Oil for Modified VQ35

The Critic · Jun 21, 2005

I have a buddy who has a 2003 Infiniti G35 who would like to know what oil to use in his car.

The engine is a custom built VQ35, with PE Twin Turbos running 8.5psi-16psi of boost.

The engine has a special oil pan, that has increased the sump to 6 quarts from 5 quarts; the oil pan has some type of "oil cooler like" capability, I believe it has some type of copper fins to help cool the oil.

Also, the engine is fully decked and sleeved.

Some track, a lot of city driving as well, car is located in San Francisco.

Engine currently has about 2000 miles on it, was running Mobil dino for break-in.

I suggested RL 5w-40 for this application.

Thanks in advance,
Michael

JHZR2 · Jun 21, 2005

Only UOA can give a true answer...

Have the tolerances / clearances in bearings, etc. changed due to the rebuilding? If not, then an ACEA A3 rated oil of the same viscosity as the manual suggests should be fine. Otherwise, a one grade bump-up would be smart, and UOA should be used from there.

JMH

Islandvic · Jun 21, 2005

I would ask the manufacturer of the turbo kit what they recommend.

I'm sure they put a lot of R&D into the design, so they may have some good advice.

8.5-16 PSI is a lot of boost.

Looks like your friend has a freaking rocketship!

Maybe a pre-oiler would help at startup.

If your friend can afford all this, he can afford UOA's. He can add this "report card" to his list of mod's, street cred, and acomplishments. May even help w/ resale to an other enthusiast.

What is AEHAAS going to use in his Maybach?

MolaKule · Jun 21, 2005

I think the RL 10W40 or 5W40 is a good choice for any turbcharged application.

kcryan · Jun 21, 2005

Normally i would start yelling about how VQ's need 15-20k of dino, but this is an exception.

Id get a list of possible 40wts and try them out with UOA's

M1 Truck + SUV, Redline, etc

also mabye a possible use for BC (Castrol Belgium Syntec only found in 5w-40)

kcryan · Jun 22, 2005

AUTO???????????????? has it been driven yet? i would think that beast would rip an auto tranny to shreads

The Critic · Jun 22, 2005

YES its an auto.

The current engine on the car is actually the third engine.

This was a UOA from the first engine

Michael

the_oil_dealer · Jun 22, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Islandvic:

What is AEHAAS going to use in his Maybach?

lol - I'm gonna guess SAE AW32 hydraulic fluid for its water-like viscosity

The Critic · Jun 22, 2005

JHRZ2--I think that there are now greater tolerances after the rebuild.

Islandvic--Aehaas is using RL 5w-20 in his Maybach 57. I don't have the same guts. I'm guessing that this design will yield a minimum of 400HP. Note: This car is an auto as the MT was not avaliable as a 2003.0 model.

Michael

GurgenPB · Jun 23, 2005

Hey Guys... it's my engine Michael is talkign about... I thank him once again for bringing this into the BITOG community.

OK... a few answers.

The rod bearings have the same if not better tolerances, since now everythign is measured up very very carefully by a very good engine rebuilder. I have Arias high silicone forged pistons 9.3:1 CR, running 0.003" (total) piston to wall clearance..the tightest you can get for these forged pistons. he engine as audible piston slap when cold, but that goes away as it ramps up to normail operating temp. The turbos are based off the IHI desgin, they are PE 1420's, although the watercooling is not connected (yet).
The engine is sleeved using the AEBS iron sleeves, but not overboored, hence keepign hte same 3.5L displacement. I am also usign Pauter forged rods, whcih of course are stock size.

I will most definitely be using UOA's, but stil wanted to start with something that is more ikely rather than not to secure a good UOA, and hence engine protection. I will definitely post this when performed. (should I even do a UOA on the current dino mobil 10w30?).

Manufacturer of the turbo kit is clueless on this, and i ahve gotten 5-6 difference recommendation by askign as many poeple.

BTW the AUTO trans has been holding up great, with so far no signs of clutch pack wear. I have upgraded the torque converter, not haht i had to, sincethe stock one is fully furnace brazed (not like the others). A valve body would certainly be helpful, but i am eyeing a first ever MT swap into this baby, just as soon as i can ebay one of my kidneys.

I guess it's between Redline 5w40, 10w40 nad maybe some other 40wts. I do spend half the time in L.A., and will be spending all ofmy time here following March 06, when i finish school in SF. So, the recommendatin should probably be tailored for the hotter LA climate and not the perpetual winter (by CA standards) of SF. I would however prefer to use a much more easily accessible oil than RL, and don't care about the drain interval as much (iow, at the expense of the longer drain interval). Maybe the M1 extended performance series?

Thanks again guys.. much appreciated.

Gurgen

Islandvic · Jun 23, 2005

GurgenPB, does the Auto Trans have an aux trans oil cooler?

That sucks the turbo company can't give you a straight answer!

I can only assume Mike Wan's suggestion of RL 5-40 would not hurt at all.

GurgenPB · Jun 25, 2005

vic,

YEs, I added an additional tranny fluid cooler, which is now connected in series with stock cooler built into the bottom radiator end tank.

Islandvic · Jun 25, 2005

Bullet Proof!

The Critic · Jun 25, 2005

I'd also like to add that Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w-40 is widely avaliable and is a good choice for this particular application IMO.

Michael

GurgenPB · Jun 25, 2005

Michael...

I took your advise and got the truck and SUV M1 5w40. I could only find it at one ofthe Kragen's I tried. Will be putting it in tomorrow. I will get some of my current oil (10w30 mobil dino ... i think?1) and send it in for analysis. Is it going to tell me much? Especially since i am not sure of the oil type and use interval. and that I will not be using the oil again. I incline to think not...

BTW... How are the K&N oil filters? Couldn't find the M1 one I use in stock.

Michael, thanks again buddy. And to all, thank you very much. RL would be my first choice, and in fact I will definitely try them next time, as I will preorder the oil in advance. So, there will be something to compare it to.

GurgenPB · Jun 26, 2005

an update...

Just put in the M1 5w40 suv/truck oil. the dino was pretty black..waited a bit too long. I will be sending it out for analysis today, so will post results soon.

The engine sounded and felt much smoother with this new oil, whihch I am pretty sure is a function ofit being new, and not synthetic (or not?).

Gurgen

The Critic · Jun 26, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by GurgenPB:
an update...

Just put in the M1 5w40 suv/truck oil. the dino was pretty black..waited a bit too long. I will be sending it out for analysis today, so will post results soon.

The engine sounded and felt much smoother with this new oil, whihch I am pretty sure is a function ofit being new, and not synthetic (or not?).

Gurgen

Gurgen,
Most likely because T&SUV is a thick 40wt compared to the 10w-30 dino you had before. The 10w-30 dino mostly likely sheared down to a 20wt given the high stress conditions in your setup!

Michael

Islandvic · Jun 26, 2005

Do yall have pics of the rocket sled?

The M1 5-40 just found a great home to do its dirty work!

Drew99GT · Jun 26, 2005

I'd get water lines hooked up to the turbochargers ASAP if your doing any kind of heavy boosting. What company is PE? Do you mean PTE (Precision Turbo and Engineering)? If so, FWIW, they recomend synthetic 10w-30 for most turbos, even high hp/high boost situations, although I didn't know they did anything with IHI turbos. Something like Redline 10w-30 would be about the best compramise of HT/HS, viscosity etc. you can get.

The Critic · Jun 27, 2005

Drew: Turbo is made by Power Enterprises, I believe.

Islandvic:
Directory of Car Pictures

Michael

Oil for Modified VQ35

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