Oil recommendations for 2010 Sienna

[tpattgeek]

I have a brand new Sienna LE, getting ready for it's first OC at 5k miles, and I'm stumped in my decision of oil brand/type.

I have an 07 Civic which absolutely loves Mobil 1 5W-20, but my Toyota dealer says there's no benefit to synthetic in the Sienna and that it's just personal preference. I have 4 free oil changes with my dealer and can pay the difference if I want them to put a synthetic in it, but was wondering if it would be worth it for this engine for the long run and if starting it at ~20K miles (after free dino changes) would affect it at all? Are there any results that state one brand will be best in the long run? My specs are:

2010 Sienna

3.5L V6 (2GR-FE)

5w30

South Louisiana - 100 degree summers and 30 degree winters

Conservative driving habits and rarely brought to high RPM's

Vast majority of trips, engine will be running for 30 mins. or more

Will more than likely keep this vehicle till it dies and will do all basic maintenance myself

Thank you in advance for your input!

 

[Nick R]

Yes. Get the synthetic, and after the free ones, run PP, or Valvoline Synpower 5W-20 in warranty OCI. After warranty, run for 10k miles.

 

[tpattgeek]

Thanks for the info., but synthetic what? Any particular brand? M1??

 

[addyguy]

Toyota's 'seem' to 'work well' with Mobil 1 oils.

Nothing scientific, but used oil analysis always seem to be really good with Toyota engines on Mobil 1, any grade.

 

[tpattgeek]

Originally Posted By: rudolphna
or Valvoline Synpower 5W-20


I assume you mean 5w30? And I probably wouldn't run more than 5K only because of my OCD.

 

[bepperb]

If it were mine, I'd probably get those four free with conventional at 5000 miles, and then change to whatever I wanted. But, I assume the "upgrade" fee is more than what it would cost me to do the changes myself, probably 30 bucks at least.

If you're stuck on 5000 mile OCI, it really won't matter what you use, it would just be personal preference.

 

[tpattgeek]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
If it were mine, I'd probably get those four free with conventional at 5000 miles, and then change to whatever I wanted. But, I assume the "upgrade" fee is more than what it would cost me to do the changes myself, probably 30 bucks at least.

If you're stuck on 5000 mile OCI, it really won't matter what you use, it would just be personal preference.


2 of them came with rotations also. I don't think it's an upgrade fee, just the difference in cost between the two brands. Since I believe it takes around 6 quarts, it would probably be about a $20 difference. Seems a good bit cheaper than doing it all myself and forgetting about the "free ones"

 

[tpattgeek]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
If you're stuck on 5000 mile OCI, it really won't matter what you use, it would just be personal preference.


I'm not really STUCK on it, but if everyone says there's sufficient proof that this engine can do 10K OCI on PP better than it can on M1, I may do it. It will probably go 1 year before it gets to 10K anyway, in which I'd have to change it at 1 year, correct?

 

[HTSS_TR]

You want to stay with 5k OCI regardless of which oil you like during the warranty period. After warranty had expired then you can extend the OCI to 7.5-10k miles with syn oil such as Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower ... Or stay with dino for 5k OCI.

 

[tpattgeek]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
You want to stay with 5k OCI regardless of which oil you like during the warranty period. After warranty had expired then you can extend the OCI to 7.5-10k miles with syn oil such as Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower ... Or stay with dino for 5k OCI.


Now that I know this, do we all agree that if it's not a significant price difference, I should use syn starting now (5K)?

Also, I believe the OEM filter/cartridge is the only game in town for this vehicle, correct?

 

[asamek]

Personal preference, says I.

I'm changing oil every 5k, first, because I can't stand the thought of it being in there longer; second because I like doing the work; and third, because it gives me a regular opportunity to inspect everything else under there.

I'll use a synthetic only if I can get it for the same price as a conventional or blend. And even then, I mix up my own blend!

 

[tpattgeek]

Originally Posted By: asamek
I'm changing oil every 5k, first, because I can't stand the thought of it being in there longer; second because I like doing the work; and third, because it gives me a regular opportunity to inspect everything else under there


I'm with you on this, but I can't imagine mixing my own blend. I'm not THAT into it Thanks for the info. though.

 

[asamek]

Ha!

Not that tough, really. I got a case of NAPA synthetic on sale a couple months ago at a little less that $3 a quart.

So on oil change day, I buy 3 quarts of NAPA conventional at about $3 a quart, and add 2 qts of the synthetic.

 

[Andyge]

If you go with Dino I would go with Pennzoil Conventional or Motorcraft5K.

Andy

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
You want to stay with 5k OCI regardless of which oil you like during the warranty period. After warranty had expired then you can extend the OCI to 7.5-10k miles with syn oil such as Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower ... Or stay with dino for 5k OCI.


Now that I know this, do we all agree that if it's not a significant price difference, I should use syn starting now (5K)?

Also, I believe the OEM filter/cartridge is the only game in town for this vehicle, correct?

Synthetic is equal to or better than dino for any length of times/miles. If it makes you feel better in using synthetic to protect your engine, then by all means use it for 5k OCI.

You can buy Synpower for less than $1/qt after rebate, by register your car(s) with Valvoline.com. There is a post in the sale-rebate section that tells you how to do it.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Good luck finding any 5w30 USA made ILSAC GF4/5 Synthetic other than amsoil or redline. Maybe run a group iii oil starting right now to avoid any extensive cleanup when you take the syn plunge at 20K.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
...
Synthetic is equal to or better than dino for any length of times/miles. If it makes you feel better in using synthetic to protect your engine, then by all means use it for 5k OCI. ...
I'm still waiting to read proof that synthetic is not WORSE than dino for 3-5k OCI. Wheres the data? we should have enough UOA info here to form some data-driven nearly statistically valid "conclusions". And I just started work so I dont have time to pull it all together

 

[tpattgeek]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Good luck finding any 5w30 USA made ILSAC GF4/5 Synthetic other than amsoil or redline. Maybe run a group iii oil starting right now to avoid any extensive cleanup when you take the syn plunge at 20K.


Not sure I understand. What's wrong with Mobil 1 5w30? And do you see an issue starting a syn at 20K? What kind of cleanup? Please elaborate.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_5w30.aspx

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Oh, I'm a holdout that majority base group iii oils are not synthetic. Given 5w30 is as flawed an oil as 10w-40 (or moreso) the vii addditives will leave quite a mess in the ring area of the pistons and the high detergent bias of a synthetic oil will show some cleaning period "effects" during the changeover. Mobil cautions about this though more at HM older vehicles. I think 20k is PLENTY of hours to coke up the pistons IMO.

 

[Slick 55]

My 2008 runs well on Pennzoil Platinum 5w30.