Oil pan drain bolt or oil pan threads stipped?

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Either the bolt is stripped or the pan itself. Can you tell by looking at the bolt in the pic?
If it's the bolt can I just replace it or do I need to do anything with the oil pan threads?
I think it came from over tightening, as I had to tighten that thing with a breaker bar or it would leak.
Thanks!
oil%20pan%20drain%20bolt.jpg
 
We cannot tell if the pan is stripped by looking at the bolt. Get a new bolt WITH a washer and see if it threads in and tightens, don't use a breaker bar. If it does not tighten, then you have your answer.
 
Breaker bar? Seriously, if it doesn't stop leaking with a normal torque level, look into why, don't add torque.

I have no idea if the internal threads are good or not, only an inspection could tell.
 
Instead of tightening it with a breaker bar, you need a washer.

The threads do not look broken at the tip of the bolt. it could be a magnet there.

The lines around the top do not match the thread of the bolt.
 
The oil pan drain hole threads on our Volvo were getting deformed from years of over-tightening. After pricing an oil pan and the difficulty of installing one, we chose a different solution. We determined the size and threading of the drain bolt and purchased a thread chaser to clean and re-size the drain hole threads. We then installed a Fumoto drain valve (with extension) with some thread locker paste on the threads. It's been on a week with no leaking, and hopefully the valve will never have to be removed.

There are other solutions to stripped drain threads, too. Check out Youtube for examples.
 
You can buy an over size drain plug that cuts its own threads. Just thread it into the hole like you normally would and it'll cut it's own threads. After it cuts its own threads, then it'll screw in easy like a regular drain plug.
 
Go get a tap/die set and clean up the threads in the pan. Then install a new drain plug. Try that first before going to drastic measures.
 
There is, ahhhh, a GASKET for that plug which Toyota sells ten for a buck. It works with a slight crush, and a 3/8 drive torque wrench which Harbor Fright sells for ten bucks would be a GOOD idea. Toyota (and others) make their plugs out of a material softer than the pan threads for a good reason. The flats will get chewed up before the pan threads, unless the Vice Grip theory is in use.
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
There is, ahhhh, a GASKET for that plug which Toyota sells ten for a buck. It works with a slight crush, and a 3/8 drive torque wrench which Harbor Fright sells for ten bucks would be a GOOD idea. Toyota (and others) make their plugs out of a material softer than the pan threads for a good reason. The flats will get chewed up before the pan threads, unless the Vice Grip theory is in use.


^^ This...you need the crush washer. Now you need a new drain bolt and probably a new oil pan. You don't need to use a torque wrench. All 7 of my Toyotas would seal fine with just a snug on a box end 14mm wrench.

Look here for them: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Drain-Gaskets-90430-12031/dp/B007OW6MD6
 
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Thanks for all the replies. It turns out it was the drain bolt. I probably should have mentioned that when I unscrewed the bolt there was a lot of loose thread circling around the bolt. That was probably at the top of the bolt which wasn't magnetic. Oddly enough when I brought the bolt into Napa it fit into their thread tester/fitter but wouldn't fit snug in the pan. The new bolt came with a plastic gasket, we'll see how that holds.
 
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