Hello, i was given a sears craftsman 7500 watt generator many years ago. I took it apart and painted it and it is just now going back together. The engine is a tecumseh oh180. I pulled the valve cover and it was brand new looking down to the paint still on the valve springs. Also the brushes and slip ring in generator don't really have any wear. I dont think this generator has really ever been used much if any. I would like to break it in and was wondering what oil to use during the break in? Also after the break in what is a good oil to use? Here is a pdf on the motor with oil weight recommendations. http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Tecumseh_Technician%27s_Handbook_-_8_to_18HP_Cast_Iron_Four_Cycle_Engines%28691462A%29.pdf
Oil for generator?
- Thread starter joegreen
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Rotella 10w 30 or 15w 40 if you are breaking it in in hot weather.
I would use a conventional 10w/30 for breakin, Delo or Rotella. Run it for progressively longer periods, with cool downs in between (Heat cycles). Start with 15 minutes, then 30, then 60 minutes.
Run it under load for most of this period.After that, change after no more than 5 hours. If it does not seem to be consuming oil at that point, Rotella T6 synthetic.....I would use 5W/40, but I live where it can get hot, and my generator lives indoors, so brutal cold on startup would not be an issue.
Run it under load for most of this period.After that, change after no more than 5 hours. If it does not seem to be consuming oil at that point, Rotella T6 synthetic.....I would use 5W/40, but I live where it can get hot, and my generator lives indoors, so brutal cold on startup would not be an issue.
It has to have an oil pump
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It has to have an oil pump
Why?
Let me rephrase that.
I've looked at the parts manual for the Tecumseh OH180 as specified in the original post and I can see both a lack of oil pump/filter and a slinger on the bottom of the con rod. I did 30 seconds of research to come to my conclusion, how did you jump to yours?
It has to have an oil pump
Why?
Let me rephrase that.
I've looked at the parts manual for the Tecumseh OH180 as specified in the original post and I can see both a lack of oil pump/filter and a slinger on the bottom of the con rod. I did 30 seconds of research to come to my conclusion, how did you jump to yours?
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Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30, Defy 10w30, Rotella T5 10w30.
Mobil 1 0w40 will serve it well for a long time. Its light enough when cold to provide plenty of splash lubrication and protect it during long hot runs.
A splash lubricated engine uses dippers/slingers to basically throw oil around the engine.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/s...gs-and-stratton
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It has to have an oil pump
No it doesn't.
A splash lubricated engine uses dippers/slingers to basically throw oil around the engine.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/s...gs-and-stratton
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It has to have an oil pump
No it doesn't.
Valvoline "Racing" 30 weight. High Zinc for break-in; run it a minute or two just to get a little heat in it, then plug in a 100-300W load on EACH leg (balance draw against both 120v legs) for about 10 minutes to put a tiny load on it and get it up to full temp. Then really kick it up and run 1,000-2,000 watt load on EACH leg for 20-30 minutes at a time (or use it to power your 240v dryer on high-heat) with a 5-10 minute cool-off cycle at 0-300W load (per leg) between high-load cycles. Repeat for 3-4 hours. Once finished disconnect load and allow 2 minutes run time for cool-down, then turn off fuel and allow it to run out of gas. Drain tank, drain carb (using bowl drain or remove bowl and dump out fuel), drain oil and replace with your choice (straight 30, 5w30, or 10w-30, brand and conventional/synthetic are irrelevant), remove plug and spray fogging oil in cyl while assistant slowly pulls starter rope to move through a couple engine revolutions. Replace spark plug, slowly pull starter rope until the point of maximum resistance (both valves closed, piston near top of compression stroke), place in garage/shed/basement for (hopefully) long-term storage. Pull it out of storage every 2 years and run it at low load for 20 minutes or so to make sure it hasn't lost it's magnetism then change oil and repeat tank/bowl drain procedure as well as fogging/put away procedure.
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Originally Posted By: linksep
Valvoline "Racing" 30 weight. High Zinc for break-in; run it a minute or two just to get a little heat in it, then plug in a 100-300W load on EACH leg (balance draw against both 120v legs) for about 10 minutes to put a tiny load on it and get it up to full temp. Then really kick it up and run 1,000-2,000 watt load on EACH leg for 20-30 minutes at a time (or use it to power your 240v dryer on high-heat) with a 5-10 minute cool-off cycle at 0-300W load (per leg) between high-load cycles. Repeat for 3-4 hours. Once finished disconnect load and allow 2 minutes run time for cool-down, then turn off fuel and allow it to run out of gas. Drain tank, drain carb (using bowl drain or remove bowl and dump out fuel), drain oil and replace with your choice (straight 30, 5w30, or 10w-30, brand and conventional/synthetic are irrelevant), remove plug and spray fogging oil in cyl while assistant slowly pulls starter rope to move through a couple engine revolutions. Replace spark plug, slowly pull starter rope until the point of maximum resistance (both valves closed, piston near top of compression stroke), place in garage/shed/basement for (hopefully) long-term storage. Pull it out of storage every 2 years and run it at low load for 20 minutes or so to make sure it hasn't lost it's magnetism then change oil and repeat tank/bowl drain procedure as well as fogging/put away procedure.
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
Valvoline "Racing" 30 weight. High Zinc for break-in; run it a minute or two just to get a little heat in it, then plug in a 100-300W load on EACH leg (balance draw against both 120v legs) for about 10 minutes to put a tiny load on it and get it up to full temp. Then really kick it up and run 1,000-2,000 watt load on EACH leg for 20-30 minutes at a time (or use it to power your 240v dryer on high-heat) with a 5-10 minute cool-off cycle at 0-300W load (per leg) between high-load cycles. Repeat for 3-4 hours. Once finished disconnect load and allow 2 minutes run time for cool-down, then turn off fuel and allow it to run out of gas. Drain tank, drain carb (using bowl drain or remove bowl and dump out fuel), drain oil and replace with your choice (straight 30, 5w30, or 10w-30, brand and conventional/synthetic are irrelevant), remove plug and spray fogging oil in cyl while assistant slowly pulls starter rope to move through a couple engine revolutions. Replace spark plug, slowly pull starter rope until the point of maximum resistance (both valves closed, piston near top of compression stroke), place in garage/shed/basement for (hopefully) long-term storage. Pull it out of storage every 2 years and run it at low load for 20 minutes or so to make sure it hasn't lost it's magnetism then change oil and repeat tank/bowl drain procedure as well as fogging/put away procedure.
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
Sounds about like my maint. routine for my Generator.
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
Sounds about like my maint. routine for my Generator.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Yeah, you're not kidding! In fact, my little portable gen has been sitting under the workbench in the garage for 5yrs. I haven't touched it. Pretty sure I ran it dry the last time I used it though.
I do have a Hazzard Fraught Tools little 2-stroke gen new in the box, on a shelf in my basement. It's been there about 2yrs.
I do have a Hazzard Fraught Tools little 2-stroke gen new in the box, on a shelf in my basement. It's been there about 2yrs.
Originally Posted By: JTK
I do have a Hazzard Fraught Tools little 2-stroke gen new in the box, on a shelf in my basement. It's been there about 2yrs.
I broke down and got one for $79 on sale a few years ago, and spent another $40 on a little pancake air compressor. Every 2 months or so I find myself on the farm working on a tractor, or just building maintenance, and man it is nice just having those two things with me. For me at least it was a well spent $120.
I do have a Hazzard Fraught Tools little 2-stroke gen new in the box, on a shelf in my basement. It's been there about 2yrs.
I broke down and got one for $79 on sale a few years ago, and spent another $40 on a little pancake air compressor. Every 2 months or so I find myself on the farm working on a tractor, or just building maintenance, and man it is nice just having those two things with me. For me at least it was a well spent $120.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Yep, $79 is what I paid for mine!
Summer use you want a 15W40 in it. Winter 5W30 synthetic.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
Have to remember this place is proliferated with legions of over thinkers...
For a fresh rebuild(but was it rebuilt, or just inspected?) I'd run it a couple hours with conventional 10W-30 and change with something like M1 0W-40 mentioned, then use as needed...
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
Have to remember this place is proliferated with legions of over thinkers...
For a fresh rebuild(but was it rebuilt, or just inspected?) I'd run it a couple hours with conventional 10W-30 and change with something like M1 0W-40 mentioned, then use as needed...
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It has to have an oil pump
No it doesn't. Ever heard of splash lubrication
It has to have an oil pump
No it doesn't. Ever heard of splash lubrication
I just did the preventative maintenance on my little 1400 watt Honda. I changed out the stale fuel, started it up, connected a space heater on low, ran it 30 minutes to get it good and warm and then changed the oil with some of the Mobil 1 TDT 5W-40 I keep for other uses. As my garage is reasonably dry I don't bother with fogging oil or draining the fuel.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: linksep
Valvoline "Racing" 30 weight. High Zinc for break-in; run it a minute or two just to get a little heat in it, then plug in a 100-300W load on EACH leg (balance draw against both 120v legs) for about 10 minutes to put a tiny load on it and get it up to full temp. Then really kick it up and run 1,000-2,000 watt load on EACH leg for 20-30 minutes at a time (or use it to power your 240v dryer on high-heat) with a 5-10 minute cool-off cycle at 0-300W load (per leg) between high-load cycles. Repeat for 3-4 hours. Once finished disconnect load and allow 2 minutes run time for cool-down, then turn off fuel and allow it to run out of gas. Drain tank, drain carb (using bowl drain or remove bowl and dump out fuel), drain oil and replace with your choice (straight 30, 5w30, or 10w-30, brand and conventional/synthetic are irrelevant), remove plug and spray fogging oil in cyl while assistant slowly pulls starter rope to move through a couple engine revolutions. Replace spark plug, slowly pull starter rope until the point of maximum resistance (both valves closed, piston near top of compression stroke), place in garage/shed/basement for (hopefully) long-term storage. Pull it out of storage every 2 years and run it at low load for 20 minutes or so to make sure it hasn't lost it's magnetism then change oil and repeat tank/bowl drain procedure as well as fogging/put away procedure.
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
For a residential backup genny that sees 1-20 hours/year every 1-5 years; functionally no damage... Your usage is how we broke in my dad's genny... Brought it home from the store, dumped in conventional 5w30 or 10w30 Quaker State (one of the cheaper oils in stock where we bought the genny) and ran it about 9 hours the first day, then an additional 6 or 7 hours the second day until power came back on. Changed the oil with same Xw30 Quaker State conventional fogged it, drained ALL the gas, and put it away (on a compression stroke so valves are closed).
The OP is asking how to break-in a several years old genny that has basically never been run, I gave an answer that is as close as I know to the "perfect" break-in because he is asking on BITOG and BITOG members are neurotic about minutia that may make the difference between a genny running 500 hours vs 550 hours over a 30 year lifespan. Is it overkill and "over thinking" for a genny that may see 20 hours in 3 decades? Absolutely! Is that the break-in procedure that will allow the "chemically-imbalanced" (typical) BITOG member to sleep at night regardless of the fact that most gennys won't see 500 hours before they are considered scrap? IMO, yes. Is that how I will break-in my own genny once I buy one? Yes.
Originally Posted By: linksep
Valvoline "Racing" 30 weight. High Zinc for break-in; run it a minute or two just to get a little heat in it, then plug in a 100-300W load on EACH leg (balance draw against both 120v legs) for about 10 minutes to put a tiny load on it and get it up to full temp. Then really kick it up and run 1,000-2,000 watt load on EACH leg for 20-30 minutes at a time (or use it to power your 240v dryer on high-heat) with a 5-10 minute cool-off cycle at 0-300W load (per leg) between high-load cycles. Repeat for 3-4 hours. Once finished disconnect load and allow 2 minutes run time for cool-down, then turn off fuel and allow it to run out of gas. Drain tank, drain carb (using bowl drain or remove bowl and dump out fuel), drain oil and replace with your choice (straight 30, 5w30, or 10w-30, brand and conventional/synthetic are irrelevant), remove plug and spray fogging oil in cyl while assistant slowly pulls starter rope to move through a couple engine revolutions. Replace spark plug, slowly pull starter rope until the point of maximum resistance (both valves closed, piston near top of compression stroke), place in garage/shed/basement for (hopefully) long-term storage. Pull it out of storage every 2 years and run it at low load for 20 minutes or so to make sure it hasn't lost it's magnetism then change oil and repeat tank/bowl drain procedure as well as fogging/put away procedure.
Holey moley. I wonder what untold damage I did to my generator 15 years ago just putting 5w30 into it (0W-30 now) and running it when needed. Wow.
For a residential backup genny that sees 1-20 hours/year every 1-5 years; functionally no damage... Your usage is how we broke in my dad's genny... Brought it home from the store, dumped in conventional 5w30 or 10w30 Quaker State (one of the cheaper oils in stock where we bought the genny) and ran it about 9 hours the first day, then an additional 6 or 7 hours the second day until power came back on. Changed the oil with same Xw30 Quaker State conventional fogged it, drained ALL the gas, and put it away (on a compression stroke so valves are closed).
The OP is asking how to break-in a several years old genny that has basically never been run, I gave an answer that is as close as I know to the "perfect" break-in because he is asking on BITOG and BITOG members are neurotic about minutia that may make the difference between a genny running 500 hours vs 550 hours over a 30 year lifespan. Is it overkill and "over thinking" for a genny that may see 20 hours in 3 decades? Absolutely! Is that the break-in procedure that will allow the "chemically-imbalanced" (typical) BITOG member to sleep at night regardless of the fact that most gennys won't see 500 hours before they are considered scrap? IMO, yes. Is that how I will break-in my own genny once I buy one? Yes.
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