I'd use a full synthetic oil in a turbocharged automobile.
Oils for turbo engines
- Thread starter Lui Wan Tiong
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Which AMSOIL range is reccomended for turbo high rev engines? 10w40, 5w40 or the 20w50?
I just bought a Redline 10w40 and tried it on my turboed car.
It seems that the engine is running smoother than before and seems to rev up easier too. but when i pour the oil into the engine, somehow i find this redline oil quite watery as compared to my previous Castrol GTX mineral oil. The Castrol GTX bottle does not state the viscosity of the oil.
I am afraid that the Redline oil is too thin. I checked my oil temperature and it stays in the 100-110deg range. Is this good? or should i use a thicker oil like Redline 15w50 or 20w50 oil?
Thanks.
It seems that the engine is running smoother than before and seems to rev up easier too. but when i pour the oil into the engine, somehow i find this redline oil quite watery as compared to my previous Castrol GTX mineral oil. The Castrol GTX bottle does not state the viscosity of the oil.
I am afraid that the Redline oil is too thin. I checked my oil temperature and it stays in the 100-110deg range. Is this good? or should i use a thicker oil like Redline 15w50 or 20w50 oil?
Thanks.
That's pretty high temp you are having but Redline only recommended avg oil temp of at least 107'c for it's 15w50 oil.
i find the 10w40 slightly thin for my old engine of around more than 100,000km... just did a overhaul.. the clearance and tolerance are bigger so I think a slightly thicker oil might do the job better. What about FK Massimo oil? some guys i know on turbo running on 15w60 of this oil claim good results. It helps keeping the oil temp lower too.
For mycase normal driving around 90deg to 100deg.. if wack hard then it will go beyond 100deg up to 110deg. so I am considering the Redline 15w50 or 20W50 for the next oil change..
What you suggest?
For mycase normal driving around 90deg to 100deg.. if wack hard then it will go beyond 100deg up to 110deg. so I am considering the Redline 15w50 or 20W50 for the next oil change..
What you suggest?
Well, unless you wack your car everyday if not RL 15w50 may not be that suitable for you..
thanks for the advise guys.. so which 50 weight oil will you guys reccomend? Redline 15w50, Castrol RS 10w50 or just use back my mineral Castrol GTX 15w40 and have much more frequent oil change??
quite confused.. currently dare not to rev the Redline 10w40 too hard. afraid my crankshaft and rod bearings get burnt like what my other friend did using Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 oil.
quite confused.. currently dare not to rev the Redline 10w40 too hard. afraid my crankshaft and rod bearings get burnt like what my other friend did using Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 oil.
I'd stick with RL 10W40. What you really need to do is an Auto-Rx clean or two first with a dino oil then move to RL 10W40 IMO.
Among the 3 oils, Castrol RS 10w50, Redline 15w50 or Amsoil 2000series 20w50, which is a better oil?
Redline specs:
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt = 19.6
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt = 138
HTHS = 5.8
Amsoil specs:
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt = 18.3
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt = 128.1
HTHS = 5.1
Castrol: ??
Redline specs:
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt = 19.6
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt = 138
HTHS = 5.8
Amsoil specs:
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt = 18.3
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt = 128.1
HTHS = 5.1
Castrol: ??
JHZR2
Staff member
there is more t it than that...
Id be looking for a 40 wt... RL 10w40 is a good choice.
JMH
Id be looking for a 40 wt... RL 10w40 is a good choice.
JMH
yes, I think you should be more concerned.
isn't it kinda hot in austin? and aren't STi's kinda hard to drive slow?
And what would you call proper cooling?
Just driving mildly before shutdown?
Idling for 2-5 minutes?
Idling at 1.5-2k so you actually get some oil flow (and more importantly, coolant) going thru the turbo?
FWIW, I've taken apart a few junkyard turbos, I can't say anything about their OCI's and cooldown periods, but the shafts were ALL coked.
I should pull apart my recently dead IHI RHB5 and see what 20k worth of M1 Redcap did to a 110k turbo. I think running 10W30 is what finally killed it. Poor lil'old turbo just needed more oil pressure....
Break-in oil for a turbo? There's nothing in a turbo to wear-in like an engine. Maybe a BB one might have some actually bearing contact? Otherwise it's oil pressure that keeps the wheel/shaft centered.
For a journal bearing turbo you just lube-em up, bolt'em in, spin the engine to get pressure, then fire her up. Please correct me if I'm wrong as I should be installing a new turbo soon.
Nope. It's fine. STis are easy on oil. I wouldn't hesitate to run the oil for 5-7K if you fall under normal service.
proper cooling as in water cooled and not cutting the engine within a few seconds of WOT. Yes, some are more problematic than others but how many stock turbo apps do you really hear having problems with coking these days? I know my beloved 99-03 saabs do but what else? Mitsus? And I mean soley coking, not other oil related problems. My last saab (a 97) I took to 191k miles on the original garrett turbo before I got in a wreck. If you can find evidence of coking on it, I'll buy you a coke.
All "modern" turbos are water-cooled, well, unless you buy an ancient T04B like some shops sell.
Not cutting the engine within a FEW SECONDS of WOT?
Turbos spin at +150k rpms. Even after a few seconds it's still spinning VERY quickly. Even when you idle a car and shut it off, the turbo will still spin. What's worse is that without BB's the wheels can wobble and rub the housings.
Are you actually saying that it'd be okay to haul *** (WOT), and stop quickly (a few seconds), and then immediately shut-off your TURBOCHARGED car?
Have you pulled apart any of your turbos?
I bet that Saab turbo would have had a coked shaft, bearings, and seals. And the turbine wheel would have been covered with carbon to the point wheer it needed tobe beadblasted clean.
I haven't seen a turbine shaft that WASN'T coked.
What's an average pre-turbo EGT? 1200-1500F? Do you think that heat isn't going to transfer thru the turbine wheel, then the shaft, and right into the oil?
I can recall someone on this forum putting a oil temp sensor on the return line of their turbo. IIRC, they were saying more like 5-10 minutes of idling to properly cool the turbo. And yes, it was "modern" engine.
What do you think miraculously changed? Oils improved a bit but their flash points didn't go up by a couple hundred degrees. Turbos are still made with predomninantly the same materials. Only the VF22 gets an Inconel wheel... BB turbos are kinda new but oil still lubes the bearings so there's little change there.
So if you're gonna by me some coke I prefer Bolivian.
Not cutting the engine within a FEW SECONDS of WOT?
Turbos spin at +150k rpms. Even after a few seconds it's still spinning VERY quickly. Even when you idle a car and shut it off, the turbo will still spin. What's worse is that without BB's the wheels can wobble and rub the housings.
Are you actually saying that it'd be okay to haul *** (WOT), and stop quickly (a few seconds), and then immediately shut-off your TURBOCHARGED car?
Have you pulled apart any of your turbos?
I bet that Saab turbo would have had a coked shaft, bearings, and seals. And the turbine wheel would have been covered with carbon to the point wheer it needed tobe beadblasted clean.
I haven't seen a turbine shaft that WASN'T coked.
What's an average pre-turbo EGT? 1200-1500F? Do you think that heat isn't going to transfer thru the turbine wheel, then the shaft, and right into the oil?
I can recall someone on this forum putting a oil temp sensor on the return line of their turbo. IIRC, they were saying more like 5-10 minutes of idling to properly cool the turbo. And yes, it was "modern" engine.
What do you think miraculously changed? Oils improved a bit but their flash points didn't go up by a couple hundred degrees. Turbos are still made with predomninantly the same materials. Only the VF22 gets an Inconel wheel... BB turbos are kinda new but oil still lubes the bearings so there's little change there.
So if you're gonna by me some coke I prefer Bolivian.
Of course not. A few seconds was an exageration but more than a minute is overkill, IMHO. I mean that as long as you don't shut it off immediately after WOT. Most normal people DON'T drive WOT and then kill the engine. But I don't know what to tell you about the heat. I could grab the stainless downpipe on my 900 by hand after a few minutes.
Yes, I have pulled apart my 900's Garrett and no, the only oil in the thing I found was the light oil coating (as in actually oily, not sludge or anything)on the intake side. This is in a turbo that saw about 10 psi of boost for half its life and 15 for the later half. Up until about 160k of its 191k life it was hooked up to an OEM doublepass IC which I replaced with a Viggen single pass unit. I guess I'm gonna half to get out the camera.
Now, of course you need a properly functioning oil setup in the engine as well as the turbo. The little garrett on my current 9-5 produced plenty of the turbo turds thanks to the previous owners preference for 10k on synth blend.
Yes, I have pulled apart my 900's Garrett and no, the only oil in the thing I found was the light oil coating (as in actually oily, not sludge or anything)on the intake side. This is in a turbo that saw about 10 psi of boost for half its life and 15 for the later half. Up until about 160k of its 191k life it was hooked up to an OEM doublepass IC which I replaced with a Viggen single pass unit. I guess I'm gonna half to get out the camera.
Now, of course you need a properly functioning oil setup in the engine as well as the turbo. The little garrett on my current 9-5 produced plenty of the turbo turds thanks to the previous owners preference for 10k on synth blend.
Speaking with VW experience, you will definitely see longer turbo life with a good synthetic. All my experience is with Redline, I am sure the other oils are great too. You do not want 15-50W in your car, it is designed to run higher temperatures than you are seeing. Use the 10-40W Redline. VW recommends synthetics in all their turbo applications. Tests run by turbo manufacturers clearly indicate that synthetics make the turbo last longer.
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