No, have friends that have SWC. Visibility sucks, agree with Zora on that. Too many parts are first model one-of-a-kind. Hard and expensive to replace. Rear ends and trannys are weaker than later years. No thanks, rather have my 65.
Oil for my 496 BBC
- Thread starter 496BBC
- Start date
Well, compression rings don't scrap oil off the cylinder walls, that is the oil rings job to do that. If you don't want to fix it then I would find a tractor supply and buy Rotella T4 in 5 gallon buckets.
Awesome and stunning. From my experience with BBC valve cover / Breathers is where I would first start looking. I was given some cool looking valve covers and tried them , there was an instant oil consumption problem.
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Back to the topic of engine..
I'm not up on BBC valve covers, but those look like they have the potential at least to be low cost valve covers without baffles. OP pull the breather and PCV and look with a flashlight to see if they have metal baffles in them, if they don't buy (and install) some that do...
I'm not up on BBC valve covers, but those look like they have the potential at least to be low cost valve covers without baffles. OP pull the breather and PCV and look with a flashlight to see if they have metal baffles in them, if they don't buy (and install) some that do...
Will do, sir. I’m hoping that is where my problem lies, or at least a large part of it.
What's the pan capacity 5qt? ( 65 corvette) Dump the oil and put in a pint under the pan capacity then look at your dipstick, This is your new "FULL" line.
Man I would sell that lump and put a hot 327 in there.
BBC and Vette = nope.
BBC are for B and C bodies. thus the Big B & C
good luck and have fun!
Unfortunately, it was discontinued around a decade ago. Any remaining would have been blended before then.
Yes. Although I don't recall exactly when it was, I distinctly remember the memo announcing it. Any remaining out there is old stock.
Check the link. It says unavailable.
Let us know how you make out. There is a guy that lives up the road from me with a late 50’s Chevy with a 496 in it. It runs 10.20’s all day at the local 1/4 mile track and he has the trophies to prove it.
Yes but that is not the only like I found. Why would someone carry that on their active website for 10 years after it went out of production?
This was my first post since joining this forum and I’m so pleased with the friendly responses. Everyone has been so helpful and I’m anxious to try some of the recommended fixes. Also appreciate the nice things you all said about my car.
Merry Christmas to you all!
Merry Christmas to you all!
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 806
I would look at the intake gaskets......if the plugs are clean and it aint in the radiator..........you sure it is a quart every 150 miles? that is a bunch fella, seems like you would be mistaken for a diesel rolling coal...........**** thats is a bunch, my 454 in my Suburban drinks a quart every 3000.=, with 150k on it.
You'd have to ask them.
I spent 32 years selling Pennzoil, 18 selling QS, and 13 selling Shell. The last two brands on the occasions of mergers and buyouts. I remember 25W-50 being introduced and discontinued during my tenure.
15w40 and send it. no need for further worry
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- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 806
i agree......if the thing is running good, run it until it dies.........plus, will always have good fresh oil it it i suppose
I apologize for this late reply. You have a beautiful car with good engine components. Having the car mark your driveway every time you drive it isn't going to work. I disagree with many of the replies as this isn't a junk car that you're trying to "poor boy" some extra life out of. My thoughts are as follows:
Don't fill the engine with extra heavy oil, as this will cause an oil drain-back issue with the oil in the valve covers not making it to the oil pan in time. Same with using less than 5 quarts of oil in the oil pan. Both lead to spinning rod bearings.
You're likely going to need to disassemble this engine to fix the issues. Look for worn valve guides, as most machine shops assemble the heads to verify all of the components are returned. I've generally seen dry valve guides filled with metal filings than need to be cleaned out prior to assembly. Also, while you take the engine apart "plastigage" the main and rod bearings. Tight is good, loose clearances cause windage losses and lower the operating oil pan level. Verify the ring gap and verify that the piston ring grooves are perpendicular to the side of the piston. If the ring grooves are trapezoidal, even a little, then the rings won't seal. Piston wall finish, if the bores weren't torque plate honed, then they won't be round when the heads are torqued. Without this process you will likely see oil consumption of 1 qt per 1000 miles, probably not a big deal. While you have the engine apart, verify that the pistons go even to the top of the block, (the factory machining is 0.030" down on one end with 0.070" one the opposite end). If so, have the engine deck machined to a 0.000" piston/block deck height. It's not an oil consumption issue, but an extra power/torque issue. Also, if you want, verify or change the cam to sightly less duration with a 106 degree lobe separate angle. This will add low end torque without losing anything on top.
Best of luck, if you need or want a means of calculating dynamic compression, let me know, I have an Excell spreadsheet that I made years ago.
Don't fill the engine with extra heavy oil, as this will cause an oil drain-back issue with the oil in the valve covers not making it to the oil pan in time. Same with using less than 5 quarts of oil in the oil pan. Both lead to spinning rod bearings.
You're likely going to need to disassemble this engine to fix the issues. Look for worn valve guides, as most machine shops assemble the heads to verify all of the components are returned. I've generally seen dry valve guides filled with metal filings than need to be cleaned out prior to assembly. Also, while you take the engine apart "plastigage" the main and rod bearings. Tight is good, loose clearances cause windage losses and lower the operating oil pan level. Verify the ring gap and verify that the piston ring grooves are perpendicular to the side of the piston. If the ring grooves are trapezoidal, even a little, then the rings won't seal. Piston wall finish, if the bores weren't torque plate honed, then they won't be round when the heads are torqued. Without this process you will likely see oil consumption of 1 qt per 1000 miles, probably not a big deal. While you have the engine apart, verify that the pistons go even to the top of the block, (the factory machining is 0.030" down on one end with 0.070" one the opposite end). If so, have the engine deck machined to a 0.000" piston/block deck height. It's not an oil consumption issue, but an extra power/torque issue. Also, if you want, verify or change the cam to sightly less duration with a 106 degree lobe separate angle. This will add low end torque without losing anything on top.
Best of luck, if you need or want a means of calculating dynamic compression, let me know, I have an Excell spreadsheet that I made years ago.
