Oil Recommendations Burning Oil

Pennzoil motor oil
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index1489

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Apr 21, 2009
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Chino CA
I have a 2002 Hyundia Sonata V4, 190K (Mostly Highway) and its burning oil I need to add a quart like every 2-3 weeks, Im running Royal Purple 5-20 then switched to Royal Purple 10-40 and it seemed to help a little, Im also using both KN Oil/Airfilters. It seems from what I been reading Royal Purple has been the wrong choice for this application, more suited for short term drain intervals and performance. Also been reading up on autoRX and mabye using that with Castrol High Mileage 10w40.

I guess while im here I should ask about my other vechiles I also have a 2006 F150 60k, just change the plugs battery trans fluid, running royal purple 5-20 changed every 10k with KN filters. This truck does mostly highway but I pull and haul tons with the truck, I have a liftgate installed and its not uncommon to have 500lb of load on this truck. It sometimes can site parked for a week or two. Im considering switching to AMSOIL.
Would you guys recommend a autoRX application for a truck with this mileage, I did seafoam the truck at 60k aswell and added redline fuel injector cleaner to all three cars.

And lastly I have a 2006 BMW 330i 40k on the clock, been following BMW Service Schedule, with there 15k drain intervals and filters, basicly take it to the dealer for free maintenance for 4 years 50k when the service light comes on. The oil they use is BMW Branded Castrol Based 5-30 this is the stuff the dealership uses....

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...&catalogid=4462

Well NOT exactly 15K BMWs have a oil CBS condition based sensor that can shorten or extend this depending on how the car is driven for more on this https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/bmws-condition-based-service-system.84476/

And on there website they list the following bmw approved oil alternatives
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx

"The oils listed below meet BMW's Long-life rating and are acceptable for use in BMW Passenger vehicles and SAVs in the US market with gasoline engines.


BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market:



•Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30


•Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40


•Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5w30


•Valvoline SynPower SAE 5w30 (This isnt the over the counter version)


Use only oils with an API rating of SM or higher.

The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic conditions in the region in which you normally drive your BMW."

But free maintenance is going to end soon and Im going to be doing my own oil changes at every 10k and want to switch to something better, I want to keep this car forever....
Car is driven daily 50 miles city, M-F, weekends I might track the car redline the [censored] out of it. So I was considering Royal Purple new Euro Blend, or Redline with BMW filters. Not sure on DD protection by doing this.


Thanks in advance for all your guys help!
 
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I don't know about the BMW but the oil and OCI's seem to be fine for your other cars. A round of ARX may help the Sonata if it needs the ring packs cleaned up.

After looking at the BMW stuff again I think the Mobil 1 0W40 would be a good choice for it.
 
Welcome to BITOG.

On the BMW, either the Mobil 1 0W-40 or the Castrol 0w30 (also known as German Castrol or GC around here) are your best choices. Both are readily available at retail and meet the various BMW requirements.

It sounds like your truck maintenance plan is good, as long as you feel it's working for you. I see no need for ARX unless you feel you have a problem. Instead, you are better off doing a few used oil analysis and see what is really going on with your engine and oil. Only then should you make any significant changes.

As for the Hyundai, I'd never use an expensive product in a car that burned a lot of oil. At almost 200k it sounds like you are reaching the end of the car's effective lifespan. Anything you do now is little more than keeping it on life support. I'd cut costs as much as possible within reason; saving money here can be spent on the BMW or the truck. Also, you may want to consider finding out exactly why oil is being burned, maybe it's somewhat fixable.
 
Thanks guys
As far as the hyundia, I plan on keeping it around for a while, I put tons of miles on this car (90 percent highway) replaced the trans at 150k (Only cost me 250 bucks no joke and it had 50k on it) and will replace the engine as soon as this one dies, the car has no power whatsoever, the pcv is likely clogged, and the valve cover gasket is leaking, Im planning on changing both of those things, and the last time I changed the oil I did it myself and was shocked to find tons of crud on the oil pan bolt and surrounding areas.

I don't understand why autoRX dosent work with High Mileage oil, is it because it has GROUPV Additives? What oil/filter would you recommend for the RX application, and after that would it be advised to switch to Castrol GTX High Mileage.


For the truck, I guess ill just keep using the purple stuff with KN filters!

For the BMW, a lot of guys like me(who didn't lease there cars and turn it in for a new one at 30k) seem to be changing there oil at 7500 not reset the service interval and have BMW do it at 15k, basicly they pay for every other oil change, Im going to be doing this after 50k.

What are you guys thoughts on Motul 300v or ELF/Total oil, good for a daily driver? Im worried about start up protection with this oils.
 
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Originally Posted By: index1489

I don't understand why autoRX dosent work with High Mileage oil, is it because it has GROUPV Additives? What oil/filter would you recommend for the RX application, and after that would it be advised to switch to Castrol GTX High Mileage.


For Auto-Rx to work at its best, use the cheapest GP II or III oil you can get your hands on. This is to avoid competing chemistries (which are present in high mileage oils). Castrol GTX or Pennzoil conventional are both perfectly good choices for your application. An OEM filter would do just fine. Other choices would be WIX or Purolator.

Once the application is over, you can just use a maintenance dose (3 oz.) of Auto-Rx as opposed to using a High Mileage oil if you wish...this can be used with both conventional and synthetic oil.
 
On the BMW.. perhaps a point of clarification - The BMW maintenance program will perform an oil change whenever the service indicator says change it... Or they will change it annually - whichever comes first.

I took my 535i in at 13 months with only 7600 miles on it and they cheerfully changed the oil (BMW High Performance 5W30 Synthetic) and did not reset the service indicator. They said come back for another change when the service indicator says its ready (about 6K more miles), or in 12 months whichever comes first.
 
Originally Posted By: index1489
bretfraz
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx
Is the oil you recommend for the BMW Correct?
Would this be ok with 10k intervals?
This is a more true synthetic then BMW's Castrol correct?

Thanks


Yep, that's it.

10K intervals? Probably OK, you might want to do a used oil analysis (UOA) just to make sure everything looks good. Many top synthetics can do 10K without issues but since you plan to keep the car for many years, best to know for sure how the oil is holding up.

I would not say 0W-40 is a more "true synthetic". I'm not really sure what that means. What I do know is German Castrol 0w30 is a fabulous oil in most applications including your car. From Castrol's website:


SAE 0W–30:
Castrol SYNTEC 0W–30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W–30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low–temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to –40ºF. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL–01; GM–LLA–025, GM–LL–B–025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF–3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

Either one would be a fine choice for your BMW. I'm partial to GC but the Mobil 1 0W-40 is also excellent.
 
If the Sonata is burning 1 quart every 2-3 weeks, I would use a conventional oil like 15W- 40, or the 10W-40 High Mileage GTX you are thinking of. Conventional oils these days are very high quality and have improved a lot in the last 15-20 years. You're just blowing high priced synthetic out the tailpipe with no real benefit with that type of consumption.
 
Thanks guys
In the Sonata Im switching to Castrol GTX non High Mileage 10-40 with autoRX once the treatment is complete im switching to Castrol GTX High Mileage with KN Filter. And Im going to replace the PCV and valve head gasket which I can see leaking.

For the Truck Im going to try Amsoil oil and filter there website recommends SAE 0W-20 100% Synthetic Motor Oil for the truck but Im going to be doing changes at 10k not this insane 25k they say.

As far as the BMW
....

what I meant was isn't Castrol really Group III oil , would a Group IV be a better choice?

The reason I ask is because I notice on every BMW I encounter when using the OEM fluid there is always black crude on the tips of the exhaust after like 1500 miles and when people switch from that to lets say REDLINE/Royal Purple/Motul 300v clean tips.

Thanks
 
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GC is PAO-based Group IV. Some of the other Syntec grades may be Group III but not 0W-30.

I can't comment on the carboned exhaust tips and oil choices but I would not connect the two right away. Seems to me carboned up exhaust comes from an over-rich condition which could be caused by lots of things.
 
Originally Posted By: bretfraz
Welcome to BITOG.



It sounds like your truck maintenance plan is good, as long as you feel it's working for you. I see no need for ARX unless you feel you have a problem. Instead, you are better off doing a few used oil analysis and see what is really going on with your engine and oil. Only then should you make any significant changes.



I would think burning a quart every 2 weeks would be a problem, right? How many miles a week do you drive Index? If you don't have any major issues, ARX should help consumption. Check out my thread in the oil additives section "ARX maintenance dose/ no consumption Lancer." I was really impressed with ARX in this case, and that was only a maintenance dose.

In our Corolla, consumption is about the same after 2 clean/rinses, but I blame that on a faulty ring design by Toyota(common issue w/ Corolla owners).

BTW, your plan sounds good.
 
Great bretfraz, Im leaning towards the Castrol Syntec, but whats this new Castrol Edge, is it better? Don't care about the price or if its BMW certifed I just want the best.

But the exhaust tips are not just in my car, two of my friends have 2008 BMW 335i one with 6k the other with 2k same deal, when I took my car for service recently I was given a 2008 335i with 7k as a loaner same deal, Im sure it has sometime to do with BMW OEM Fluid. Hoping this Castrol Syntec is better, Im going to be doing changes at 7500 with BMW OEM Oil Filters.

I think he meant the truck if I should use autoRX on the truck, I recently seafoamed it and added redline fuel injector cleaner.

Cant wait till I try autoRX in the sonata, man I can just see the junk pouring out of the pan now!
 
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The verdict seems to be out on Castrol Edge. There are a handful of members here who are trying it now and will post used oil analysis when they're ready. It certainly appears to be an excellent product. I would not hesitate to use it except for its price, which is a bit steep IMO.

To determine which oil is best for you, think about what's important and research products that meet those requirements. For example, I want a product that gives me max protection at startup, a reasonably long OCI (7500 miles or so), good retail availability at a decent price. In other words, I want value. Decide on what's important to you and go from there.
 
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