Oil recommendations from the Experts PLEASE.

[FNFAL308]

While I've lurked here some this is my first post.. I've read through the OIL UNIVERSITY (twice) and did glean some good info from that, but it seems to cover a lot more of the tech and chemistry then application (may be my interpretation?).. I wanted to search but was unable to use the search feature until I registered (did so yesterday) and now that I've spent a good bit of time searching this A.M. I'm still not 100% sure oil I want to use?

I should probably note a few pcs of info first. I live in South Florida, while we do get "our" definition of Winter my main concern is the summer heat,& oil function at ambient temps during start up. It seems I may have been using the wrong concepts for oil all these years thinking a good quality 20-50 was the BEST option for me here and have used that in my GAS engines many times.

After reading a lot here (and other places) I think it's time to reevaluate and make some changes in hopes of increasing engine longevity as well as possibly improving performance,& fuel mileage.

We presently have 3 vehicles in the household and I plan on changing the oil in ALL three this next weekend. These vehicles are all similar in that they are daily drivers and all SUVs. My Oldest Son owns a 95.5 ISUZU RODEO with 165K Miles. Engine is the 3.2 SOHC V-6. It is a 2WD rig with 5-Spd trans. My Wife has a 2001 NISSAN X-TERRA with 135K Miles, the 3.2 (IIRC) V-6, 2WD,& Auto trans. My current DD is also an IZUZU RODEO. This one is a 2001 with the 3.2 DOHC V-6, it is 4WD, w/the 4L30 Auto trans. NONE of these engines exhibit odd behavior, valve train ticking, significant oil leaks (My sons RODEO does have a bad rear main seal but that will be changed when we replace the clutch), or excessive oil consumption.

As noted above I always thought 20-50 was the WTG and have used that quite a bit.. Did use 10-30 on my Sons RODEO last oil change as this is what was recommended at the Oil change place and he had received an Oil Change Coupon when we bought his new tires.. I've used a Full SYN in my Wife's X-Terra and it may very well be the best option?

I'm thinking a good Synthetic BLEND in the 5-30 wt range might work well for all three but I'm NOT opposed to DINO oils and am "QUITE" open to suggestions by those much more knowledgeable on this topic then I.. I'll apologize for being so long winded but I felt like it may be easier to offer assistance with some good basic info on my requirements.
Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions, info, and assistance..

 

[Quattro Pete]

Welcome to BITOG!

5w-30 would probably work well in these daily drivers.

Whether it should be mineral, blend, or synthetic will depend on how frequently you want to change it. If for some reason you're still doing 3K mile oil changes, then everything more than mineral will be overkill. Even mineral oils can go much further today. If on the other hand you'd like to change it every 7-10K miles, then the additional price of synthetic has its justification.

 

[JHZR2]

Without concern for substantially low temperatures, I'd consider 10w-30 oils that are robust and can be had at decent prices.

I'd look at rotella 10w-30 for all. I'd also consider M1 10w-30, but I don't believe that Miami heat really will stress enough for this to be requisite. You could likely extend Ocis on it a bit though...

 

[rclint]

I would also look into the 10w-30 oils, I live right above you and to the left just a bit GA and it's the same here.. summer heat is the main concern as we seldom get what they call those winter temps as they do up north of us. Also a 5w-30 would have no problem coping with the summer heat

 

[FNFAL308]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Welcome to BITOG!
5w-30 would probably work well in these daily drivers.

Whether it should be mineral, blend, or synthetic will depend on how frequently you want to change it. If for some reason you're still doing 3K mile oil changes, then everything more than mineral will be overkill. Even mineral oils can go much further today. If on the other hand you'd like to change it every 7-10K miles, then the additional price of synthetic has its justification.


Thanks for the Welcome & prompt reply, it is much appreciated..
I think were pretty much on the same page.. While I do try to follow the 3-4k OCI's "sometimes" circumstances stretch those intervals a touch so maybe a good blend could/should be considered.

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Without concern for substantially low temperatures, I'd consider 10w-30 oils that are robust and can be had at decent prices.

I'd look at rotella 10w-30 for all. I'd also consider M1 10w-30, but I don't believe that Miami heat really will stress enough for this to be requisite. You could likely extend Ocis on it a bit though...


I should prolly change my Profile Local to "MID" Fl as I am pretty far N of Miami.. This area is known as the Treasure Coast although that wouldn't really change much as far as geography goes..
It gets HOT here as does most of the State so I think it probably is a consideration in oil selection. Much more so then the opposite like you have in NJ as we don't see much Winter.. We did see a number of frosts this past Winter, but admittedly this was a bit out of the norm..
I would consider my Driving as "Spirited" with frequently encountered 80-85 MPH interstate speeds. While I'm not at all familiar with the "M1" Oil you reference I am familiar with ROTELLA which does confuse me some as I was always under the impression ROTELLA is/was a DIESEL oil? I recently Sold my F-250 S-DUTY (7.3 P-Stroke) and used MOBIL DELVAC the entire time I owned it but would have had no issues using ROTELLA T either.
Would any of this change your thoughts?

 

[FNFAL308]

Looking for an "EDIT" option and I don't see one?

After reading my last post I quickly realized the Reference to "M1" was prob "MOBIL-1" which of course I am familiar with. Yes, I imagine that would also be a good option..

 

[FL_Rob]

I think the Rotella T is dual rated diesel/gas but dont quote me on it.I happen to use Delo 400le on every gasoline powered truck I've owned.Tough oil.

 

[Eddie]

I agree with the 10w30 and would probqably use Pennzoil dino.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: FNFAL308
Looking for an "EDIT" option and I don't see one?

Edit option is only available for the first 15 mins of making a post. After that, no more.

 

[friendly_jacek]

First, how do you define EXPERTS?

Should we state our professional titles and academic credentials?

Second, If you engines survived up to 165k miles, you are doing something right. Most of people on this forum don't have that track record.

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with 5W30 in Miami, but to me jump from 20W50 to 5W30 is a lot. I would consider 15W40 or 10W30 for a transition of sort.

However, not knowing how you drive your cars (distances, speeds, loads, towing, etc), it's hard to give any decent opinion.

 

[chubbs1]

10w30 is probably your best option for these vehicles, robust, lower in VII's so less tendency to shear and can definitely serve all of your needs in the south FL climate year round.

Which you choose is up to you. as was stated above, 3k intervals I would not use 'syn'. Any of the major 10w30's will work nicely. If you are going to extend the drains I would recommend puchasing M1EP 10w30 when it is on sale at AZ or AAP. $33.xx w/ tax included for 5 qt's and an M1 filter. You just can't beat that deal.

 

[FNFAL308]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
First, how do you define EXPERTS?

Should we state our professional titles and academic credentials?

Second, If you engines survived up to 165k miles, you are doing something right. Most of people on this forum don't have that track record.

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with 5W30 in Miami, but to me jump from 20W50 to 5W30 is a lot. I would consider 15W40 or 10W30 for a transition of sort.

However, not knowing how you drive your cars (distances, speeds, loads, towing, etc), it's hard to give any decent opinion.



My "Experts" comment was intended to be tongue in cheek and not to be taken in a literal sense.. However if you have an OIL related or Industry related professional title or academic credential by all means please feel free to share your knowledge as I am always looking to increase my own knowledge..

I did note my driving habits above and did not note towing specifically because I no longer tow anything.. Did pull an 8K LB trailer for about 75K miles over the course of the last 12 years however as I owned and operated my own Motorcycle DYNO service here in Florida..

As far as the Mileage on my Sons car I'm afraid I can't take credit for that as we bought it used.. I am however very interested in keeping it alive as long as possible since it does seem to be a good running first vehicle for him.. We have had the X-TERRA for much longer and all seems well but I'm thinking it time to seek a better oil option?

I can say I owned my SUPER DUTY from DAY one, MILE one and it ran perfectly when I sold it.. I also had a CHEVY S-10 (2.8) that I purchased brand new.. It was maintained using CASTROL 20-50 it's entire life.. Sold it with 175K on the clock and she ran like the proverbial TOP...

So do you think a "Transition" oil (per se)is required?

 

[oggb]

Whatever makes you happy.

You might get a little better MPG from 5w-30 vs 20w-50 but it probably won't be a huge difference in such heavy vehicles.

I'd say use something between 5w-30 and 15w-40 and call it a day. Rotella T5 is a great, cheap oil.

 

[FNFAL308]

Had the time to do this little chore this afternoon and got two of the three completed.. Hit the local ADVANCE AUTO after work and grabbed my Oil & Filters for all the rigs, + Spk Plugs for my Rodeo..

Advance had the plugs I wanted to use as well as an Oil Change special in their current flyer/add..

It seems Old habits die hard and I just gravitated toward the CASTROL.. Went straight DINO rather then a blend or full syn..
I may try something else next time but for now I went CASTROL 10-30 for the RODEO's and 5-30 for the X-Terra since that's what's recommended in the manual..

The sales add makes the Oil & filter (Purolator)$18.00 with the option to Upgrade the filter to the PUR~1 for an additional $2.00.. I'd say a $20.00 oil change with a quality filter is pretty [censored] good and I'm pleased with the price..

The changes themselves were a piece of cake although I did opt to remove the Skid Plates making access to the filters MUCH easier.. I have air/tools here at the house so it was nuthin but a thang..

Thanks to those that took the time to offer assistance, it is appreciated. I'll be sure to report back with anything noteworthy..

 

[Towncivilian]

Welcome to BITOG! Where are you on the Treasure Coast? I'm in Palm City.

And your Xterra should have a VG33E, and you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 if temps are above 0 degrees F, just so you're aware for your next change. 10W-30 would be a reasonable choice as mentioned above, because it's more shear-stable.

Don't forget to use the Purolator oil filter rebate! I also highly recommend downloading your 2001 Xterra's factory service manual. I'm sure it'll be an invaluable resource!

 

[FNFAL308]

Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Welcome to BITOG! Where are you on the Treasure Coast? I'm in Palm City.

And your Xterra should have a VG33E, and you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 if temps are above 0 degrees F, just so you're aware for your next change. 10W-30 would be a reasonable choice as mentioned above, because it's more shear-stable.

Don't forget to use the Purolator oil filter rebate! I also highly recommend downloading your 2001 Xterra's factory service manual. I'm sure it'll be an invaluable resource!


Shoot mang where Neighbors!!
I live in PSL and work in Palm City..

Would love to have the X-Terra manual how large a download is it? YES it does have the 3.3 V-6..

As far as the Oil I prolly should have looked at the manual in the car but instead looked it up on the Net.. I found 5-30 seemed to be the one recommended so that's what I went with..
I'll be sure to use 10-30 next oil change as having all three vehicles using the same oil would be ideal..

 

[Towncivilian]

It should be around 46MB assuming it's roughly the size of my Pathfinder's FSM. To download, just go to the link I posted and right click -> save as every PDF into one folder, and use "fwd.pdf" to navigate the FSM.

5W-30 is adequate, but as you said having the same oil for three vehicles is a nice convenience.

If you're ever in need of stuff from the local Nissan parts department, shoot me a PM here - I get wholesale prices rather than dealer markup since I'm a frequent customer and all the parts personnel know me.

Where do ya work, if you don't mind me asking?

 

[FNFAL308]

Most excelent on the PARTS, I'll be sure to do that.. I do need to have the D/Side Valve cover gasket replaced but I'm not too keen on the shop I had been using anymore and need another place..

Will download the manual on my Laptop so I have it there, prolly be handy if'n I need it..

BTW, thanks for the PUROLATOR Link! I've already printed that up and will mail it out pronto.. These will end up being very reasonably priced oil changes no doubt.. Heck the Oil is on SALE at ADEVANCE until the end of the month so maybe I'll get a spare oil change for everything so I have it on hand..

 

[crazyoildude]

pennzoil is priced like liquid gold!

 

[FNFAL308]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
pennzoil is priced like liquid gold!


Yea it was higher for sure and price was part of my consideration..
I have nothing against PENNZ products, but I also have no personal experience with them? I would try it though especially if it's sale priced similar to the current CASTROL pricing..