I bought a house and it had a Ford LGT riding lawnmower in the garage. It has a Kohler engine and I believe it is an early 90s model. I'm looking to change the oil and would like to know what kind of oil to use? 5w30, 10w40, 10w30, 30w???? Thanks for any help/suggestions.
Oil for Ford Riding Lawnmower??
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Most people would use a straight 30. Its the summer when the grass is growing and that is what they normally suggest.
I order Amsoil 4 stroke synthetic oil for small engines.
If you want to use a multi-weight then a 10W30. Hopefully it has a filter that you should also change.
I order Amsoil 4 stroke synthetic oil for small engines.
If you want to use a multi-weight then a 10W30. Hopefully it has a filter that you should also change.
Forgot to mention I'm located in mid/northern Michigan so should I still go with the HDEO 30? I mean it does get low/mid 80s in July & August, but otherwise it's 70s or less when running the mower.
Thanks for all the posts so far!
Thanks for all the posts so far!
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Kohler will spec 10w30 for the Command series in that machine. Like the others suggest, I like heavy-duty/diesel/fleet oils in the 30 or 40wt range for small aircooled engines.
Joel
Joel
I agree that any reasonable HDEO oil will do just fine. Choose the best oil for the least cost and change it annually. With reasonable maintenance, the machine will run forever.
I'm presently running Shell Formula 10W40 in both of my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda powered). It was on sale for $1.79/liter. Bought a few years supply and have been using it for a couple years now. Machines are running just fine. No need to spend big bucks on expensive oils when bargains like the above will do just fine.
I'm presently running Shell Formula 10W40 in both of my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda powered). It was on sale for $1.79/liter. Bought a few years supply and have been using it for a couple years now. Machines are running just fine. No need to spend big bucks on expensive oils when bargains like the above will do just fine.
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I run the amsoil small engine oil in my 6hp exmark mower. 630hrs and still kicking. it's 95-110 degrees out most of the summer where I live.
Shell Rotella any weight,any style. My Intek Briggs engine is on the 5w-40 synthetic.
Grease the heck out of the spindles on the mower deck.
Grease the heck out of the spindles on the mower deck.
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Shell Rotella any weight,any style. My Intek Briggs engine is on the 5w-40 synthetic.
Grease the heck out of the spindles on the mower deck.
X3..
I use Rotella T5 10-30. Much like yourself I was advised on here that AC engines like a HDEO, and I run T5 in my WJ so I threw it in the tractor as well, seems to work great and easy starts.
Shell Rotella any weight,any style. My Intek Briggs engine is on the 5w-40 synthetic.
Grease the heck out of the spindles on the mower deck.
X3..
I use Rotella T5 10-30. Much like yourself I was advised on here that AC engines like a HDEO, and I run T5 in my WJ so I threw it in the tractor as well, seems to work great and easy starts.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
I agree that any reasonable HDEO oil will do just fine. Choose the best oil for the least cost and change it annually. With reasonable maintenance, the machine will run forever.
I'm presently running Shell Formula 10W40 in both of my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda powered). It was on sale for $1.79/liter. Bought a few years supply and have been using it for a couple years now. Machines are running just fine. No need to spend big bucks on expensive oils when bargains like the above will do just fine.
is 10-40 recommended in any OPE application from 90's forward?
I agree that any reasonable HDEO oil will do just fine. Choose the best oil for the least cost and change it annually. With reasonable maintenance, the machine will run forever.
I'm presently running Shell Formula 10W40 in both of my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda powered). It was on sale for $1.79/liter. Bought a few years supply and have been using it for a couple years now. Machines are running just fine. No need to spend big bucks on expensive oils when bargains like the above will do just fine.
is 10-40 recommended in any OPE application from 90's forward?
I'm using 10w30 Havoline DS this year, probably the same thing next year.
Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: boraticus
I agree that any reasonable HDEO oil will do just fine. Choose the best oil for the least cost and change it annually. With reasonable maintenance, the machine will run forever.
I'm presently running Shell Formula 10W40 in both of my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda powered). It was on sale for $1.79/liter. Bought a few years supply and have been using it for a couple years now. Machines are running just fine. No need to spend big bucks on expensive oils when bargains like the above will do just fine.
is 10-40 recommended in any OPE application from 90's forward?
Review the engine oil viscosity charts provided in the engine manuals. You'll notice that viscosity recommendations are directly related to ambient operating temperatures. If 10W30 or straight 30 will do the job, why wouldn't 10W40 do it just as well?
Originally Posted By: boraticus
I agree that any reasonable HDEO oil will do just fine. Choose the best oil for the least cost and change it annually. With reasonable maintenance, the machine will run forever.
I'm presently running Shell Formula 10W40 in both of my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda powered). It was on sale for $1.79/liter. Bought a few years supply and have been using it for a couple years now. Machines are running just fine. No need to spend big bucks on expensive oils when bargains like the above will do just fine.
is 10-40 recommended in any OPE application from 90's forward?
Review the engine oil viscosity charts provided in the engine manuals. You'll notice that viscosity recommendations are directly related to ambient operating temperatures. If 10W30 or straight 30 will do the job, why wouldn't 10W40 do it just as well?
Conventional 10w40 (for normal cars) has too many viscosity modifiers. If you want something close to that, then run 15W40 diesel rated oil.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Conventional 10w40 (for normal cars) has too many viscosity modifiers. If you want something close to that, then run 15W40 diesel rated oil.
Here's an excerpt from Shell:
"Many domestic automobile manufacturers now recommend 5w30 grade engine oils year round with 10w30 being the preferred grade for other models of cars and light trucks. Typically Japanese manufacturers are also recommending lighter grades such as 5w30 and 10w30 while many European manufacturers prefer heavier grades such as 10W-40 or 20W-50 particularly in high temperature operation. All manufacturers recognize the need for 5w30 grades at lower temperatures to ensure adequate oil flow and engine protection in winter extremes."
With Shell's reference to "high temperature operation", it would appear to me, that 10W40 is more than adequate for running in a lawn tractor engine.
Conventional 10w40 (for normal cars) has too many viscosity modifiers. If you want something close to that, then run 15W40 diesel rated oil.
Here's an excerpt from Shell:
"Many domestic automobile manufacturers now recommend 5w30 grade engine oils year round with 10w30 being the preferred grade for other models of cars and light trucks. Typically Japanese manufacturers are also recommending lighter grades such as 5w30 and 10w30 while many European manufacturers prefer heavier grades such as 10W-40 or 20W-50 particularly in high temperature operation. All manufacturers recognize the need for 5w30 grades at lower temperatures to ensure adequate oil flow and engine protection in winter extremes."
With Shell's reference to "high temperature operation", it would appear to me, that 10W40 is more than adequate for running in a lawn tractor engine.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: Donald
Conventional 10w40 (for normal cars) has too many viscosity modifiers. If you want something close to that, then run 15W40 diesel rated oil.
Here's an excerpt from Shell:
"Many domestic automobile manufacturers now recommend 5w30 grade engine oils year round with 10w30 being the preferred grade for other models of cars and light trucks. Typically Japanese manufacturers are also recommending lighter grades such as 5w30 and 10w30 while many European manufacturers prefer heavier grades such as 10W-40 or 20W-50 particularly in high temperature operation. All manufacturers recognize the need for 5w30 grades at lower temperatures to ensure adequate oil flow and engine protection in winter extremes."
With Shell's reference to "high temperature operation", it would appear to me, that 10W40 is more than adequate for running in a lawn tractor engine.
Except that a car is not run in a constant high manner like a mower, generator, boat. I would avoid 10W40 in my mower or any run at a high constant RPM.
You will never see a boat owner running 10W40.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Conventional 10w40 (for normal cars) has too many viscosity modifiers. If you want something close to that, then run 15W40 diesel rated oil.
Here's an excerpt from Shell:
"Many domestic automobile manufacturers now recommend 5w30 grade engine oils year round with 10w30 being the preferred grade for other models of cars and light trucks. Typically Japanese manufacturers are also recommending lighter grades such as 5w30 and 10w30 while many European manufacturers prefer heavier grades such as 10W-40 or 20W-50 particularly in high temperature operation. All manufacturers recognize the need for 5w30 grades at lower temperatures to ensure adequate oil flow and engine protection in winter extremes."
With Shell's reference to "high temperature operation", it would appear to me, that 10W40 is more than adequate for running in a lawn tractor engine.
Except that a car is not run in a constant high manner like a mower, generator, boat. I would avoid 10W40 in my mower or any run at a high constant RPM.
You will never see a boat owner running 10W40.
"Except that a car is not run in a constant high manner like a mower, generator, boat. I would avoid 10W40 in my mower or any run at a high constant RPM."
That's certainly your prerogative. However, to suggest that 10W40 would not fulfill the requirements that a riding mower engine demands, is very much incorrect. The oil is more than sufficient to provide the lubricating needs in those engines. As a matter of fact, just about any half decent engine oil will provide sufficient lubrication for those engines provided it's changed within reasonable intervals.
Maybe there's something you know about oil that I don't understand therefore, the following question:
If the lubrication charts for many brands indicate that a 10W30 oil will work fine right up to ambient temperatures of 100 deg. F in their air cooled engines, where would 10W40 fail to provide equal or better protection?
Many people put way too much emphasis on oil type/brand/viscosity etc. Use any reasonable quality oil of recommended viscosity, change the oil as per engine manual instructions and carry on.
That's certainly your prerogative. However, to suggest that 10W40 would not fulfill the requirements that a riding mower engine demands, is very much incorrect. The oil is more than sufficient to provide the lubricating needs in those engines. As a matter of fact, just about any half decent engine oil will provide sufficient lubrication for those engines provided it's changed within reasonable intervals.
Maybe there's something you know about oil that I don't understand therefore, the following question:
If the lubrication charts for many brands indicate that a 10W30 oil will work fine right up to ambient temperatures of 100 deg. F in their air cooled engines, where would 10W40 fail to provide equal or better protection?
Many people put way too much emphasis on oil type/brand/viscosity etc. Use any reasonable quality oil of recommended viscosity, change the oil as per engine manual instructions and carry on.
Most OPE engines, yard tractors included, are air cooled. And air cooled engines run hotter that a water cooled auto engine does.
They are more similar to motorcycle engines, many of which spec. a 20W-40 or heavier oil. Think Harley-Davidson, Victor, BMW. etc...
They are more similar to motorcycle engines, many of which spec. a 20W-40 or heavier oil. Think Harley-Davidson, Victor, BMW. etc...
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Most OPE engines, yard tractors included, are air cooled. And air cooled engines run hotter that a water cooled auto engine does.
They are more similar to motorcycle engines, many of which spec. a 20W-40 or heavier oil. Think Harley-Davidson, Victor, BMW. etc...
Then why do many manufacturers of air cooled engines show 10W30 as one of the recommended oil viscosities?
We have had numerous discussions concerning the durability of decent quality OPE engines. Several participants have posted stories of mowers that are decades old with poorly maintained engines running on a few tablespoons of residual oil from the original fill or at the very least, well used oil many years old. Yet they continue to run and run fairly well despite the neglect. I know I've seen my share of it.
My point is that far too many owners of OPE have oil anxieties concerning brand/type and viscosity. Where, in reality, the engine doesn't care one way or the other as long as it has relatively decent oil in it's crank case. Use any reasonable quality oil of recommended viscosity and change it as per engine's manual. The engine will probably outlast the machine it's mounted on barring catastrophic failure.
When was the last time anyone here had an engine blow up because they used regular, off the shelf 10W30 in their OPE rather than something more expensive?
I've been running $1.79/liter Shell Formula 10W40 in both my riding mower engines for a couple years now. No oil consumption, no smoking, no difference in engine performance or sound. They just keep on doing what they're supposed to do. Accordingly, why the need for more expensive oil?
Most OPE engines, yard tractors included, are air cooled. And air cooled engines run hotter that a water cooled auto engine does.
They are more similar to motorcycle engines, many of which spec. a 20W-40 or heavier oil. Think Harley-Davidson, Victor, BMW. etc...
Then why do many manufacturers of air cooled engines show 10W30 as one of the recommended oil viscosities?
We have had numerous discussions concerning the durability of decent quality OPE engines. Several participants have posted stories of mowers that are decades old with poorly maintained engines running on a few tablespoons of residual oil from the original fill or at the very least, well used oil many years old. Yet they continue to run and run fairly well despite the neglect. I know I've seen my share of it.
My point is that far too many owners of OPE have oil anxieties concerning brand/type and viscosity. Where, in reality, the engine doesn't care one way or the other as long as it has relatively decent oil in it's crank case. Use any reasonable quality oil of recommended viscosity and change it as per engine's manual. The engine will probably outlast the machine it's mounted on barring catastrophic failure.
When was the last time anyone here had an engine blow up because they used regular, off the shelf 10W30 in their OPE rather than something more expensive?
I've been running $1.79/liter Shell Formula 10W40 in both my riding mower engines for a couple years now. No oil consumption, no smoking, no difference in engine performance or sound. They just keep on doing what they're supposed to do. Accordingly, why the need for more expensive oil?
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