Oil recommendation for 06 Mitsu Eclipse

[Johnny248]

Searching for new oil again. Looking for the "best" oil for my criteria. I live in the Metro Detroit area and the vehicle is driven from ~April - November 29 each year. I consider it my summer car. In about 8 months of driving, I'm probably anywhere from 8-12k.

Importance of the oil is in this order:
1. Synthetic's only. Just piece of mind.
2. Engine wear / engine protection. I like Moly and cat safe levels of Zinc.
3. Engine efficiency / power. Don't need Nitro 70 slowing it down lol
4. Fuel efficiency
5. 1 oil change per driving season. 2 at most.

Background info.

During my season, the average temp is in the range from ~55f to ~90f. The hot spell starts towards the end of May and runs until about 3/4 through Sept. Average temp over that time is above 73f.

The car is my summer hot rod (lol) and I do enjoy driving it faster and harder than I would normally do my daily driving. Redline shifting is a daily occurrence.

Vehicle is a 2006 Mitsu Eclipse GT 6G75 3.8l Mivec OHC V6. The Mivec in this case has oil solenoids that open to engage a the high lift rocker arms on the intake side. This is done with oil pressure.

The original oil spec'd by the owners manual shows 0f - >120f 10w30 SL.
NOTE:
SAE 5W-20 engine oil is strongly recommended for optimum fuel economy and cold starting .If the ambient temperature is not within the usable temperature range of SAE 5W-20 shown in the above illustration, use SAE 10w30 engine oil.

Being that optimal fuel economy and cold starting are not a huge concern of mine since it is driven in warmer weather, I'm wondering if the engine is better off with a 30w oil vs the 20w. This engine is louder than say a 3.5l Toyota or Honda engine and I fear that with a 0w20 or 5w20 type oil, it would be even louder. I also wonder why they would not recommend a 5w30 over a 10w30? I've seen other owners manuals that state 5w20 is recommended, if not available 5w30 use is ok.

This is probably a lot more typing than is needed for such a question, so sorry for the long read. All being said, do I go with a 5w20/0w20 syn? A 5w30? A 10w30? or even a 0w30?

Like my tag states, I'd much prefer to use an Amsoil product, however I am open to other brands. (new users of Pennzoil Ultra and Quaker State Ultimate Durability in two other vehicles.)

Thanks for everyone's time and input.

 

[randomhero439]

Pennzoil Ultra 10w30 would stand up to your driving style, sadly a standard 20 grade would not.

As far as Amsoil goes... The Signature Series 0w30 would be a great choice and just change it before you get it out in the summer.

I autocross my Accord (specced for 5w-20) in summer. I use a CATERHAM blend 0w-30, might be a good idea too look into that. With your car, i would check out 3qts of Toyota 0w-20 and fill the rest (1.5qt) with Mobil 1 0w-40.

 

[285south]

Liqui Moly 10w30 would also be a solid choice.

 

[UNC151]

Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-20 is all you need and at ~ $21.00 per 5QT jug it is quite economical.

You should have ZERO fear about running 5W-20 during a Detroit summer; I run it in Houston that almost certainly is hotter than Motown and I am using a conventional.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-20 is all you need and at ~ $21.00 per 5QT jug it is quite economical.

You should have ZERO fear about running 5W-20 during a Detroit summer; I run it in Houston that almost certainly is hotter than Motown and I am using a conventional.


With his style of abusive driving? I dont think the 20 grade oil recommendation is based on redline lining the car often. It states fuel economy and cold starting. I agree there is ZERO fear about running 20 grades during the summer, but under high-performance driving conditions i beg to differ.

ALSO: Redline 5w-20 or 0w30 would be great choices.

 

[UNC151]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
With his style of abusive driving? I dont think the 20 grade oil recommendation is based on redline lining the car often. It states fuel economy and cold starting. I agree there is ZERO fear about running 20 grades during the summer, but under high-performance driving conditions i beg to differ.

ALSO: Redline 5w-20 or 0w30 would be great choices.

Why? How do you know? Do we not think the OEM would have tested the engine under ALL operating conditions before stating the recommended oil? Why do we as non-engineers feel like we have more design knowledge than the engineers, mush less the funding to do the testing as they have? I am not attempting to hammer you, but things like this are posted all too often with little to no data to back it up. If Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-20 is not good enough, then why would Redline 5W-20 be ok?

 

[LeakySeals]

PU or Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. PP is super cheap at Walmart right now, $22 a jug.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
With his style of abusive driving? I dont think the 20 grade oil recommendation is based on redline lining the car often. It states fuel economy and cold starting. I agree there is ZERO fear about running 20 grades during the summer, but under high-performance driving conditions i beg to differ.

ALSO: Redline 5w-20 or 0w30 would be great choices.

Why? How do you know? Do we not think the OEM would have tested the engine under ALL operating conditions before stating the recommended oil? Why do we as non-engineers feel like we have more design knowledge than the engineers, mush less the funding to do the testing as they have? I am not attempting to hammer you, but things like this are posted all too often with little to no data to back it up. If Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-20 is not good enough, then why would Redline 5W-20 be ok?


It says it in the owners manual, 5w-20 for optimal fuel economy and cold starting. An even better example is the BRZ/FRS and ALL Toyota owners manuals. It states that if heavy engine loads are anticipated use a thicker oil. What is the OP doing? Bing Bing heavy engine loads, driving spiritedly, redlining the engine!

Quaker State Ultimate Durability has an HTHS of 2.6, being a true 20 grade oil. Where Redline 5w-20 has an HTHS of 3.3, hardly a 20 grade oil. With higher oil temps anticipated I would use a Group 3/4, thin 30 grade such as Amsoil Signature 0w-30, Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 or a high VI Caterham blend. BUT if you got the cash, which i think the OP does, Redline 0w30 or 5w-20 would be optimal IMO

I race my car, its specced for 5w-20. Ive put alot of thought into reasons why you should up the oil grade for high performance usage. Im a firm believer that oil specifications are given for the EXPECTED USAGE of the vehicle. S2000, 10w30 when all other Hondas are 5w-20, same 30 grade goes for the Civic Si. The most obvious example is the Mustang GT vs Track Pack (5w-20 vs 5w-50). Expected usage. I use a thicker 0w30 for autocross in the summer. And im planning on using a very thin 0w30 for moderate abuse in the winter.