Oil pressure too high?

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FCD

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When it gets close to 0c here when i start up my Capri the oil pressure gauge sits just over 3/4 of the way up, after a few minutes it stays about 3/4 of the way and makes it's way down to around 1/4 of the way up at hot idle, at 1000 rpm hot it's already half way up, i asked about this on another Euro-Ford related FB group and they all told me that's pretty high.
Post your opinions.
Engine has around 150k Miles on it and i'm running 20w50
 
Sounds normal, if it is a concern maybe go with a 15w50/15w40 for the colder months.
 
Look i'm not looking to change my oil for a diffeent viscosity, i'm gonna stick to Mobil 1 15w50 or VR1 20w50.
My engine burned too much oil on 10w40 and that's the lowest viscosity my Ford manual reccomends, ( i know folk will say it's outdated an yada yada yada...) i might consider it when i change the valve seals and pcv valve.
All i wanted to know if that kind of oil pressure sounded high to you
 
If the oil pressure needle is in the gauge range it's fine. I have built a lot of go-fast motors that will peg an OEM gauge at cold idle and at hot run from 2,000 RPM up. Factory gauges are very conservative, often topping at 50 psi or something.

And since you did not tell us what the factory range is (?), how can we make any real judgement...

Absolutely nothing to get concerned about. It's run how long this way? It's making no funny noises and still has some oil pressure at hot idle? Good to go
smile.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
i thought it was closer to -5 or -10c


-20*C and above would be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If the oil pressure needle is in the gauge range it's fine. I have built a lot of go-fast motors that will peg an OEM gauge at cold idle and at hot run from 2,000 RPM up. Factory gauges are very conservative, often topping at 50 psi or something.

And since you did not tell us what the factory range is (?), how can we make any real judgement...

Absolutely nothing to get concerned about. It's run how long this way? It's making no funny noises and still has some oil pressure at hot idle? Good to go
smile.gif


I think the gauge tops out in my car at around 60 psi
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If the oil pressure needle is in the gauge range it's fine. I have built a lot of go-fast motors that will peg an OEM gauge at cold idle and at hot run from 2,000 RPM up. Factory gauges are very conservative, often topping at 50 psi or something.

And since you did not tell us what the factory range is (?), how can we make any real judgement...

Absolutely nothing to get concerned about. It's run how long this way? It's making no funny noises and still has some oil pressure at hot idle? Good to go
smile.gif


I think the gauge tops out in my car at around 60 psi


Some oil pump relief valves do open up at 60-80 psi range. Your Ford could be lower, IDK.
 
These engines have a reputation for having problems with the hexagonal oil pump drive ( either rounding off or snapping in half ), if they have been "mistreated" if it wasn't so [censored] expensive and my engine didn't burn any oil i would be running Mobil 1 15w50!, however since temps rarely go below 5c here i won't have problems with 20w50... i also drive very carefully keeping the revs low as much as i can while the engine is cold
 
What's wrong with keeping it topped up on oil? So if you run 10w40, and it burns a bit more, what's wrong with that? I'd rather keep my engine happy and topped up on oil than choking on thick oil and not needing to top up so often.
 
Well it sure is running pretty sweetly "choking" on 20w50 compared to how it ran on 10w40
smile.gif
.
No but seriously do you think i'm harming my engine, i don't think i am, i think about 95% of these cars would have fried engines if that were the case...
 
No, you are not harming that engine. It has a gazzilion miles and the clearances are big enough to swallow the 20W-50 just fine.

For the cold flow resistance, I'd install a bigger than stock (usually longer) filter. The increase in media area will reduce cold flow resistance.

Ford has been using that hex drive since forever. There are about a bazzilion Fords out there with hex drives intact. What usually takes them out is not oil pressure (the pump relief valve will open before that), it's debris like little bits of metal that get caught in the pump... That's why it is really important in Fords to use a magnetic drain plug...

If you keep the cold engine revs in mind and don't red-line it from the driveway, it'll last a l-o-n-g time.

There are a lot fire trucks here in the USA that are based on Ford chassis and engines and they have hex drive pumps. They do go from stone cold to red-line and they do not fail. Most are running fleet oils like Delo400LE (15W-40). But they survive just fine.

This "known problem" is a result of another minor engine failure shedding a piece of gear or chain or whatever, small enough to get past the oil pick-up screen and momentarily locking up the pump. Bingo - there goes the hex shaft
frown.gif


I had it happen to me on a 1963 Merc S-55 with a 390 4-speed (back in the day). But I was young and street racing and I over-wound the motor and there went the shaft. I fixed it and never had the issue again.

And for the oil-flow nuts out there - I drove that car three blocks with no oil pressure to where I could fix it. It ran fine. It clicked and clacked and ran. That was well before synthetic oils. Just good old blue Sta-Lube 10W-40
smile.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
No, you are not harming that engine. It has a gazzilion miles and the clearances are big enough to swallow the 20W-50 just fine.

For the cold flow resistance, I'd install a bigger than stock (usually longer) filter. The increase in media area will reduce cold flow resistance.

Ford has been using that hex drive since forever. There are about a bazzilion Fords out there with hex drives intact. What usually takes them out is not oil pressure (the pump relief valve will open before that), it's debris like little bits of metal that get caught in the pump... That's why it is really important in Fords to use a magnetic drain plug...

If you keep the cold engine revs in mind and don't red-line it from the driveway, it'll last a l-o-n-g time.

There are a lot fire trucks here in the USA that are based on Ford chassis and engines and they have hex drive pumps. They do go from stone cold to red-line and they do not fail. Most are running fleet oils like Delo400LE (15W-40). But they survive just fine.

This "known problem" is a result of another minor engine failure shedding a piece of gear or chain or whatever, small enough to get past the oil pick-up screen and momentarily locking up the pump. Bingo - there goes the hex shaft
frown.gif


I had it happen to me on a 1963 Merc S-55 with a 390 4-speed (back in the day). But I was young and street racing and I over-wound the motor and there went the shaft. I fixed it and never had the issue again.

And for the oil-flow nuts out there - I drove that car three blocks with no oil pressure to where I could fix it. It ran fine. It clicked and clacked and ran. That was well before synthetic oils. Just good old blue Sta-Lube 10W-40
smile.gif



I agree
 
Dash gauges aren't exactly precision instruments.
Might be worthwhile to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge after all these years.
 
What makes you think the oil pressure is too high? Forget everything you read in the oil university.
 
I was just wondering if you guys think it's too high, or that it might indicate a problem.
I've always thought the more oil pressure the better but since reading BITOG threads i've realised you have to find a good compromise and balance between pressure and flow right?
 
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