oil for extended drains on dodge L4 2.4L

[JHZR2]

we've been doing 'extended' drains of 5k miles (extended given her very severe service), and getting excellent results. Given that its started full cold 6x a day, never heats up except once in a while on the weekend, and is only used for short trips, the car runs and UOAs EXCELLENT!

This is a chrysler 2.0L 4cyl from a plymouth breeze, but it appears that M1 will be an excellent oil for most chrysler engines. Id highly suggest it. Give M1 EP a try if youre really thinking of stretching it out, though im sure regular SM M1 will do it just fine as well. EP may be a little better in the cleaning department though.

JMH

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Quote:
(engine seems to run decently)
==================================================

That engine should purr with those low miles. Might need a complete tuneup... including PCV and intake spray/gas tank treatment.

also

Quote:
I am on track to be running about 25k-30k a year and would love to be able to extend my oil changes out to a year.
=================================================

How about right after winter & just before... ie... twice a year with all those miles you're racking up.

Amsoil or Mobil-1 EP should do the trick. Won't hurt to add a bottle of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment. Lots of good stuff in it.... report can be seen on the Virgin Board.

 

[bulwnkl]

I think your choice of Amsoil S2K is very good if you're looking for annual changes out to 30,000 miles. I think you'll be hard-pressed to find another choice that will have a better chance of making it that far. You may wish to consider a bypass system to achieve that mileage, but I'm not saying it will be required.

I have the 2-liter in a Neon and it does very well. As you may know, the 2.4 is a fairly close relative of the 2-liter that they put in the vans and the PT Cruiser.

I would think that motor would be working fairly hard in a minivan. I just test-drove a brand new one Friday and it is working fairly hard to accelerate above 70. My thought was that a high-quality synthetic oil would be the appropriate choice no matter what the OCI in that application. Again, your Amsoil S2K seems like a winner to me.

 

[Mutant]

Thanks for all the quick responses!

I fear I don't know too much about this engine or Dodge products - have several GMC before this one and it's been an education.

The engine is rated at 150 hp and it seems to move along nicely but it certainly doesnt have much acceleration about 60 mph or so. I have cleaned out the PCV valve and run a can of Amsoil Power Foam split through the throttle body and the PCV vacuum hose. Didnt seem all that dirty. Wasn't sure what it expect but was abit leery of the DOHC. The idle seemed to even out but it was fairly steady before the cleaning.

Thanks for the oil suggestions. I didnt see anything from search for this engine and really have no clue how hard it is on oil or what oils perform best. I am seriously considering the Amsoil dual remote bypass if I can figure out where to mount the sucker but am abit unsure how much it would help. Either the bypass or twice a year changes may help me sleep easier.

Regards

 

[SEBZX79]

I use M1 0w40 in my Cirrus with a 2.5 (thats a mitsu motor) with great results. I had the 2.0 in my prior stratus with a 5 speed that has a diet of M1 5w30 and it loved it.

My father in law has a 2.7 and the 3.2 Chrysler motor and they both get Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30. All these engines LOVE M1 for some reason.

I would think mobil1 would be great in the 2.4.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

You don't think that 6-9k on dino oil was extended?

 

[unDummy]

Once a year is pushing it and UOAs cost almost as much as an oil change. Good luck

Is there room for an oversized filter? If so, use the largest one that fits or get a dual full flow or full+bypass filter. For simplicity, a Trasco filter might be a quick easy choice.

If you really want to go one year on the oil, use a synthetic HDEO(CI-4+ spec) or one of those euro longlife oils(BMW LL, MB 229.# ACEA...).
Delvac1, RotellaT, Schaeffers 9000, and Valvoline BlueExtreme are options.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 and 5w40, Mobil-1 0w40 and 0w30R....and a bunch of boutique oils are also good test candidates.

Don't forget to also flush that tranny now and yearly. For maintenance, don't forget to flush the PS and brake reservoirs. Change all filters(air/fuel), the thermostat/coolant, plugs, belts.........


http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002293
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001894

 

[Mutant]

> You don't think that 6-9k on dino oil was extended?

I think most modern engines filled with run-of-the-mill dino oils and driven by the average driver can easily make 7k-8k OCIs. conservatively. Of course exceptions for turbos, bad engine design, maniac drivers (you know who you are!

) and the like. 3k oil changers are for Nervous Nellies and Grannies.

I think of 'extended' in the 10k+ The short OCIs seem to be an American thing. I wonder who benefits?

I guess short OCIs may be a cheap way of dealing with engine problems like coolant in the oil, but I'd rather just fix it.

I understand that if I ran several UOA EVERY year it would run up the cost, but I figure if I can dial in what oil my engine likes through some progression of UOA, a yearly UOA is enough to give me some idea how my engine is holding up.

I think I'm somewhere in the ballpark on these issues, but who knows

I've run a lot of junkers and a few good cars and somehow got bitten by the oil bug and am trying to find a better way. I used to be a 3k-4k OCI guy with a cheap dino and filter but am moving towards 'extended' OCI with synthetic, good filters and UOA prognostics. Maybe the Fuel Power has melted part of my frontal lobe?

unDummy: any substantial differences in the synthetic HDEOs or do they all perform similarly in different engines? Havent had any luck finding UOA for my engine with syns.

Regards

 

[Gary Allan]

Well, climbing 7 mountains can be a strain on any minivan

Nice town ..WQWK..there is no morning format for the commuter

I would rather see you start off with a 6 month OCI with whatever you intend to use. Install it in the Fall and change/test it in the spring. You should be able then see if a 3 month extension is possible. If you're truly doing 25-30k in a year ..many oils will work well. You cannot be doing any short mileage. Do you commute to Harrisburg everyday??

Anyway ..to mount auxillary filter mounts .. it's not necessary to hard fasten them to sheet metal. You can zip tie them to just about anything (master cylinder, air box, etc.). McGyvering is the contemporary colloqueal expression for this manuver. (visions of Spock, "Colloqueally expressed, but essentially correct.")

 

[Mutant]

Gary, Seven Mountains ACK!

Actually, I not running down 322 E much these days. I belong to the 'Pittsburgh Firefighters Memorial Pipe Band' and end up travelling to Pittsburgh every week (about a 300mi round trip). Toss in a few parades out that way 2/3 of the year, solo competitions (4 this year so far, with another 6 to go) a vacation run to the beach, the odd trip here and there... I just hope I'm not on the wrong side of 30k

I usually run Rt 22 which suprisingly is gettin better. Of course for those in the know, they never stop construction on that road. Cresson Mountain is the baddy that way. In fact, my last car seized a bearing and threw a rod up that peak...god rest her soul.

BTW, they have really screwed up the radio stations in the area. Whoever owns 3 or 4 of the FM stations have scrambled the dial about a month ago. Nothing is what is was and I have mostly resorted to my CD player. I mean, the classic rock station is now called 'WOWIE' not sure of the call letters... sheesh.. wowie...

Thanks for reminding me about strapping the filter mounts up with some zip ties! Sounds more my speed than making and mounting some steel plates, no matter how simple

Just trying to convince myself that a bypass would be a winner.

Regards

 

[unDummy]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Mutant:
unDummy: any substantial differences in the synthetic HDEOs or do they all perform similarly in different engines? Havent had any luck finding UOA for my engine with syns.

---

Oils perform similarly in engines. I just think that HDEO and long OCI EURO oils aren't weakened by the treehuggers pushing MPG and eternal emissions life.
And, you probably won't need any additives with an oil with high HTHS and TBN numbers.

 

[bulwnkl]

If your engine compartment looks like the '05, there's plenty of room on the driver's side of the firewall for an Amsoil dual-remote. I put mine in less space on our Neon by JB Welding some elevator bolts onto the firewall and attaching the mount there. Works like a charm.

 

[Pablo]

Sounds like a sound plan - I just suggest the Series 3000 5W-30 rather than the 0W-30. I think it protects a bit better and still goes the distance.

 

[Mutant]

Heyas,

Gots a new used car that I am in the process of cleaning up and preparing for my first extended oil drains. It is a 99 Dodge Caravan with the 2.4L 4-cyclinder. I bought it at around 65K as salvage from fleet services at the local humungous univeristy. I have the service records and generally had PM (preventive maintenance) with oil and filter change every 6 months with milelage around 6k-9k. I regularly run Fuel Power through the gas and I've cleaned up the throttle body, PCV valve and intake with an application of Power Foam. I just started an application of Auto-Rx (SuperTech 10w-30, Pure One filter) and will decided on inspection of the oil filters if I need a second application (engine seems to run decently).

whoosh.. Anyway, I've been wanting to try some extended oil drains. I am on track to be running about 25k-30k a year and would love to be able to extend my oil changes out to a year. I am looking for some advice on an 'action plan' to make this happen. I couldn't find any UOAs on my motor and am a bit confused by what I read on extended oil drains. What I'm thinking...

1. Get a UOA during my Auto-Rx rinse just to be sure I don't have anything funky going on with my engine.

2. Try some Amsoil S2K 0w-30 with first UOA around 10k and every 5k-10k after to see how the oil is running. Perhaps add some Lube Control per directions. I'm assuming the 0w-30 is fine for an engine that calls for 10w-30.

Anyone have an experiece with this engine? Other oil choices? Any ideas are welcome.

Regards