Oil usage increase with miles on oil?

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quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Ask Terry for what would make more sense for him to interpret. I imagine he'll tell you the way to get the best bang for the buck out of him. He doesn't want you to waste your money either. The way I interpret your post ..you've already paid for the "package", correct?
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Not yet. I sent for their "free test kit" and put in the comments on the request that I was interested in the Dyson Analysis. If I change my mind, I suppose I can write in the comments when I send the sample back that I decided against the extra analysis.

Anyway, looking at the oil on the dipstick, I don't know if I WANT to go past this weekend without changing it - it looks almost like roofing tar in color and is definately thicker. Eventually I would like to get pictures of this engine; the varnish buildup makes it look like the oil never gets changed and gets darker everytime I pull the valve cover; however, I had the service records going back to ~45k and the OCI was around 4000-5000 miles before I bought it and has been anywhere from 2000-5000 since I've owned it (depended on work schedule and when I could get under it).
 
kreigle

Remove and tubing going to and from the PCV valve and check for blockages and restrictions.

Sometimes the valve can be fine but the tubing will get sludged up.
 
quote:
Originally posted by BlazerLT:
kreigle

Remove and tubing going to and from the PCV valve and check for blockages and restrictions.

Sometimes the valve can be fine but the tubing will get sludged up.
Click to expand...
Valve cover, PVC valve, rubber tube, and manifold connection were all sprayed out with carb cleaner and checked for airflow when I changed the timing belt last September. If I pull the hose off the valve, the airflow through the hose is equivalent to yanking any one of the other vacuum lines - the engine completely freaks out.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I predict excessive fuel dilution (we could form a pool here).
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Putting a fuel pressure gauge on it and checking to see how long it holds fuel pressure would be interesting (it is fuel injected, not carbureted, correct?). Might be a leaking fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator (they can sometimes leak into the vacuum line).
 
Ask Terry for what would make more sense for him to interpret. I imagine he'll tell you the way to get the best bang for the buck out of him. He doesn't want you to waste your money either. The way I interpret your post ..you've already paid for the "package", correct?
 
quote:
Originally posted by brianl703:

quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I predict excessive fuel dilution (we could form a pool here).
Click to expand...
Putting a fuel pressure gauge on it and checking to see how long it holds fuel pressure would be interesting (it is fuel injected, not carbureted, correct?). Might be a leaking fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator (they can sometimes leak into the vacuum line).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I might test the fuel pressure again. The FPR is only 3 yrs old and does not leak gas, although with my short trip driving, I have had leaky injectors in the past. Only thing about the injectors is that since last July I've run probably FP60 treatments plus 1 Redline SI (1/2 bottle in 1 tank) treatment. I would have expected the FP to clean out the injectors
 
A couple of the injectors in my 160,000 mile 1988 Mustang developed slight external leaks, and as a result, I replaced all of them with flow-tested/reconditioned injectors.

Despite runing 3 bottles of Redline SI-1 CFSC through the old injectors (before I discovered the leaks), the new injectors still made a huge improvement in the idle and the throttle response..and it starts faster, too. Wheras it might have taken 5-6 cycles of the starter before the engine fired up, now it only takes 2-3.

I guess there's only so much that Redline can do for injectors which are that old.

I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator while I had the intake manifold off. It wasn't expensive and I thought I'd replace it before it failed.
 
quote:
Originally posted by brianl703:
A couple of the injectors in my 160,000 mile 1988 Mustang developed slight external leaks, and as a result, I replaced all of them with flow-tested/reconditioned injectors.

Despite runing 3 bottles of Redline SI-1 CFSC through the old injectors (before I discovered the leaks), the new injectors still made a huge improvement in the idle and the throttle response..and it starts faster, too. Wheras it might have taken 5-6 cycles of the starter before the engine fired up, now it only takes 2-3.

I guess there's only so much that Redline can do for injectors which are that old.

I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator while I had the intake manifold off. It wasn't expensive and I thought I'd replace it before it failed.
Click to expand...
NOw that you brought up 'reconditioned', the injectors in the car now are reconditioned units purchased from LinderTech about 4 years ago and have 35-40k on them. I have yet to see any external leaks on any of my injectors. The last set leaked internally due to deposits on the pintles (according to LinderTech).

And I think I already mentioned about the FPR being new; and they actually ARE expensive (for me) at ~$80. I will not even LOOK at a new one until it can be provent that my 3yr old one is bad already.
 
OK. Dropped the oil/filter on Friday. Retained almost a full quart in an empty oil bottle (filled directly from the drain plug) for future analysis. I might get a basic no-frills kit from Butler for this one.

Tested the FPR; all fuel pressure readings are in spec according to FSM. Diaphram held 25in vacuum for 3 hours with no change in vacuum. Definately nothing wrong with the FPR.

The injector rail; however, does leak down pressure overnight. I checked my records, and the fuel rail was tested for leakdown a couple months ago with flying colors. To resolve this, I put 5oz FP60 into the remaining 3gal in the tank, drove 15mi and added another 5gal. I will run this out during the week and re-test the fuel rail maybe this weekend, running back-toback shock doses until the injectors clear back up.

Apparently the head temps on this engine are high enough to clog the pintles during heat soak in only 2-3 tanks of untreated gas. I will have to remember to use either FP or another injector cleaner AT LEAST every-other tank, if not every tank.
 
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