I was told once that synthetic oil would "cling" to engine parts longer then a conventional. The idea being that when a car sat overnight, a day, a week, the synthetic would be more apt to provide protection on a cold start then a conventional. Thoughts?
Oil myth?
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Mostly false. In fact, many types of synthetic oils have LESS cling than mineral oils.
There are some synthetics that cling better. ALL oil are formulated with polar additives that cling to metal anyway.
Base oil has little to do with preventing wear.
There are some synthetics that cling better. ALL oil are formulated with polar additives that cling to metal anyway.
Base oil has little to do with preventing wear.
Ester oils tend to have an attraction to the metal, but cling is a bit of an oversimplification.
Kestas
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I heard this myth, but in reverse... that synthetic oils are shed from the surfaces quicker than regular oil.
Do opposite myths cancel each other out?
Isn't this the reason why Auto-RX recommends a non-synthetic oil for the rinse phase of their product?
From the sludge removal application guidelines:
"Most synthetic oils have a complex additive package that holds oil to metal, which also applies to sludge and therefore hinders the safe removal of sludge."
From the sludge removal application guidelines:
"Most synthetic oils have a complex additive package that holds oil to metal, which also applies to sludge and therefore hinders the safe removal of sludge."
I believed this myth too!
A bit like those tests where they coat some metal in synthetic, but remove the pool of oil ,but it is still protected.
Of course, I suppose with some of the additives today like Moly, all oils actually do probably coat some protection on bits that remain even when the oil drips down.
I think it's also impossible to imagine that a bit of any oil doesn't remain on the metals bit, just not more with synthetic as the myth suggests.
Just imagine if you open up the top of an engine, there is bits of oil. You can also see coating of oil when you take an oil filler cap off and look into the engine, again, just not more with synthetic as the myth suggests.
A bit like those tests where they coat some metal in synthetic, but remove the pool of oil ,but it is still protected.
Of course, I suppose with some of the additives today like Moly, all oils actually do probably coat some protection on bits that remain even when the oil drips down.
I think it's also impossible to imagine that a bit of any oil doesn't remain on the metals bit, just not more with synthetic as the myth suggests.
Just imagine if you open up the top of an engine, there is bits of oil. You can also see coating of oil when you take an oil filler cap off and look into the engine, again, just not more with synthetic as the myth suggests.
Originally Posted By: shadow7
Yea i thought Synthetic oil coats the engine better after it stopped running...
Odd.......this is what I've heard tooo....my brother was trying to "convince" me to switch to synthetic on my previous car, he was telling me the synthetic oil "sticks"/adheres to the metal "better" than conventional, so it would provide more "protection" at cold starts, since it would have a "thin" layer of oil on the metal/moving parts at cold-start.....
The way he explained it was like pancake/waffle syrup
Obviously the "consitency" would vary from oil to oil, and from one weight to the next
I always read about this when I was researching Auto-RX.....they claim the reasoning for not using synthetic oils while doing a ARX cleaning phase, is synthetics will cause the debris to "stick around" rather than be flushed away....
Basically, it sounds like synthetics are able to "hold in" or "suspend" the dirt/debris longer/better than conventionals...?
One of those "questionable" _myths_ that could be considered "good" and bad
Personally, I'd rather have my debris stuck in the filter, rather than suspended in the oil, that will be repeatedly slamming against metal/pistons/etc
Yea i thought Synthetic oil coats the engine better after it stopped running...
Odd.......this is what I've heard tooo....my brother was trying to "convince" me to switch to synthetic on my previous car, he was telling me the synthetic oil "sticks"/adheres to the metal "better" than conventional, so it would provide more "protection" at cold starts, since it would have a "thin" layer of oil on the metal/moving parts at cold-start.....
The way he explained it was like pancake/waffle syrup
Obviously the "consitency" would vary from oil to oil, and from one weight to the next
I always read about this when I was researching Auto-RX.....they claim the reasoning for not using synthetic oils while doing a ARX cleaning phase, is synthetics will cause the debris to "stick around" rather than be flushed away....
Basically, it sounds like synthetics are able to "hold in" or "suspend" the dirt/debris longer/better than conventionals...?
One of those "questionable" _myths_ that could be considered "good" and bad
Personally, I'd rather have my debris stuck in the filter, rather than suspended in the oil, that will be repeatedly slamming against metal/pistons/etc
If one had an oil that significantly "stuck" to metal as the myth is implying, then the base oil would be so polar as to interfere with the AW and probably anti-corrosion aspects of the add pack.
Not good.
Not good.
Try this the other way. Put some oil on some engine part, heat it up and try to wipe if off. Oil, synthetic or not does a pretty good job of lubricating an engine. This kind of myth is not useful in making a choice for your car or truck.
We have generator sets in the worst possible cold conditions you can imagine and with modern oils and lubrication systems we don't have too many problems. If the oil will flow the whole thing will work. In the old days we pumped gasoline into the crankcase before starting and as scary as that sounds it worked great. I'm talking radial airplane engines out in the cold with wind chill temps below -50F. We'd use propane torches to warm things up and hope there were not gasoline vapors to light off. If there were lubrication problems we would see them pretty quickly.
We should stick to truly scientific myths, like synthetic oil causes leaks and will run out of your engine (lol). Or Pennzoil causes white milky sludge in an engine (lol, again).
We have generator sets in the worst possible cold conditions you can imagine and with modern oils and lubrication systems we don't have too many problems. If the oil will flow the whole thing will work. In the old days we pumped gasoline into the crankcase before starting and as scary as that sounds it worked great. I'm talking radial airplane engines out in the cold with wind chill temps below -50F. We'd use propane torches to warm things up and hope there were not gasoline vapors to light off. If there were lubrication problems we would see them pretty quickly.
We should stick to truly scientific myths, like synthetic oil causes leaks and will run out of your engine (lol). Or Pennzoil causes white milky sludge in an engine (lol, again).
The capillary ability of oil, either type, would likely offset any drain-off.
My 2¢
My 2¢
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Try this the other way. Put some oil on some engine part, heat it up and try to wipe if off. Oil, synthetic or not does a pretty good job of lubricating an engine. This kind of myth is not useful in making a choice for your car or truck.
We have generator sets in the worst possible cold conditions you can imagine and with modern oils and lubrication systems we don't have too many problems. If the oil will flow the whole thing will work. In the old days we pumped gasoline into the crankcase before starting and as scary as that sounds it worked great. I'm talking radial airplane engines out in the cold with wind chill temps below -50F. We'd use propane torches to warm things up and hope there were not gasoline vapors to light off. If there were lubrication problems we would see them pretty quickly.
We should stick to truly scientific myths, like synthetic oil causes leaks and will run out of your engine (lol). Or Pennzoil causes white milky sludge in an engine (lol, again).
The P47 manual [WWII fighter airplane] says gas should be mixed with the oil for cold starting.
So does the 1938 Buick manual!
Try this the other way. Put some oil on some engine part, heat it up and try to wipe if off. Oil, synthetic or not does a pretty good job of lubricating an engine. This kind of myth is not useful in making a choice for your car or truck.
We have generator sets in the worst possible cold conditions you can imagine and with modern oils and lubrication systems we don't have too many problems. If the oil will flow the whole thing will work. In the old days we pumped gasoline into the crankcase before starting and as scary as that sounds it worked great. I'm talking radial airplane engines out in the cold with wind chill temps below -50F. We'd use propane torches to warm things up and hope there were not gasoline vapors to light off. If there were lubrication problems we would see them pretty quickly.
We should stick to truly scientific myths, like synthetic oil causes leaks and will run out of your engine (lol). Or Pennzoil causes white milky sludge in an engine (lol, again).
The P47 manual [WWII fighter airplane] says gas should be mixed with the oil for cold starting.
So does the 1938 Buick manual!
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