I have a 07 fusion 2.3 auto. If you could choose any oil that AZ sells which would you put in it. mobil1 5-20? Syntec 5-20, PP 5-20 other? price is not an issue. the car has 500 miles now. at 75mph it turns about 2700 rpm which is were I do most of my driving. Also would you go the full 5k on factory fill? I am leaning toward 2.5k and switch to full syn..
Oil for New Fusion
- Thread starter stroked93
- Start date
- Status
During the warrenty peroid I think I would stay with Motorcraft Syn-Blend 5w-20 & 5K OCI's. I am using that in 2 of my Ford products now & am very happy with it.
BTW, how do you like the Fusion? Is it a Duratec? Good luck.
BTW, how do you like the Fusion? Is it a Duratec? Good luck.
Cheapest 5w20 SM/GF-4 oil, cheapest filter, changed every 5k. The synthetics are a waste of money...
While under warranty you shouldn't have any problems with an API Certified oil. I chose Royal Purple 5w-20 because it is API Certified and I prefer synthetics (How many other 5w-20s group IV/V synthetics are out there, as I understand it, are API Certified?) and I am quite confident that no one/corporation can deny my warranty because I didn't use an API Certified oil. I don’t know if they can deny my warranty if I used a non-API Oil, but, if they want to push the situation I’m sure they can afford more lawyers.
Since you ask: if I had a nice new Ford under warranty, I'd use nothing but Motorcraft oil & Motorcraft filters. I might even have the oil changes done at the dealership.
Even on my 05 Grand Caravan I'm thinking about using the 5W20 syn blend and motorcraft filters. Right now I have a pure one filter and PP oil that I used until finding out from Ford if the 5W20 blend meets Dodge's mat std MS-6395. I got a email back that said it did yesterday. Since it is under a extended aftermarket warranty I might even start going to the Ford dealer and have them do it. Just don't trust anybody though for puting the right oil and amount in or knowing how to put the drain plug in right. Feel better doing it myself.
Motorcraft 5W-20 + a Motorcraft oil filter.
or, if you're lucky enough to find it...
TropArtic 5W-20* + a Purolator PureONE (MICRONIC media) or American Bosch Premium (Filtech media) oil filter.
*ConocoPhillips lists that viscosity range in their product data sheets, but I've only come across it ONCE - and that was pre-Katrina when Dollar Tree stores carried the brand. (And, yes, it was the then recently introduced API SM synthetic-blend version. If I'd had half a brain, I would've cleaned the nearby stores out of the stuff and put it up on eBay for all you BITOG 5W-20 fans to fight over...
)
or, if you're lucky enough to find it...
TropArtic 5W-20* + a Purolator PureONE (MICRONIC media) or American Bosch Premium (Filtech media) oil filter.
*ConocoPhillips lists that viscosity range in their product data sheets, but I've only come across it ONCE - and that was pre-Katrina when Dollar Tree stores carried the brand. (And, yes, it was the then recently introduced API SM synthetic-blend version. If I'd had half a brain, I would've cleaned the nearby stores out of the stuff and put it up on eBay for all you BITOG 5W-20 fans to fight over...
I own an '05 Mazda3 2.3L. A Mazda3 board member ran RP 5w20 in his 2.3L and had less than desirable results. He's also run other oils with UOA's that performed better in this engine.
I just returned a spectactular UOA on Pennzoil Platinum run for 7500K miles on the 2.3L engine. It'd say it's a pretty good fit for the 2.3L engine especially when it's had for $1.99/qt.
I have the same motor in my Mariner. At 1200 miles, I did the first OCI with MC 5w20 & MC filter. I plan to do the next OCI in another 3000 miles -- probably MC again. The 3rd OCI will be in another 4000 miles, then I will probably switch to the Q-power I bought on sale (more torque - R R R), and use Napa Gold for 5k miles. Some say Synthetic is a waste for only 5k miles, but I bought all my PP and Q-power at prices near or lower than dino.
Oh yeah -- 8 oz of SLOB at every OCI...
Oh yeah -- 8 oz of SLOB at every OCI...
Last edited:
R-E-A-D your aftermarket extended service plan (only the manufacturer can issue a warranty) very carefully - some have little gotchas* such as requiring all service not only be done by a franchised dealership's service department, but the selling dealership's service department. (Guess what the selling dealerships think of these extended service plans...
*Under Moss-Magnuson, automakers can NOT require you to use their brand parts and fluids (as your sole remedy to maintain automaker warranty claim rights) from the dealerships if they, their licensed equivalents, or other brand equivalents are available through normal retail channels. (In other words, it's OK to use Mercon V blended and bottled by Valvoline - you do not have to use Motorcraft Mercon V, but if you choose to, you don't have to buy it from a Ford dealership's parts department. But, if you were to use Dexron in a Ford that specified Mercon V and developed tranny trouble, you'd be SOL.) However, Moss-Magneson does NOT apply in the case of extended service contracts - which are really a service insurance policy that only fall under state insurance department provisions. If you have an opt-out/refund clause, you might look into exercising it. Consumer Reports exposed an alarming tendency of these companies to use fictitious names for specific years and then filing bankruptcy at about the point where their underwriters expect accelerated claims. Once clear of their anticipated monetary liabilities, they re-incorporate under another name and the game begins anew. (Gawd! - how I wish I'd thought of that racket, er, "business model" first...
Uh, no - I trust you meant that in jest.
Quote:
Uh, no - I trust you meant that in jest.
Yes -- I was joking. But I think I made a good purchase at around $1.50/Qt. (if I get my reabate)
Ive got a 3.0 Mazda 6 and drained the factory fill at 750 miles and replaced that w/ M1 5w/20 and an M1 EP filter, I have experienced slightly better fuel economy as well - the dealership advised as long as 5w/20 oil is used the warranty is unaffected. The factory fill is Motorcraft 5/20 blend which is a fine oil but if you want to go full syn M1 or PP works well w/ the 2.3 - I am going to switch our 06 Mazda 3 2.0 over to PP 5w20 this afternoon, was on sale locally.
Any 5w20 oil will work well. They are all high quality oils, usually synth blends, because of the requirements of the GF4 and Fords double sequence testing.
There are plenty of MZR UOAs. I really don't think you can make a mistake on 5w20 oil brand.
Don't use the Pureone oil filter. Any other filter should work well.
If you want synthetic oil, ANY of the synthetic oils are excellent. Since noone real knows whats in the bottle, look for the rebates and sales and don't get brand brainwashed. Syntec and q-torque currently have rebates. And, I recently bought some pennzoil/qstate synthetic at advance oil with the buy 1 get 1 free deal.
Since the engine has balance shafts spinning twice the engine speed and OHCs, I use and will recommend better flowing synthetics for this engine, especially for colder climates.
There are plenty of MZR UOAs. I really don't think you can make a mistake on 5w20 oil brand.
Don't use the Pureone oil filter. Any other filter should work well.
If you want synthetic oil, ANY of the synthetic oils are excellent. Since noone real knows whats in the bottle, look for the rebates and sales and don't get brand brainwashed. Syntec and q-torque currently have rebates. And, I recently bought some pennzoil/qstate synthetic at advance oil with the buy 1 get 1 free deal.
Since the engine has balance shafts spinning twice the engine speed and OHCs, I use and will recommend better flowing synthetics for this engine, especially for colder climates.
If you go to your local dry-cleaners, and hang-out there, a cute (nut desperate) woman will come up and not only tell you what oil to use, she wil pay for it!
I guess the point of the post was really what is the best oil available at Autozone or Advance for this car. there is no cost as this is my fleet vehicle. I will have to drive the car to 160-175k miles so I want it in good mechanical condition. I can go longer oci's and run synthetic and save over 5k dino changes as I do maintanance myself.
- Status