Oil for a dying engine

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slinky

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Carson City, NV
The engine in my Rodeo is about to bite the dust. I have tons of glittery stuff on the dipstick and the last oil filter I cut open had lots of gritty metal trapped in the pleats. The funny thing is it still runs pretty good.

This isn't my DD and it pretty much only sees dirt, so I don't need to depend on it. I just want to try to keep it going over the winter (maybe a few hundred miles). Next spring I'll pull to motor and swap in a low mileage used motor.

So, should I use a heavy weight oil like 10w-40 or 20w-50?
Maybe use an additive like STP or Restore?

Just wondering what you guys would do to squeeze a few more miles out of a dying engine?

Thanks
 
does it have blowby?is leaking?is it leaving a blue cloud of smoke?is it noisy?if no to these questions keep using what you have been using.
 
No really noticeable oil burning (maybe 3/4 quart in 3,000 miles). I get a small puff of blue smoke for the first few seconds after start-up only if it's been sitting for a few days. It has a faint bottom end knock and it's always had noisy lifters due to problematic hydraulic lash adjusters that Isuzu used in their SOHC engines.

It was fed Walmart bulk 5w-30 dino up to 187,000 at who knows what OCI. (this was with the previous owner). I then used Castrol GTX HM 5w-30 at 3,000 mile OCIs up to 195,000 then it was run on PP 5w-30 at 4,000 mile OCIs for the last 10,000 or so.

I was just thinking that something thicker might help out. I think it's safe to say some of my bearing in the bottom end are getting chewed up to produce all the metal.


I've never had a situation like this before
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
If you're willing to pull the motor anyway, I say run it till it dies first. As for oil, the HDEO suggestion sounds good.


I'm going to run it til it grenades for sure. Who knows it might last for a while, it's been spitting metal for a few thousand miles now.
 
1993, the first year for the all Isuzu 3.2L SOHC V6. Prior to that the Rodeo had a GM 2.8/3.1L. Isuzu spec'd the 3.2L to run on anything between 5w30 and 20w50 depending on ambient temps. They are a pretty darn good non-interference T-belt engine. Usually the 4L30E auto trans, body, 4x4, etc.. is what gives up the ghost first on them. Many owners mistook the loud knock of a weak timing belt tensioner as a rod knock on these engines when it couldn't be further from the truth. If you are suffering from lower than normal oil pressure, a 15w40, or 20w50 would help. If oil press is good on a 30wt, I don't see the benefit of going heavier.

Joel
 
By far the best dino I've used is QS red bottle Higher Mileage engine 10w-30 with slick 50 - dont worry about the slick 50 ADD -its not the same old stuff. Many roundy=round and digs racers use this stuff up here -its got quite a following. I have 3 racetracks all round my cabin. Why dont you drop the pan and fix the bearing? if its a rod big-end and you got some wiggle room this can be an easy and cheap job.
 
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Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
Lucas Oil Stabilizer is ment for situations like this.
Sorry for the dig, but Lucas is meant to stay on the shelf in the store and out of your car.
 
Originally Posted By: slinky
The engine in my Rodeo...tons of glittery stuff on the dipstick and the last oil filter I cut open had lots of gritty metal trapped in the pleats. The funny thing is it still runs pretty good...then it was run on PP 5w-30 at 4,000 mile OCIs for the last 10,000 or so.

...


Maybe the Pennzoil Platinum cleaned out 46% (or 92%) of your sludge.
55.gif


Seriously, if you're just noticing some grit and no other real issues, a high calcium oil might have dislodged some stuff. I wouldn't give up on it yet and would try a nice high mileage like MaxLife in 5W/10W-30...
 
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I'd definetly try Restore. It's full of microscopic particles of Copper, Silver and Lead, and is 'supposed' to plate to worn engine surfaces to 'rebuild' them.

Who knows, it might work.....
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I'd definetly try Restore. It's full of microscopic particles of Copper, Silver and Lead, and is 'supposed' to plate to worn engine surfaces to 'rebuild' them.

Who knows, it might work.....



I agree, Can't hurt, might help!
 
If it were me, Chevron Delo 15w40 with your favorite additive, with a good filter to get rid of the metal shavings.

Then just take it easy on it, and run it til the worst happens.
 
I wouldn't do anything drastic until you have an issue. Try one grade thicker for now. If you hear a knock, definately go with something much thicker and preferebly in a straight weight. If the rings start going, try the restore and possibly a thicker oil. Keep in mind there may not be a real problem. I had a timing chain tensioner fail one time. The plastic wear pad fell off and it went chain to metal tensioner for many, many miles. My oil looked metallic once in a while but the big bang never came. Who makes this particular engine?
 
If you want to build up a worn engine, this http://www.rvs-tec.com/English/index.htm is working.

I used it to fix a ruined diesel pump(saved me 3000 USD on that alone).

It has also improved two engines, one manual transmission and a differential.

It is now halfway through testing by TÜV.

I didn't want to bring it up untill the testing was finished, but I do, since it can save you a lot of money.

They are represented in the US and Canada, but I would recommend the Canadian(they have sold it for a longer period of time).

Good luck.
 
By the way; I have been testing Xado and Restore.

Xado did nothing, and is just a fake.

Restore didn't do anything, either.
 
Originally Posted By: jonny-b
By the way; I have been testing Xado and Restore.

Xado did nothing, and is just a fake.

Restore didn't do anything, either.



any more details how did you determine that those two are fake and RVS is not?
 
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