Low tension rings (by themselves) won't cause a quart of oil consumption every 150 miles. Something is wrong. Give us some more information about the engine. I'd rather find the cause of your oil vanishing problem than recommend you an oil.
How long ago was it built and how many miles on it since the build?
How is it typically used? (low rpm cruise, stop and go city traffic, drag racing, towing, garage ornament, etc...)
What temp thermostat are you using and what's the typical operating temp?
What's your static and dynamic compression?
Rod and main bearing clearance?
What camshaft exactly?
What oil pump?
Perhaps most importantly... how was the break-in done?
I've seen this once before with a .030" over 454 BBC (460ci) where the "builder" put cheap slugs in it that were .020" shorter than stock and with a -12cc dish. (may have been -15cc, not sure) They were .040-.045" in the hole with a .040" gasket and the typical massive 119 cc combustion chambers of smog era BBC iron heads. The static compression was in the toilet at barely >7:1. To make matters worse, it had a rather hefty cam in it that was ~235-240 @ .050" with a DCR down ~5.5:1. This engine didn't want to idle below 1000 rpm and was an unresponsive turd. He had a similar issue with oil disappearing though it was every 300-400 miles, not 150. When the oil pan was pulled to start investigating, you couldn't see the pistons in the bores due to a black tar (sludge) coating the bottom of the pistons. It was bad enough that you had to scrape it out of the way to see the lock rings on the pins. Running the DCR so low and lugging it caused very high piston temperatures which coked the cheap oil he was using. Same as you, no blue smoke, no oil on the plugs, no external leaks, etc... it was all evaporating and coking around the pistons and cylinder walls. As you probably imagine, this engine had a bad overheating problem as well.