oil light came on after gasket change Jetta GLS

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Not sure if this is an appropriate are to post this but I'm desperate for help and advice.

Today I changed it the oil cooler gasket on my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0L. After putting everything back together I refilled the oil checked the levels and then drive it around the block. I checked for leaks after and didn't see any issues. I just got done driving to work, 15 minutes freeway driving, and about 14 minutes in the oil light came on. I got to work about a quarter mile from when it started turned it off and popped the hood. There were no oil leaks that I could see and the coolant level is exactly the same. I checked the oil level and it is significantly over filled. The oil is clear but it seems a bit more "liquidy" than I would expect.

The oil light that is on I know indicated an oil pressure issue. Everything I've seen says it is an indicator of low oil pressure. I am wondering if it can also indicate high oil pressure from it bring over filled? I am capable I under the hood but dont have a ton of experience. Would my best plan of attack be to drain some oil to get it to the right level then test drive it to see if the light is off? I also read that it could be a problem with the oil pump? If it was that how would I know?

Additional notes: the coolant level was unchanged, the engine temp from the dash gage was normal(straight up), the car was driving normal as well. I am at a loss and I hope it is all from me being dumb and over filling my oil.

Thanks for the advice. I'm off work in 3 hours and really don't want to leave my car here or your it home.
 
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need more details

but if the oil is too full it can foam up so I guess its possible.
 
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Originally Posted By: NickPDX
I checked the oil level and it is significantly over filled.


Drain the excess oil ASAP before it damages your engine/seals.
 
Oil light came on while driving on the freeway ... 65+ mph. Planning on draining excess before driving again for sure but not sure if that would have caused the oil pressure light to come on. If it is a problem with the oil pump it would have caused the engine to get hotter than normal right?
 
The gasket is between the oil cooler and the oil transfer unit. The oil cooler is what the filter attaches to, I believe the oil flows through it and there is coolant pumped through as well separate from the oil. The gasket had a crack which caused oil to dump out while the car was in. After putting a new gasket in there was no oil leaking out.
 
Originally Posted By: NickPDX
Oil light came on while driving on the freeway ... 65+ mph. Planning on draining excess before driving again for sure but not sure if that would have caused the oil pressure light to come on. If it is a problem with the oil pump it would have caused the engine to get hotter than normal right?


Too much oil can cause aeration, and since air doesn't pump and pressurize like oil, your pressure can drop.

f you're confident coolant is not a factor, drain the excess lube out and test drive again. Report back with the results.
 
Well that was a long night. I drained some oil out and got it right in the middle of the range on the dip stick. Turned it on drove it around the parking lot and everything seemed fine. Started to head home and just after I got on the freeway the oil pressure light came on again. This time before I could even get to the next off ramp it the car died on me. I checked oil levels everything was the same, I checked coolant levels everything is the same, and the car wasn't overheating based off of the temperature gauge on the inside. I got it towed home last night. Not really sure where to start with figuring out what is wrong at this point. Kind of assuming it is the oil pump but I don't know how to test it.
 
I', pretty sure that your car has a ECU that will shut down the engine when it detects a lack of oil pressure, first you'll get the warning lamp so you can pull over then the car will shut itself down to prevent destruction of the engine. My guess is that you have a defective or failing oil pressure sensor, it is somewhat common on cars this age, also check to see if oil is weeping or leaking from the inside part (electrical connector) of the sensor, pull back the rubber boots and look for oil, if you find it, the sensor has failed and needs to be replaced, I believe their should be two of them on your car one attached to the oil filter connection around where the cooler is, and the other at the top right of the
cylinder head. Check both for leaks.
 
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Lube%20System.JPG


In the image included ... I replaced number 16, the o-ring. It had a two cracks and oil was spitting out of it when I was driving. By the time I realized the issue oil had been spraying out and hitting the radiator fan and spraying out over everything under the hood. So I am sure that oil got all over every part you can see. As for doing work near the oil pressure switch it is just above the oil cooler and o-ring that I had to remove so I was working close to that space.
 
OK, I just got done changing out the oil and oil filter. I also replaced the oil pressure sensor. I then drove it around the block for 2 miles and right at 2 miles the oil light came on again. The engine did seem to sound louder than normal and it sounded like it does when the oil level is low. I checked the dip stick after I got back home and the levels are all good and the oil looks fine.

At think point I am wondering if it is the oil pump. To check the oil pump somebody suggested to back the oil filter off a couple turns and turn the car on for a couple seconds. If oil spills out that would indicate that the pump is working, if oil is not spilling out then the pump is shot. Any thoughts on this method?

Any other thoughts on what it could be? One strange thing to me is that the temperature is staying fine right in the middle. If oil isn't pumping to the engine properly I would think that it would be getting hotter than normal, correct?
 
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One other observation, our cars usually have plastic dip stick tube inserts that can crack crumble and enter the sump which could possibly partially block the oil pump screen. Have you checked that?
 
The car wouldn't necessarily overheat from the oil system not being pressurized. It would if there was an undue amount of friction, but your not letting it get to that point. (props)

The problems your seeing now are either a result of the repair you did, or they're not and are completely unrelated.

If repair was the cause, then I'd think about what it would look like if something got into the system that wasn't supposed to be there, which could in turn foul the oil pump or any number of things. All I can think of besides oil pump is a blocked journal or kinked hose. (if there are any hoses transporting oil outside the block).

If it's not a result of the repair, then I'd think about fair wear and tear for an engine of this age.

I might start thinking about scheduling a major overhaul. Timing belt and tensioners, water pump, oil pump, suspect hoses, ect.

Did you change the weight of the oil you use by any chance?
Trouble shooting a problem like this will test ya.
 
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I put in a call to the old country and asked what it might be. I got two answers.
1. Is there air in the system? I think this is a hold over from the last century. Still, I would have never thought of it.
2. The cars worn out, try a heavier oil and see what happens.

Hope this helps.
 
Let's start from the very beginning:

- before you changed the oil cooler o-ring was the engine operating normal?

- Was the reason that you changed the o-ring solely because of oil leakage?

- Did you in any way damage the wiring to the oil pressure switch?
 
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