Oil temperture before going at it (wot)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
132
Location
NC
What would be the bare minimum safe engine oil and coolant temperature in a high performance engine, really any engine before going full throttle, taking it to redline? At what temperature does complete metal expansion of components occur where they are at their intended tolerances, and at what temperature are the additives in the oil doing thier job? Obviously dependent of engine materials and possibly oil weight/brand.

I had some stop light fun with a couple co-workers after work in my challenger knowing it wasn't fully warmed up. This is a rare occurrence though. Coolant temperature was approximately 180 and oil temp 150. I have heard 150 degrees on the oil and let her rip.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: LotI
Racing on public streets is dumb.


They were riding with me and other than an extreme amount of acceleration in first and second gear I never exceeded the posted speed limit by anymore than anyone else on the road. Maybe 5 mph
 
Last edited:
Anything over 120 for oil was fair game for me. My old cammed CTS-V is still on the road with over 200k on it. Hardly burns any oil.
 
I wouldn't be worried, I also wouldn't make it a habit. I believe that the engine should be able to withstand that kind of use a couple of times before blowing up haha. If not, the manufacture did a poor job!
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I wouldn't be worried, I also wouldn't make it a habit. I believe that the engine should be able to withstand that kind of use a couple of times before blowing up haha. If not, the manufacture did a poor job!

This is FCA we’re talking about. Drive the [censored] out of it until the recall is issued!
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
No harm. Since you have a oil temp gauge, at what temp does your oil run at normally. Also, does the engine have an oil cooler built into the rad? Thanks.


Normal temp in the summer is 190-200. It has a built in air to oil cooler.
 
I always wait until the coolant reaches proper operating temperature. I know this is different from oil temperature but by then the oil is circulated enough and warm enough that you should be just fine. The warmer the better of course but nothing catastrophic will happen.
 
If you saw what they do during testing what you did is nothing. We're talking sub zero start and WOT hundreds, if not thousands of times.

Summer or winter, I can be out of the lot at work, one light and a long straightaway. If I'm #1 car at that 2nd light it's "LET HER RIP" (limit is 50) and other than maybe some rough shifts if its too cold, at 126k neither the engine or turbos cares one bit.
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08
If you saw what they do during testing what you did is nothing. We're talking sub zero start and WOT hundreds, if not thousands of times.

Summer or winter, I can be out of the lot at work, one light and a long straightaway. If I'm #1 car at that 2nd light it's "LET HER RIP" (limit is 50) and other than maybe some rough shifts if its too cold, at 126k neither the engine or turbos cares one bit.


If you have ever ordered a new car don't ever go watch it off the line being driven to the rail yard.

I occasionally watched/seen many a new car, mostly Camaros, come out of the plant then floored/matted going down Stevenson Rd to Gen Auto's shipping yard.
eek.gif


If you seen the abuse (but is it really?) your car goes through right after it is built, most wouldn't want it.
 
My Genesis Coupe 2L turbo limits boost to 5 lbs until the oil temp hits around 150F. It also limits boost when the low gas light comes on.
 
i had a custom built 700hp big block in a boat. the engine builder said at least 140 but even better 160 on the oil before hammering it. the water never ran hotter than 110 since there was no thermostat.
 
I'm sure it's fine on random, rare occasion.

My 01 Celica GT-S reads normal operating water temp @ 179F. If I give er the beans at that point, once the thermostat opens and COLD water from the radiator comes into the engine, the gauge will literally go back down a notch. Haha.

This shows that although engine coolant has warmed up, the rest of it throughout the system hasn't. Transmission definitely is still cold and doesn't like the high revs. Brakes are cold so slamming them to slow back down to civilized speed = possible warpage / hot spots.

I usually only start revving 50% of the rev range by OT and then after another 5-10 mins will I be bouncing off the rev limiter comfortably. Before that, I'm in "warm up mode" and don't rev higher then 3,000rpm regardless of whats happening on the road, whether I'm late or there's an emergency. Lol. I tell em, "hold on, the engine is still cold".
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top