Oil pressure or oil temp. gauge?

[Klutch9]

I'm going to install one of the two mentioned gauges in my car in the coming weeks. Which would be more advantageous to install? I'm thinking temperature... i've always wondered how much longer it takes the oil to reach operating temperature in a given engine than the coolant, and how hot exactly the oil gets. anything i should consider/think about? The car does have 170,000 miles on it, so i suppose a pressure gauge could be a nice piece of preventative maintenance too.

 

[JHZR2]

Pressure to tell you engine health, temperature to tell you when you can get on the throttle.

 

[beast3300]

Oil pressure

 

[mechtech2]

Temperature for sure.
This will tell you how the engine is running, and what oil you may need. Note higher highway temps with thicker oils, etc..
A pressure gauge will only show you when the engine is shot - too late. Otherwise, it just reads about the same - the same patterns.

I like ANY gauges, but temp for sure over pressure.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Temperature for sure.
This will tell you how the engine is running, and what oil you may need. Note higher highway temps with thicker oils, etc..
A pressure gauge will only show you when the engine is shot - too late. Otherwise, it just reads about the same - the same patterns.

I like ANY gauges, but temp for sure over pressure.


my thoughts exactly. a pressure gauge is just the same patterns over and over, while a temp gauge can show you just how your oil is reacting as far as idling temps, highway driving temps, etc. IMO it tells you a lot more, and can help you decide potentially what type of oil you need, or if you need an oil cooler based on your oil temps/driving style. a pressure gauge tells you once whether your engine is shot or not.

 

[expat]

Where will the Temperature be taken?
Are you prepared to fit a sensor into the oil pan?

 

[HTSS_TR]

If only one gauge can be installed then oil temp.

 

[morris]

i would put mechanical oil pressure gauge. but, do NOT use nylon tubing, do NOT use copper tubing, do NOT use hose. DO USE steel break line tubing, DO double flair each end just like doing breaks. you DONT want to hear the story that happened. also trans cooler lines should be steel as well.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: expat
Where will the Temperature be taken?
Are you prepared to fit a sensor into the oil pan?


I was planning on removing the dummy oil pressure light (which is in the head) and replacing it with an oil temp sensor. i know the oil pan would be MOST effective and accurate, but i dont see why placing it in the head wouldnt work.

 

[expat]

Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Originally Posted By: expat
Where will the Temperature be taken?
Are you prepared to fit a sensor into the oil pan?


I was planning on removing the dummy oil pressure light (which is in the head) and replacing it with an oil temp sensor. i know the oil pan would be MOST effective and accurate, but i dont see why placing it in the head wouldnt work.


The head is typically one of the Hotter places in the engine, It will almost certainly heat most quickly.
You will have 'misleading' information at the very least!

If that is your only option, go with the Oil pressure gauge. Mechanical is better than electronic.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Originally Posted By: expat
Where will the Temperature be taken?
Are you prepared to fit a sensor into the oil pan?


I was planning on removing the dummy oil pressure light (which is in the head) and replacing it with an oil temp sensor. i know the oil pan would be MOST effective and accurate, but i dont see why placing it in the head wouldnt work.


The head is typically one of the Hotter places in the engine, It will almost certainly heat most quickly.
You will have 'misleading' information at the very least!

If that is your only option, go with the Oil pressure gauge. Mechanical is better than electronic.


Keep in mind though that i have the 2.4l LD9 twin cam motor, which utilizes an "offenhauser" DOHC setup, which gives each cam its own valve cover, and creates a sizeable valley in between cams (like a v8 pushrod engine in between its valve covers). this "void" would assist in dissipating heat IMO between the cams and in the head. just a thought.

 

[expat]

The engine will reach 'optimum' temperature when ALL the engine is heat saturated ie. all parts have expanded or settled to create the 'normal' working tolerances. because the oil covers all moving parts of the engine (some much hotter tan others, and some heating much more quickly than others) the oil in the oil pan is taken as an overall average.
I know from my engine that after 3-5 minuets that head may be really quite hot (too hot to touch, and coolant temp reading normal) but oil in the pan may take 20 minutes or more.
Just think how long it takes to heat a big chunk of steel like a crank (that doesn't feel combustion heat)!

 

[mechtech2]

You can 'T' a fitting and use both the light ans temp sensor.
[Or two of whatever you want]
Some cars need the stock stuff so the fuel pump will work! Nice going, jerks!

Oil flow is fast, and we should get legitimate readings from any oil pressure location. Pan temps may be lower or higher, depending.

 

[expat]

Is an Oil temp sensing dipstick an option?

 

[JHZR2]

I have an oil temp sensor in the sump of my 91 318 and don't think it gives the reading that really matters - how hot it is getting flowing through the engine.

IMO that bulk temperature reads constantly low.

 

[expat]

Oil Temps will vary in different parts of the engine. Oil that is aimed at the underside of a piston, around exhaust guides, or turbo bearings may reach temps considerably higher than oil that is directed to the cranks main bearings, for instance. It might be nice to have many sensors reading at ALL these different areas, OR we just rely on the manufacturer to design the engine so that ALL areas get the 'required' oil flow.
So what does an (in Pan) Oil temp sensor tell us?
Oil temps will rise, then slowly level out. When they level out (during normal driving) we can assume that the engine has reached the point of 'heat saturation' (all areas are a normal temp levels)
If during hard driving we see temps rise much above the 'Normal' We can assume that some areas may be reaching a point where overheating may occur.
Alternatively on a winters day, we may see that even after several miles our oil is still below optimal, and it may not be desirable to 'Push' our engine more that we might do if the engine was fully warm (saturated)
Oil in the pan gives an 'overview' of the temperature of the whole engine.
Temps taken at any place else (especially on a 'T' where flow may be non existent may give misleading information (that may be worse than NO information at all!)