I'm not going to light it lol.
Oil on dipstick smells a little like Gasoline
- Thread starter asharris7
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: asharris7
I'm not going to light it lol.
At this point I don't know if Falken was serious or pulling your leg...I mean everyone knows petroleum whether in oil or gasoline is flammable?! right?
That was one of those 'who got the crackpipe' moments right there...
I'm not going to light it lol.
At this point I don't know if Falken was serious or pulling your leg...I mean everyone knows petroleum whether in oil or gasoline is flammable?! right?
That was one of those 'who got the crackpipe' moments right there...
Who knows if he was joking, maybe he doesn't have any eyebrows. All I know is when I was in the military we used to put our cigs out in diesel fuel. Too high of a flash point. It was pretty neat.
Haha no guys, lighting the dipstick is a valid test. I wasn't joking.
Edit: You really have to try to light it where there is no wind, like in a garage. If it lights it isn't going to be a massive flame.
Edit: You really have to try to light it where there is no wind, like in a garage. If it lights it isn't going to be a massive flame.
Last edited:
All engines will have some blow-by. In summer this will normally be evacuated by the PCV system and be less noticeable.
But in winter it will condense some and may be seen around the oil filler area of some cars if separated from the engine where it is much cooler.
It will appear as a creamy foam. A mixture of oil, gas, and water vapor.
My 1969 Alfa Romeo had it show up in winter inside the cold air box where the PCV system dumped.
Mazda rotaries are examples of both these problems. The rotor side seals are singular as many piston engines have 2 to 3 piston rings. Thus our oil always smells of gas.
Our oil filler is about 7" higher than the block and in winter will have the sludge there.
That is why those not on a tight budget will change their oil and filter every 3000
miles.
But in winter it will condense some and may be seen around the oil filler area of some cars if separated from the engine where it is much cooler.
It will appear as a creamy foam. A mixture of oil, gas, and water vapor.
My 1969 Alfa Romeo had it show up in winter inside the cold air box where the PCV system dumped.
Mazda rotaries are examples of both these problems. The rotor side seals are singular as many piston engines have 2 to 3 piston rings. Thus our oil always smells of gas.
Our oil filler is about 7" higher than the block and in winter will have the sludge there.
That is why those not on a tight budget will change their oil and filter every 3000
miles.
Since your Honda VCM is a 2011, it has the latest Honda "fix" of improved oil control (piston) rings and moly impregnated piston skirts that gradually deliver a prolonged, elevated moly content to the oil. I have the same engine in my Accord. Because of reported problems with VCM, in particular oil consumption, I have watched oil levels closely and done UOAs at factory prescribed OCIs (MM=15% which has been 6300 and 6400 for me with 95% city driving). I got 0.8% fuel in the first change of the FF and only a trace in the second change. Based on the improvements my engine is showing as it breaks in, I am confident in extending the oil change to 0% MM which should be about 8,000 miles. I have used Honda Genuine Full Syn so far and it's proven to be a good oil. Since I'm out of that oil, I'm thinking TGMO SM for the next change to give it another moly bath the next 8,000 miles.
The point is, I had severe reservations about this engine going into the purchase but the DD insisted she had to have an Accord. I have monitored oil consumption closely and tested at the first two OCs. The engine burned only 1/3 qt during the first OCI and zero during the second. I have proven that this particular engine is sound, I understand what it is doing and I am certain of the optimal mileage interval. This is why and how to use UOAs in a new engine to confirm a sound break in and establish a proper OCI.
Essentially, what I've proven is that Honda knows what it is doing (duh). So, for 2011 and later VCMs, I can recommend that you follow the factory recommendations (change according to MM) with the proviso that you check engine oil level frequently (once per week until you establish confidence that you can check it less frequently). Use a high quality 0W-20 full synthetic and you will be fine.
The point is, I had severe reservations about this engine going into the purchase but the DD insisted she had to have an Accord. I have monitored oil consumption closely and tested at the first two OCs. The engine burned only 1/3 qt during the first OCI and zero during the second. I have proven that this particular engine is sound, I understand what it is doing and I am certain of the optimal mileage interval. This is why and how to use UOAs in a new engine to confirm a sound break in and establish a proper OCI.
Essentially, what I've proven is that Honda knows what it is doing (duh). So, for 2011 and later VCMs, I can recommend that you follow the factory recommendations (change according to MM) with the proviso that you check engine oil level frequently (once per week until you establish confidence that you can check it less frequently). Use a high quality 0W-20 full synthetic and you will be fine.
Last edited:
I am going to try the dipstick test right now.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Falken
Haha no guys, lighting the dipstick is a valid test. I wasn't joking.
Edit: You really have to try to light it where there is no wind, like in a garage. If it lights it isn't going to be a massive flame.
Are you tellinng me I can light my dipstick on fire????
Haha no guys, lighting the dipstick is a valid test. I wasn't joking.
Edit: You really have to try to light it where there is no wind, like in a garage. If it lights it isn't going to be a massive flame.
Are you tellinng me I can light my dipstick on fire????
.. because, if I can, I will....
I must now wait for the car to get home. I am going to light the dipstick on FIRE
I must now wait for the car to get home. I am going to light the dipstick on FIRE
I just tryed to lite my dipstick with a lighter and it would not lite. I also dunked a stick in my used oil I just changed and it would not catch fire. My oil seems to bee good.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
