Oil Recommendation 94 Civic LX ~150k

[Kaie]

HELLO!!! I have been doing some research on oils for my woman's car, but id like to hear what other people have to say/suggest.

So i have a '94 Honda Civic LX 4D Automatic with 155k on the odometer.

The manufacture recommendation is 5w30 i believe.
I have only done one oil change as we just got the vehicle. I used Castrol [it was on sale] 10w40 w/ Stateside MANN/Bosch/Purolator filter, because it has all kinds oil burn off.
I haven't sent in an oil test yet.

Shortly after getting the car it blew its head gasket. Its currently in the shop getting that fixed and possibly the valve stem seals replaces. In hopes that will reduce the oil burn off.

I live in Western Washington, just outside Seattle. Pretty moderate temps.
Summers are: average of 70-80, But we've been known to have 2-7 days a summer that its 90-100F.
Autumn/Winters: are usually high 30s to Low 50s, but we've been known to have a week of 15 degrees.
Springs are: usually Low 50s to High 60s. Some years its been in the 80's in the spring. But not often.

This car is my girlfriends car. She transports our kids in it sometimes and drives about 40 miles on average a day. Mostly highway.

The car is driven pretty calmly. She's a pretty passive driver.
I always let the car warm up before i drive it. Can't say the same for my girlfriend though. =D

So, as far as my preferences... I'm not sure if i can change it over to synthetic if i get the valve seals replaced. I would like to at least. If not thats fine i can stick to conventional. I don't really have a price limit. Nor do i mind ordering online.

I'm interested in those single weight oils but i'm not sure what thats all about.

Thanks in advance.

PS. When i need replacement parts for my VW I go to GermanAutoParts.com BlauParts.com Or ECSTuning.com. I've been looking for similar sites for Honda. I cant find much. Most of what i find is pretty sketchy. Anyone know of anything like those sites?

=D

 

[HangerHarley]

94 Civic?

5w30.

PYB

 

[Kaie]

...

 

[finalyzd]

Mobil clean 5000 5w30

Or syntec 0w30

I really think any oil would be fine with reasonable OCI's

 

[Dave Hess]

Any low cost 5w30 oil.

Why did the car blow the head gasket ?

 

[Kaie]

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Any low cost 5w30 oil.

Why did the car blow the head gasket ?


We have no idea really. A friend owned the car for 5 years before us and claimed to never have an issue. They ran into some money bought new cars and gave us this civic. 4 days after we had it i noticed steam coming out of the engine bay. Before i could pull over, the radiator popped.

We got it towed to a shop. He replaced the radiator, did a compression test [he said it was normal], and let it idle in his bay for an hour said it never moved past idle temps, and that the fan turned on and off.

On her way home my girlfriend called me and said it was over heating again. So we attempted to weasel it back to the guys shop; half way there it started spewing white smoke/steam from the exhaust. We towed it the rest of the way there.

Either it is a faulty and fluke t-stat failing closed. Or the initial issue was the head gasket. Or ????. Guess we will find out after the gasket is replaced.

Originally Posted By: finalyzd
Mobil clean 5000 5w30

Or syntec 0w30

I really think any oil would be fine with reasonable OCI's


Yeah, i'm all about on time OCI's. For my VW i buy 10 packs of MANN or Mahle filters.

Wish i could find a joint to pick up general filters in bulk. I thought amazon.com would have the hook up, i was wrong.

So with the Syntec suggestion, you think a simple valve seal replacement would 'prep' an over 100k vehicle for synthetic? From what i know it usually shouldnt be done to cars over 100k do to the valve seals being 'used to' conventional.

Can you point me in the direction of what the advantages of the 0w* oils are?

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: Kaie
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Any low cost 5w30 oil.

Why did the car blow the head gasket ?


We have no idea really. A friend owned the car for 5 years before us and claimed to never have an issue. They ran into some money bought new cars and gave us this civic. 4 days after we had it i noticed steam coming out of the engine bay. Before i could pull over, the radiator popped.

We got it towed to a shop. He replaced the radiator, did a compression test [he said it was normal], and let it idle in his bay for an hour said it never moved past idle temps, and that the fan turned on and off.

On her way home my girlfriend called me and said it was over heating again. So we attempted to weasel it back to the guys shop; half way there it started spewing white smoke/steam from the exhaust. We towed it the rest of the way there.

Either it is a faulty and fluke t-stat failing closed. Or the initial issue was the head gasket. Or ????. Guess we will find out after the gasket is replaced.

Originally Posted By: finalyzd
Mobil clean 5000 5w30

Or syntec 0w30

I really think any oil would be fine with reasonable OCI's


Yeah, i'm all about on time OCI's. For my VW i buy 10 packs of MANN or Mahle filters.

Wish i could find a joint to pick up general filters in bulk. I thought amazon.com would have the hook up, i was wrong.

So with the Syntec suggestion, you think a simple valve seal replacement would 'prep' an over 100k vehicle for synthetic? From what i know it usually shouldnt be done to cars over 100k do to the valve seals being 'used to' conventional.

Can you point me in the direction of what the advantages of the 0w* oils are?


Well, since all that happened.. Valvoline MaxLife 5w30.

You got about 50 to 100k before you need to ask yourself how your Transmission is holding up!

I had a 94. EX. Not bad. A bit low-powered.. but more reliable than a Ford, 11 years newer.

Tough call.

 

[finalyzd]

I think you can switch to synthetic regardless of mileage. You might have some consumption but will settle after a couple oil changes. Main benefit is extended intervals. But you seem like you change your oil often so mobil clean 5w30 would keep your honda running like a champ and keep things clean too.


Also the 0w question, I'm still trying to figure that out lol. I've just had good used oil analysis with it(syntec0w30)

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: finalyzd
I think you can switch to synthetic regardless of mileage. You might have some consumption but will settle after a couple oil changes. Main benefit is extended intervals. But you seem like you change your oil often so mobil clean 5w30 would keep your honda running like a champ and keep things clean too.


Also the 0w question, I'm still trying to figure that out lol. I've just had good used oil analysis with it(syntec0w30)


"Syntec 0W-30" is GC, you could use that. Seems you CAN use it in anything! Except if your car calls for 20W-50. Then its a "MAYBE" (Dr. Haas, Caterham. Could work) *SOME cars do.. not a lot.

As to your Honda, a few points:

1) Having had your car, I can tell you its about mid-life. Had nice, cold AC too! Only 5w30 is needed. Go thicker (you can) and you arent "Gaining" anything, unless you have a problem? And your car will be SLOW.. it LOVES 5w30. Go thinnner, and gall your Cam out (dont do it. Its stupid.) 5w30 IS thin.

2) GC is a 0W-37.5... nice and thicker. Synthetic, too. I actually think a nice Pennzoil conventional, or shoot even Castrol Edge (nice and thin 5w30) would be better, on Synthetic end. GC is a "Thicker" 30, and can do well where 40s were used.

3) Your car will have Transmission issues if and when before it has Engine issues. Some have neither. Just a thought.

4) Learn to drive )they may call it "Performance" or "Stunt" Driving, IT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE) so you can spin the car around and have it hit the TRUNK instead of the HOOD.. this car is NOT the toughest out there. *Ask me how I know. Answer: A 1990 Caprice parked itself right next to my right leg.. from the Passenger side. YOW!)

5) Honda is good car. I hope you have an EX. As i said, it had MORE reliablity (at least engine-wise, which is main part of car) than a Ford Escort, 11 years newer. And that car was not bad! As long as it runs, they have been "Known to fail."

I still say Pennzoil Conventional 5w30, Valvoline MaxLife FULL SYNTHETIC 5w30, or Castrol Edge. And if there is no Gasket issue (If your compression test was OK you are good,) use ANY ONE of them.

Draw straws and choose. Straw 1: Pennzoil Conventional 5w30. Straw 2: Castrol Edge, 5w30. Straw 3: Valvoline MaxLife, either Full Synthetic or Not (If FS makes you feel better, USE IT) as Straw 3.

 

[Kaie]

Thanks for all the good info..

However.. What does GC mean? I did some googling and didnt turn up with much.

Oh German Castrol.

 

[chubbs1]

Just had a comment if you want to try the venerable GC Syntec 0w30 it is on sale at AutoZone 5qt.s + a K&N oil filter for $29.99. A good deal to test it out. 0w gets flowing to your engine faster at start-up and that is where a great majority of wear is from. 0w flows almost like water through the engine at startup. 5w is fine for your climate too. Mobil 1 0W30AFE is showing some nice promise too, Walmart $23.50 for a 5qt jug. Also Pennzoil conventional as some mentioned is absolutely adequate for your engine and is cheaper. When you find the monthly deals at AZ or Advance Auto it is a really good deal to get a premium filter and oil. It's your choice and there is no wrong one if you follow the advice from this and the posts above.

 

[Kaie]

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Just had a comment if you want to try the venerable GC Syntec 0w30 it is on sale at AutoZone 5qt.s + a K&N oil filter for $29.99. A good deal to test it out. 0w gets flowing to your engine faster at start-up and that is where a great majority of wear is from. 0w flows almost like water through the engine at startup. 5w is fine for your climate too. Mobil 1 0W30AFE is showing some nice promise too, Walmart $23.50 for a 5qt jug. Also Pennzoil conventional as some mentioned is absolutely adequate for your engine and is cheaper. When you find the monthly deals at AZ or Advance Auto it is a really good deal to get a premium filter and oil. It's your choice and there is no wrong one if you follow the advice from this and the posts above.


What do you suppose i should adjust my OCI's to? Would the whole 9K on Synthetic apply to this vehicle?

Is the 0w30 at AZ ALWAYS GC? I'm guessing it says "Made in Germany" on the back; for checking purposes.