Oil recc '19 Stinger 3.3TT with track time?

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Feb 23, 2022
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Hi. Long time occasional reader, first time poster.

Car is '19 stinger gt1 awd w/ jb4 tune. Car is 3.3TT, with GDI, so LSPI is a bit of a concern. I've started doing track days, and last year rarely saw the oil temp go above 230F (5 days at Sonoma).

Did Laguna Seca in Feb, and saw 250 - more aggressive track and I'm getting a bit better, I guess. Ambient temp was 60s, iirc.

So far, I've been using Costco 5w30, and changing it after every track weekend. As everyone has no doubt noticed, the prices have significantly jumped from $25 to $40. So in light of pushing my oil harder than before, and not much of a savings left, I'm asking for some recommendations.

While the MY 2018 manual lists a variety of oil weights, the MY 2019 manual only has 5w30 and 10w30. I'm in NorCal (Bay) so the 32F we saw this morning is about as cold as it gets, while we often see 100F.

M1 15w50 seems recommended for racing, but it seems hard to find and 2.5x the price of plain 5w30.

My questions:
1) is regular M1 5w30 fine for temps of 270-280? 300? Assuming I still change it frequently?
2) any other brands to look at? I avoided M1 in my Subaru due to excessive consumption and used PP / PUP. Should I consider PUP 5w30 / Euro 0w30/40?
3) I realize Amsoil Signature is the ultimate choice, but is it worth it? Can I go multiple track weekends with Amsoil Signature?

Thanks.
 
if the oil is going above 250 run a 5w40 or at least one of the thicker 5w30's. I'd assume fuel dilution is mild with your climate and frequent oil changing.
Porsche A40 would be a bonus spec.

The difference between PP 5w30 and 5w30 euro L is almost 15% thicker.. I still think a 5w40 with Porsche A40 is more appropriate.
 
Let UOA results tell you whether you need to change the oil after each event. When I used to race in SCCA, that's what I did. Pulled a 3 oz. sample and sent it in for UOA after each event. The results said I didn't have to change the oil for every event. It's cheaper than changing the oil and it gave me peace of mind.

Also, since you're concerned about wear, take some advice from aviation: get an oil filter cutter and inspect the filter pleats after each oil change. Some kinds of wear (like camshaft & lifters) can release particles that are too big to appear in UOA but are captured by the filter.
 
if the oil is going above 250 run a 5w40 or at least one of the thicker 5w30's. I'd assume fuel dilution is mild with your climate and frequent oil changing.
Porsche A40 would be a bonus spec.

The difference between PP 5w30 and 5w30 euro L is almost 15% thicker.. I still think a 5w40 with Porsche A40 is more appropriate.

Thanks. Which common 5w40s have A40? Is there a list?
 
Thanks. Which common 5w40s have A40? Is there a list?
a40 is pretty much irrelevant, you can pass it and flunk out of 229.5. this is what you want to look for, any oil that has it will also get a40

 
mobil 1 5w30 esp

quaker state euro 5w40 SN+ (constantly out of stock)

pennzoil platinum euro 5w40 SP

Is this the correct QS? It's SP, not SN+?

Edit: I also read somewhere that QS might have more carbonization / valve deposits (IIRC) than M1, for example? M1 FS 5w30 / 5w40 also seems to meet 229.5?
 
MB 229.5 is also very stout spec.

M1 0w40 euro has both that and A40.
widely available at a good price (check walmart first)
 
MB 229.5 is also very stout spec.

M1 0w40 euro has both that and A40.
widely available at a good price (check walmart first)

The M1 0w40 euro has only SN, not SN+ / SP? Isn't SN+ important for GDI and avoiding LSPI and/or valve deposits?
 
Is this the correct QS? It's SP, not SN+?

Edit: I also read somewhere that QS might have more carbonization / valve deposits (IIRC) than M1, for example? M1 FS 5w30 / 5w40 also seems to meet 229.5?
Quaker State and PP are low calcium high mag mid-SAPS. this is why they get SN+ and now SP

they are definitely preferrable for turbo GDI engines over mobil 1 FS
 
a40 is pretty much irrelevant, you can pass it and flunk out of 229.5. this is what you want to look for, any oil that has it will also get a40

A40 is an extremely demanding spec that includes simulated lapping of the Nurburgring, the Mercedes approval does not. It's hardly irrelevant, in fact, I'd say it's quite germane to this discussion since we are specifically discussing track use.
 
The M1 0w40 euro has only SN, not SN+ / SP? Isn't SN+ important for GDI and avoiding LSPI and/or valve deposits?
no. M1 is formulated to mitigate lspi for well over 5 years.
your owners manual says api SN or better.
No worries about lspi with M1.

The QS uses a different additive strategy and meets API SP.. IIRC that might included lowered ZDDP. vs the M1 0w40.

image_2022-02-24_122604.jpg
 
The M1 0w40 euro has only SN, not SN+ / SP? Isn't SN+ important for GDI and avoiding LSPI and/or valve deposits?
SN Plus (and SP) includes a limit on calcium to reduce the propensity of LSPI. This is because the decrease of phosphorous beginning with SM inadvertently increased the likelihood as ZDDP is an LSPI quencher. The xW-40 oils are not impacted by the phosphorous limit, M1 0w-40 has 1,100ppm of phosphorous, vs the 800ppm limit for xw-30 and below.

See this paper from infineum (the additive company Mobil co-owns with Shell):

infineum said:
The most widely reported LSPI quencher additive type is zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). However, the phosphorus constraints imposed in lubricant specifications to protect three-way catalyst (TWC) equipment make it unrealistic to use high levels of ZDDP to reduce LSPI.

Infineum increased the phosphorus level from 0.05% to 0.19% in the test oil. ZDDP has an exponential decrease in LSPI activity - higher levels of ZDDP reduced over 90% of LSPI events compared to the number that occurred with the 0.05% ZDDP oil, confirming ZDDP as an LSPI quencher.
1645723664144.jpg
 
no. M1 is formulated to mitigate lspi for well over 5 years.
your owners manual says api SN or better.
No worries about lspi with M1.

Thanks. I just checked again - manual says SM or better, so in that case, it probably doesn't matter..
 
Don't for get the "L" in LSPI stands for Low, as in low RPM engine speed.

When you are doing a hot lap of Laguna Seca in your Twin-Turbo V6 Stinger, I think it's safe to assume your revs are up and you are safely out of LSPI territory.

BTW a Euro 5W40 or 0W40 oil with Porsche A40 and MB 229.5, runs about 1000 ppm zinc (ZDDP) which is about 200 ppm more than a regular ILSAC oil. ZDDP is a powerful LSPI quencher, as well as engine wear protection, as well as oil oxidation protection. That is what I would run.
 
Don't for get the "L" in LSPI stands for Low, as in low RPM engine speed.

When you are doing a hot lap of Laguna Seca in your Twin-Turbo V6 Stinger, I think it's safe to assume your revs are up and you are safely out of LSPI territory.

BTW a Euro 5W40 or 0W40 oil with Porsche A40 and MB 229.5, runs about 1000 ppm zinc (ZDDP) which is about 200 ppm more than a regular ILSAC oil. ZDDP is a powerful LSPI quencher, as well as engine wear protection, as well as oil oxidation protection. That is what I would run.

Thanks, that is true - revs will be up on the track. However, I don't want to mess things up when NOT on the track, and I'd like to avoid doing 2 oil changes (before AND after) if I don't need to - I just want something that will do 280F+ reliably while on the track, and swap it out afterwards, until I've been to the track again, which will likely be 1-2k miles. I know fresh oil is probably best, but I would imagine 1-2k miles (if that) wouldn't take that much life out of a quality oil rated for 10K or 20K (M1 5w30 ESP)

Right now, considering various flavors of M1 5w30 / 5w30ESP or 5w40 Euro. Also PP/PUP 5w40 or QSFS 5w40.

M1 seems to be the most easily available (Walmart / Costo and more)..
 
Follow-up thread here. Decided to go with track-mechanic's advice and run Motul 5w40 Sport.

 
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