Oil sludge issue resulting in engine failure

[StevieC]

I can ask my dad and get back to you... I'm aware of the problems with this engine but I don't know the exact setup. I'm just suggesting ideas.

What some do is take the line from the engine that goes through the PCV and vent it to a Jar of sorts sometimes with Metal Ball Bearings to condense the hot vapours, then have another line from he bottle going to wherever the line went in the first place:


Engine ----> PCV -----> Catch Can with line that goes 2/3 way into the bottle, possible with metal ball bearings ----> Catch can lid to Intake or Throttle Body etc...

 

[sparkplug]

I've considered ditching the valve and just modifying the vacuum line to fit onto the pcv mount so its just pure vacuum.

 

[StevieC]

You will burn oil like that... There is a Mod and I still can't find it where they used a GM style PCV valve that allowed more flow to help the CC breath better but not enough that it caused oil burning... Try to find it, it's an easy effective fix.

 

[grease_monkey]

I will take a look and see what i can find out, but in the mean time what are your suggestions?
Originally Posted By: StevieC
You will burn oil like that... There is a Mod and I still can't find it where they used a GM style PCV valve that allowed more flow to help the CC breath better but not enough that it caused oil burning... Try to find it, it's an easy effective fix.

 

[StevieC]

Use a high quality Synthetic oil and change it at 3-5K Miles no longer... I would also make sure your PCV is in Tip-Top Shape, make sure you don't idle for too long in traffic and make sure that the engine gets hot enough on each trip to/from somewhere.

 

[grease_monkey]

its a daily driver and gets about 11/2 hour commute each day not a whole lot of idling. I cahnge oil every 3000, miles, or three months. Should i use pp, or will yb do me well since i service it frequently? oh i also make sure the engine is hot before changing the oil. and as far as making sure the pcv is in tip top shape i changed it a year ago and put 12,000 miles on it, so how often should i change it out?
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Use a high quality Synthetic oil and change it at 3-5K Miles no longer... I would also make sure your PCV is in Tip-Top Shape, make sure you don't idle for too long in traffic and make sure that the engine gets hot enough on each trip to/from somewhere.

 

[StevieC]

I would use PP because I really don't want you to have problems with sludge and these engines will get you when you're not looking!

Use PP and go no more than 5K miles, this should make the price more affordable and give you enough of a buffer to ensure you don't have the sludge problem.

Run it for a couple of changes and do a UOA to see what the TAN, Insoluables, and TBN is, if they are good then you can go longer or try switching to YB. (Terry Dyson will be able to really help you determine this)

12,000 Miles is about the time I would change it out. I change mine at this rate and I don't have a known sludger...

The cost of using PP and changing your PCV often is cheaper than an engine in the long-run

 

[sparkplug]

I've though about redoing the pcv system with two GM style valves in the valve covers. But it might be too much vacuum.

 

[StevieC]

See if you can get a hold of a Technical service manual that might give you the vacuum rate and then you can figure out an appropriate fix or just do trial and error.

 

[grease_monkey]

alright buddy thanks alot for the help. I will do that.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would use PP because I really don't want you to have problems with sludge and these engines will get you when you're not looking!

Use PP and go no more than 5K miles, this should make the price more affordable and give you enough of a buffer to ensure you don't have the sludge problem.

Run it for a couple of changes and do a UOA to see what the TAN, Insoluables, and TBN is, if they are good then you can go longer or try switching to YB. (Terry Dyson will be able to really help you determine this)

12,000 Miles is about the time I would change it out. I change mine at this rate and I don't have a known sludger...

The cost of using PP and changing your PCV often is cheaper than an engine in the long-run

 

[StevieC]

Good Luck... Need any Chrysler advice, let me know... Dad used to work for them for 20 years and he's a mechanic too, so I consider myself well versed with their stuff.

 

[chet2]

my neighbors neons and dodge caravans have always run well, but he changes oil when needed too...i used to work with a guy who had 200k on his 95 dodge van...he did the old fashioned 3k oci

 

[NHHEMI]

I agree with StevieC to run synthetic and change by 5K to avoid any hassles. You could also consider the Quaker State synthetics( Horsepower or Torquepower ). They are very good and a little cheaper than the PP.

I love it when mechanics, dealers, car mfg's tell you not to worry about something that OBVIOUSLY is not right. Drives me nuts. The 4.7L has had a lot of sludge problems due to those "normal" things we should just not worry about.

 

[sparkplug]

Agreed. Valvoline Synpower has a smidge more calcium than M1 and would do a great job cleaning the engine up.

 

[grease_monkey]

do you think that supertech full synthetic oil would work well?
Originally Posted By: sparkplug
Agreed. Valvoline Synpower has a smidge more calcium than M1 and would do a great job cleaning the engine up.

 

[ARB1977]

That sucks.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: grease_monkey
do you think that supertech full synthetic oil would work well?


I don't know a lot about the SuperTech synthetic oil but I believe I read that it has a lesser quality additive pack vs the name brand oils? However, with that said I have also read that it is a good oil. For 5K OCI's it will probably be fine.

I personally would spend the extra $3-$5 for PP, VVL, or QS but if you prefer the cheaper option it should do fine.

 

[hooperswish1]

I drive a 2006 jeep liberty with the 3.7 which is basically the same as the 4.7 minus two cylinders. Can I expect to have these same issues as in the 4.7, or hass the breathability issue been addressed making it a strong performer with routine maintenance?

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: hooperswish1
I drive a 2006 jeep liberty with the 3.7 which is basically the same as the 4.7 minus two cylinders. Can I expect to have these same issues as in the 4.7, or hass the breathability issue been addressed making it a strong performer with routine maintenance?


There have been "some" issues with sludge in the 3.7L but not as bad as the 4.7L. The 6cyl Dodge/Chrysler engine with serious sludge issues is the 2.7L.