Oil Related Engine Cleaning
- Thread starter ChrisD46
- Start date
- Status
I have been experimenting with sludge removal on my Tahoe with 5.7 V8 with mixed results. I have videos of oil filters cut open.
the last one really surprised me.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Arctic388/videos
I really felt like i had nothing to lose if i messed up my engine since i was planning to stroke it to 383 if i need to rebuild so at this point i am just excited to see what the next filters will have in them.
with as low miles on your TB I would recommend light doses of MMO if anything and just let it do its thing slowly.
the last one really surprised me.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Arctic388/videos
I really felt like i had nothing to lose if i messed up my engine since i was planning to stroke it to 383 if i need to rebuild so at this point i am just excited to see what the next filters will have in them.
with as low miles on your TB I would recommend light doses of MMO if anything and just let it do its thing slowly.
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
I have been experimenting with sludge removal on my Tahoe with 5.7 V8 with mixed results. I have videos of oil filters cut open.
the last one really surprised me.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Arctic388/videos
I really felt like i had nothing to lose if i messed up my engine since i was planning to stroke it to 383 if i need to rebuild so at this point i am just excited to see what the next filters will have in them.
with as low miles on your TB I would recommend light doses of MMO if anything and just let it do its thing slowly.
Stroke it to a 383 from a 5.3L ? Your 5.3 is only around 325 cid`s.
I have been experimenting with sludge removal on my Tahoe with 5.7 V8 with mixed results. I have videos of oil filters cut open.
the last one really surprised me.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Arctic388/videos
I really felt like i had nothing to lose if i messed up my engine since i was planning to stroke it to 383 if i need to rebuild so at this point i am just excited to see what the next filters will have in them.
with as low miles on your TB I would recommend light doses of MMO if anything and just let it do its thing slowly.
Stroke it to a 383 from a 5.3L ? Your 5.3 is only around 325 cid`s.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Filters are going to get plugged faster than the oil will be depleted. I would just use a high detergent oil and keep up with filter changes. If you cut open your filters you can get a better idea of what's going on in your engine.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Great advice . What do you tell the owner of the vehicle when the sump plugs with a bunch crud that might come loose and he drops a rod ?
Quick fixes are NOT the way to go with an unknown engine and YES , oil will clean some . Anything else that doesn't move is best to stay put .
Anything short of tearing an engine down to scrub it out is the best and safest way to do it if you're really worried about it .
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Great advice . What do you tell the owner of the vehicle when the sump plugs with a bunch crud that might come loose and he drops a rod ?
Quick fixes are NOT the way to go with an unknown engine and YES , oil will clean some . Anything else that doesn't move is best to stay put .
Anything short of tearing an engine down to scrub it out is the best and safest way to do it if you're really worried about it .
Originally Posted By: matrass
fyi I have a 2002 trailblazer. did try Kreen in the oil and if you have the famous GM piston slap it might get worse, mine sure did. the truck runs fine but noticeably louder with piston slap when the engine temp gauge is below 150 degrees. case of it is not broke don't fix it. inside the filler hole looks very clean as I had used M1 5-30 in it for years. suppose I got caught up in the Kreen craze. I know the piston slap is nothing to worry about but it sounds terrible. I would think PP or M1 for a few ocis and see what happens.
I think the OP should give this post more weight than others.
Someone with the same vehicle having an adverse experience with an oil additive albeit Kreen not MMO.
The questions you have to answer for yourself if you use additives are:
1) If sludge and varnish are removed, what happens to them and at what rate?
2) If they get trapped by the filter, when should I change the filter?
3) If they dissolve into the oil, what does that do to the oils ability to do its job?
4) How does the additive itself affect the oils ability to do its job
5) Is there more risk from the above than just leaving it alone?
If a dirty engine bothered me that much, and it would have to bother me for performance reasons rather than for aesthetic reasons, then I might investigate using an engine cleaning service that runs with the engine off by circulating a cleaning solution through the engine and through an external filter. I would want them to do it more than once and / or until it is clear that the solution is no longer removing anything.
I would rather do a once only full clean or use high detergent oil then run an additive for thousands or even tens of thousands of miles that every vehicle and oil manufacturer tells you not to use because they might cause direct or indirect damage.
fyi I have a 2002 trailblazer. did try Kreen in the oil and if you have the famous GM piston slap it might get worse, mine sure did. the truck runs fine but noticeably louder with piston slap when the engine temp gauge is below 150 degrees. case of it is not broke don't fix it. inside the filler hole looks very clean as I had used M1 5-30 in it for years. suppose I got caught up in the Kreen craze. I know the piston slap is nothing to worry about but it sounds terrible. I would think PP or M1 for a few ocis and see what happens.
I think the OP should give this post more weight than others.
Someone with the same vehicle having an adverse experience with an oil additive albeit Kreen not MMO.
The questions you have to answer for yourself if you use additives are:
1) If sludge and varnish are removed, what happens to them and at what rate?
2) If they get trapped by the filter, when should I change the filter?
3) If they dissolve into the oil, what does that do to the oils ability to do its job?
4) How does the additive itself affect the oils ability to do its job
5) Is there more risk from the above than just leaving it alone?
If a dirty engine bothered me that much, and it would have to bother me for performance reasons rather than for aesthetic reasons, then I might investigate using an engine cleaning service that runs with the engine off by circulating a cleaning solution through the engine and through an external filter. I would want them to do it more than once and / or until it is clear that the solution is no longer removing anything.
I would rather do a once only full clean or use high detergent oil then run an additive for thousands or even tens of thousands of miles that every vehicle and oil manufacturer tells you not to use because they might cause direct or indirect damage.
Thank you Matrass and TrevorS.... voices of reason .
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Are we counting Mobil's claims that it does?
They show (or showed) it on the page for their 0w-40.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto...5881d80c1e5af_4
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Over time, conventional oils can sometimes form sludge, which can reduce your engine’s efficiency and, ultimately, reduce the life of your engine. Synthetic oils contain fewer impurities and are designed to better resist the formation of sludge, therefore maintaining their viscosity (or ability to flow) and preventing deposits from forming.
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test
In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles).
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Are we counting Mobil's claims that it does?
They show (or showed) it on the page for their 0w-40.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto...5881d80c1e5af_4
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Over time, conventional oils can sometimes form sludge, which can reduce your engine’s efficiency and, ultimately, reduce the life of your engine. Synthetic oils contain fewer impurities and are designed to better resist the formation of sludge, therefore maintaining their viscosity (or ability to flow) and preventing deposits from forming.
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test
In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles).
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Filters are going to get plugged faster than the oil will be depleted. I would just use a high detergent oil and keep up with filter changes. If you cut open your filters you can get a better idea of what's going on in your engine.
Exactly !
Filters are going to get plugged faster than the oil will be depleted. I would just use a high detergent oil and keep up with filter changes. If you cut open your filters you can get a better idea of what's going on in your engine.
Exactly !
That oil cleanup in that Sebring in one oil change almost looks a bit too aggressive to me . I'll bet the oil filter was packed !
GrIII and IV have little polarity, therefore won't dissolve much in the way of sludge that either a GrI or an ester would...
That leaves it up to the add pack, or very very frequent oil changes to take out the sludge/varnish saturated oil.
That leaves it up to the add pack, or very very frequent oil changes to take out the sludge/varnish saturated oil.
One more reason to use the largest oil filter that will fit(and not hit or be hit by anything). The larger oil filter can hold more sludge and other cr#p before the PSID gets so restrictive so that it opens the bypass.
ROD
ROD
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
There is no case on record that MMO or Slick50 does anything either (except make your wallet lighter).
I just think people should at lest TRY the synthetic oil FIRST for several changes before they start pouring in a bunch of stuff w/ unknown effects (and untested/uncontrolled dosages). BTW I do recall one case, about 10 months ago, where a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
And in case
you missed it:
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test..... In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles). PHOTOS: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Sludge_Protection.aspx
absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
There is no case on record that MMO or Slick50 does anything either (except make your wallet lighter).
I just think people should at lest TRY the synthetic oil FIRST for several changes before they start pouring in a bunch of stuff w/ unknown effects (and untested/uncontrolled dosages). BTW I do recall one case, about 10 months ago, where a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
And in case
you missed it:
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test..... In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles). PHOTOS: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Sludge_Protection.aspx
Last edited:
If it runs ok and has good oil pressure I'd just run it. Use whatever oil GM recommends probably any 5w30 will do, and be done with it.
As a rule I don't try to "fix" old engines that run well unless I want to rebuild them...of course if your board and want a project poor whatever you can find into the fill hole and try to "fix" it until its broke.
As a rule I don't try to "fix" old engines that run well unless I want to rebuild them...of course if your board and want a project poor whatever you can find into the fill hole and try to "fix" it until its broke.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
There is no case on record that MMO or Slick50 does anything either (except make your wallet lighter).
I just think people should at lest TRY the synthetic oil FIRST for several changes before they start pouring in a bunch of stuff w/ unknown effects (and untested/uncontrolled dosages). BTW I do recall one case, about 10 months ago, where a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
And in case
you missed it:
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test..... In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles). PHOTOS: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Sludge_Protection.aspx
I'd say of much bigger concern than whether they work is whether they work TOO well. Like others said, once that garbage gets dislodged, it can just as easily get lodged somewhere else (causing much more damage) before the filter catches it.
Slow and steady does it.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
There is no case on record that MMO or Slick50 does anything either (except make your wallet lighter).
I just think people should at lest TRY the synthetic oil FIRST for several changes before they start pouring in a bunch of stuff w/ unknown effects (and untested/uncontrolled dosages). BTW I do recall one case, about 10 months ago, where a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
And in case
you missed it:
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test..... In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles). PHOTOS: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Sludge_Protection.aspx
I'd say of much bigger concern than whether they work is whether they work TOO well. Like others said, once that garbage gets dislodged, it can just as easily get lodged somewhere else (causing much more damage) before the filter catches it.
Slow and steady does it.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Are we counting Mobil's claims that it does?
They show (or showed) it on the page for their 0w-40.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto...5881d80c1e5af_4
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Over time, conventional oils can sometimes form sludge, which can reduce your engine’s efficiency and, ultimately, reduce the life of your engine. Synthetic oils contain fewer impurities and are designed to better resist the formation of sludge, therefore maintaining their viscosity (or ability to flow) and preventing deposits from forming.
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test
In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles).
That is a marketing claim and what I meant as "case on file" is a record of someone actually cleaning up an engine from sludge and varnish just by using synthetic oil.
Second point, that I raised several times when this claim from Mobil 1 is referenced, is that looking at the before and after pictures I don't see any sludge. All I see in the before pictures, especially the oil pick up tube, is a very dirty oil and possibly in a heavy weight that clings to all the parts. I still see plenty of shiny metal and I definitely don't see any crusty sludge formations.
So, just like with any marketing claim, I do not believe it because we are only shown what we want to see.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Don't use additives.
They simply aren't needed, especially since oils already have additives.
The synthetic oil will remove the sludge All By Itself without assistance. Just make sure to change it at 1000, then 3000 miles (to remove the loosened-up sludge from the pan).
Total baloney that I see being repeated here to no end. Sure, fresh oil will carry out any loose or soft deposits into the filter or carry it some place else, but it will not clean the engine. Why do people keep repeating this nonsense when there is absolutely no case on record where fresh oil alone cleaned the engine up from sludge or varnish?
Are we counting Mobil's claims that it does?
They show (or showed) it on the page for their 0w-40.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto...5881d80c1e5af_4
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Over time, conventional oils can sometimes form sludge, which can reduce your engine’s efficiency and, ultimately, reduce the life of your engine. Synthetic oils contain fewer impurities and are designed to better resist the formation of sludge, therefore maintaining their viscosity (or ability to flow) and preventing deposits from forming.
Originally Posted By: Mobil 1
Chrysler Sebring Test
In a test using a 2009 Chrysler Sebring that had significant sludge formation, Mobil 1 synthetic oil cleaned up virtually all engine sludge in just one oil change (4000 miles).
That is a marketing claim and what I meant as "case on file" is a record of someone actually cleaning up an engine from sludge and varnish just by using synthetic oil.
Second point, that I raised several times when this claim from Mobil 1 is referenced, is that looking at the before and after pictures I don't see any sludge. All I see in the before pictures, especially the oil pick up tube, is a very dirty oil and possibly in a heavy weight that clings to all the parts. I still see plenty of shiny metal and I definitely don't see any crusty sludge formations.
So, just like with any marketing claim, I do not believe it because we are only shown what we want to see.
I don't see how 10% MMO mixed with conventional oil in a 7 qrt sump is going to do anything more drastic than a slow , steady clean for a few thousand monitored miles . Then it's a steady ritual of PP 5W30 and Pure One oil filters for 3K ~ 5K OCI's to see how the oil does . When it stabilizes I plan to continue running PP 5W30 and Pure One oil filters , extend OCI's to 7.5K miles and call it a day ... Does any one think the above is a incorrect approach or unsafe ?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: blackman777
There is no case on record that MMO or Slick50 does anything either (except make your wallet lighter).
I just think people should at lest TRY the synthetic oil FIRST for several changes before they start pouring in a bunch of stuff w/ unknown effects (and untested/uncontrolled dosages). BTW I do recall one case, about 10 months ago, where a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
And in case
you missed it:
There is no case on record that MMO or Slick50 does anything either (except make your wallet lighter).
I just think people should at lest TRY the synthetic oil FIRST for several changes before they start pouring in a bunch of stuff w/ unknown effects (and untested/uncontrolled dosages). BTW I do recall one case, about 10 months ago, where a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
And in case
you missed it:
Mobil 1 said:
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
However we do have some record on this board, from reputable members...
While digging through the archives I found multiple "reputable members" touting up-and-down about how "great" AutoRX was too..... they were later proved wrong (and it was discovered some were paid salesmen). Mobil 1 and other synthetic or high mileage oils already have cleaners in them, and carefully balanced with the rest of the chemistry. To start dumping A-Rx, MMO, or other stuff seems as foolish to me as popping random pills in your body. (You don't know the proper dosages, or unplanned side effects, of what you are adding.)
And in case you missed it: About 10 months ago on BITOG a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
However we do have some record on this board, from reputable members...
While digging through the archives I found multiple "reputable members" touting up-and-down about how "great" AutoRX was too..... they were later proved wrong (and it was discovered some were paid salesmen). Mobil 1 and other synthetic or high mileage oils already have cleaners in them, and carefully balanced with the rest of the chemistry. To start dumping A-Rx, MMO, or other stuff seems as foolish to me as popping random pills in your body. (You don't know the proper dosages, or unplanned side effects, of what you are adding.)
And in case you missed it: About 10 months ago on BITOG a guy used nothing but synthetic to clean a sludged engine..... he proved the additives are not needed. The cleaners already present in the carefully-developed & lab-controlled oil are enough.
Last edited:
- Status
