Go Thicker?
- Thread starter camrydriver111
- Start date
Well, you can overhaul the engine if you'd be worried about it. The OP has not mentioned any other symptoms or any signs of an overheated plug.
I think you need to be in the computer section. We are talking oil on spark plug threads.
The engine feels a lot better after new air filter and plugs. It could be the filter though.
The oil loss is minimal. I don't have to top up. It stays close to full over the course of OCI.
The oil loss is minimal. I don't have to top up. It stays close to full over the course of OCI.
Motor oil can still conduct some electricity (it's not a perfect electrical insulator), and since the layer would be super thin in the spark plug threads area that will still allow some electrical conduction since the distance the electricity has to travel is a factor also.
But as mentioned, there is still the direct surface contacts that's going on when a spark plug is tightened in the head which ensures good electrical contact/conduction. The spark plug base area where it seats on the head is also a good heat and electricity conduction path.
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I bet the plug at the bottom of the photo is from the cylinder closest to the PCV hose on the intake manifold.
Re: Using Anti-seize or Oil on Spark Plug Threads
Not to do another "mini hijack" lol
but since you guys are talking about the subject ...
"NGK says their metal is a special material that will not stick to anything and no anti seize is recommended because of potential over-torquing."
"The nickel coating on most modern spark plugs provides added protection from seizing in aluminum cylinder heads and has made anti-seize less important in spark plug installations. Anti-seize can alter the tightening torque up to 20%, increasing the risk of breakage."
"From Autolite: We do not recommend the use of any antiseize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition."
Doesn't seem like that heat transfer (or lack thereof) is a major concern. Having said that, some experienced mechanics still use anti-seize and some argue that no anti-seize recommendation is due to legal reasons and is to reduce or eliminate the liability of breakage (due to over-torquing) during installation.
Not to do another "mini hijack" lol
but since you guys are talking about the subject ...
"NGK says their metal is a special material that will not stick to anything and no anti seize is recommended because of potential over-torquing."
"The nickel coating on most modern spark plugs provides added protection from seizing in aluminum cylinder heads and has made anti-seize less important in spark plug installations. Anti-seize can alter the tightening torque up to 20%, increasing the risk of breakage."
"From Autolite: We do not recommend the use of any antiseize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition."
Doesn't seem like that heat transfer (or lack thereof) is a major concern. Having said that, some experienced mechanics still use anti-seize and some argue that no anti-seize recommendation is due to legal reasons and is to reduce or eliminate the liability of breakage (due to over-torquing) during installation.
Figure showing heat transfer paths in a spark plug. You can even get some special paste to help the effectiveness of the thread path. Only 20% goes through the threads in the reference figure, but the amount changes based on the "heat range" of the plug. See other figures in the link.
https://www.denso.com/global/en/pro...e-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/
https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/silicone-heat-transfer-compound.html
https://www.denso.com/global/en/pro...e-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/
https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/silicone-heat-transfer-compound.html
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My 2 cents on anti-seize on plugs. Been using a " Q-tip" amount on the threads for over 20+ years. Never had a misfire, nor did I ever have another " stuck" plug. Cast Iron heads you need not worry about rippin the threads out, but I use it anyway. Aluminum heads are the problem, as we all well know. The head has to be cold before you remove or install, or you'll be heli-coilin before you can blink you're eyes. I'm not buying what the manufacturer's are saying. Just keep the stuff away from the electrodes.
How do you deal with torqueing the plugs? Do you reduce by certain percentage? I don't use never seize but I always change plugs at the 5 year mark to prevent stripping the threads. I would use never seize if I was sure I wouldn't over torque them.
I never torqued a plug in my life. I go by feel. You can feel the crush washer on the plug getting crushed. Once that feeling stops, I give it a little more, and that's as far as I go. Never cracked a head yet. You'll have to post a question on that, or see if somebody jumps in on this. The only things I torque are lug nuts, and I use ant-seize on them too. Just give them 10 extra lbs. Never had a wheel fly off either. I torque nothing. Water pumps, valve cover gaskets, tranny pan gaskets, oil pan gaskets., etc....... Go by feel. I dunno, that's the way I did things. Never had a torque wrench in my tool box, and still don't. Developed a feel for things in 50 yrs.
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Gasketed plugs are a bit more forgiving when tightening. Tapered seal plugs are another story. When I was a kid, I learned the hard way how they get stuck in the head if overtightened. They don’t require a lot of torque to seal.
Use angle instead of torque. Taper plugs 1/8 of a turn after they seated and with un-crushed gasket, 3/4 of a turn after seated. If the gasket has been crushed already, use 1/8 of a turn just like with the tapered plugs.
Problem solved.
Problem solved.
Tapered plugs have their upside. Try getting the crush washer out of a deep cylinder head when it backed off with the plug. What a PITA
Arco Foiled again! Another Two year old thread resuscitated ... for what reason again?
Ahh ... old guys giving sage advice
Ahh ... old guys giving sage advice
Sorry, wasn't on this forum 2 years ago.....but yes on the old guy 
I came on this forum right before my 2nd back surgery to keep myself occupied during the day. Thanks for all you're company LOL !!!! Keepin me sane.
I came on this forum right before my 2nd back surgery to keep myself occupied during the day. Thanks for all you're company LOL !!!! Keepin me sane.Right there with you. Been wrenchin' and tuning since the mid 70's - professionally for a while - then went white collar.Sorry, wasn't on this forum 2 years ago.....but yes on the old guy
So how did you find this two year old long-dead thread? You poking around down in Bob's musty basement?
I had no idea it was a two year old thread. It's just something that popped into my head at the time. I guess BITOG'ers think alike ?????? I don't even know who Bob is. Just got here 3-25. It's just something that happened to me a number of times thru the years. I should have went white collar ! Now I'm payin for it with a bum back. 2 surgeries already. One in 2020, now in 2025. I was 5'10" tall. Now I'm 5'6" tall. My discs are disintegrating
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The torque reduction factor for anti-seize is usually around 20%, so reducing the torque by 20% is a good rule of thumb. Torque specs for spark plugs are often given as a range, like 11 to 15 ft-lb. If you use anti-seize, just torque to the lower end of that range.
Spark plug torque for 50 : " Ahhhh,,,that's about right " LOL
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