Oil Strategy To Prevent Carbon Piston / Ring Deposits ?

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We know that VRP is able to clean hard carbon piston & ring deposits - but what is a good oil use strategy to prevent hard carbon deposits in the first place ? All I can think of is a good quality synthetic oil with good approvals , reasonable OCI’s (i.e. 5K miles ) and keep the PCV valve in good working order. Anything else come to mind ?
 
Having read this site for a long time many people using that same strategy still get hard carbon and piston ring deposits. Some may say it's the nature of the best in a lot of vehicles. Having said that your idea sounds like a good one, it may or may not work. I'd say it depends on the vehicle and how it is used.
 
We know that VRP is able to clean hard carbon piston & ring deposits - but what is a good oil use strategy to prevent hard carbon deposits in the first place ? All I can think of is a good quality synthetic oil with good approvals , reasonable OCI’s (i.e. 5K miles ) and keep the PCV valve in good working order. Anything else come to mind ?
What I've found which seems to work the best for my 2025 Honda Pilot is using Shell V-Power Nitro+ at every possible fill-up. I've also switched to HPL Premium Plus PCMO, but was previously using Amsoil Signature Series, so believe the biggest difference is using the Shell premium.

My Pilot now is approaching 22k miles. When I bought it, I used Shell premium, then switched to using a less-expensive, 87-octane, Top Tier gas. I soon noticed seeing quite a bit of carbon when cutting open the oil filters. After switching back to Shell premium, the last oil filter had minimal carbon deposits.

When Valvoline Restore and Protect Fuel System Cleaner was released, I used it about half way through the first OCI of HPL (switched at 13k miles) and now into my second OCI of HPL, added another bottle of VRP FSC about 1k miles ago. BOGO sale on VRP FSC ends July 27th.

Honda's J35Y8 engine is known for its prolific carbon-depositing. One contributing factor is its Variable Cylinder Management system, which turns off the rear bank of 3 cylinders. On this iteration of the J35 engine, running in Sport or Two drive modes prevents VCM from engaging. I now only run in one of those two modes.
 
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All I can think of is a good quality synthetic oil with good approvals , reasonable OCI’s (i.e. 5K miles)....
• Good base oils—GTL / PAO / Esters
• Relatively high viscosities—30-40 grade with Euro car approvals
• 5,000 to 7,500 miles oil change intervals (depending on engine type, driving style and conditions)
 
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We know that VRP is able to clean hard carbon piston & ring deposits - but what is a good oil use strategy to prevent hard carbon deposits in the first place ? All I can think of is a good quality synthetic oil with good approvals , reasonable OCI’s (i.e. 5K miles ) and keep the PCV valve in good working order. Anything else come to mind ?

So it may ask this. What do you think the PROTECT part of VRP is for?
 
• 5,000 to 7,500 miles oil change intervals (depending on engine type and driving style and conditions)
This was my filter media after 5.6k miles running 87-octane, Top Tier gasoline for this OCI. Subsequent filter media looks good after switching back to Shell premium.

The oil and filter did their jobs suspending and capturing the particles, but my preference is for there not be so much to begin with.

So it may ask this. What do you think the PROTECT part of VRP is for?
I have said, if starting over on my Pilot, I'd be using Valvoline Restore and Protect at ~5k OCIs. I have several years of HPL, so not making any more changes to my oil strategy.
 
Where is all this inferior oil at and what is it called?
Do you believe someone is going to fill their car with $5 pints of ND lawnmower oil or SA compressor oil?
There are lots of inferior oils out there. Which is why people have oil burners due to piston ring deposits in engines that have seen 3000 mile oil changes their entire lives. Which is why VRP is needed for a lot of people who thought they were using a good oil but found out the hard way that it was inferior.
 
There are lots of inferior oils out there. Which is why people have oil burners due to piston ring deposits in engines that have seen 3000 mile oil changes their entire lives. Which is why VRP is needed for a lot of people who thought they were using a good oil but found out the hard way that it was inferior.
What oil doesn't last 3000 miles?
The only vehicle I know of that's had 3000 to 4000 oci for its entire 101,000 mile life is clean as a watch on the inside, still looks brand new under the valve covers.
 
What oil doesn't last 3000 miles?
The only vehicle I know of that's had 3000 to 4000 oci for its entire 101,000 mile life is clean as a watch on the inside, still looks brand new under the valve covers.
You haven’t been paying enough attention on this site. Piston ring deposits start forming right away with a lot of motor oils, so changing them at 3k doesn’t prevent that.

And clean under the valve covers doesn’t mean no piston ring deposits have formed. A lot of oils can keep the upper part of the engine perfectly clean but can’t prevent the rings from getting gummed up.
 
We know that VRP is able to clean hard carbon piston & ring deposits - but what is a good oil use strategy to prevent hard carbon deposits in the first place ? All I can think of is a good quality synthetic oil with good approvals , reasonable OCI’s (i.e. 5K miles ) and keep the PCV valve in good working order. Anything else come to mind ?
Top tier gas
Use Valvoline Restore And Protect
Shorter OCIs
Fuel system cleaner every 5-10k miles
 
You haven’t been paying enough attention on this site. Piston ring deposits start forming right away with a lot of motor oils, so changing them at 3k doesn’t prevent that.

And clean under the valve covers doesn’t mean no piston ring deposits have formed. A lot of oils can keep the upper part of the engine perfectly clean but can’t prevent the rings from getting gummed up.
Possible but unlikely.
More likely on European vehicles....
 
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