PYB has alot of Moly, which is proabably making that 4.0 run quieter.
Oil For 2000 Jeep Cherokee
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The PYB at Wal-Mart was telling me to buy it this morning. It was a 10w-30 single quart bottle...then a 5 quart jug of 10w-30 started in...
Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
The PYB at Wal-Mart was telling me to buy it this morning. It was a 10w-30 single quart bottle...then a 5 quart jug of 10w-30 started in...
PYB is still the quietest oil I've yet to put in my 4.0. I'm currently running some Moly loaded SM Maxlife in it but it's not as quiet as the PYB was IMO, but then again nothing else has been either. Another Jeeper on here tried it and had the same positive PYB results as well.
The PYB at Wal-Mart was telling me to buy it this morning. It was a 10w-30 single quart bottle...then a 5 quart jug of 10w-30 started in...
PYB is still the quietest oil I've yet to put in my 4.0. I'm currently running some Moly loaded SM Maxlife in it but it's not as quiet as the PYB was IMO, but then again nothing else has been either. Another Jeeper on here tried it and had the same positive PYB results as well.
Im Buyin a 2000 Cherokee Today!!! Has a Blown 4.0 with 206,??? miles, Im hopin to ReBuild. Gold, Skid plates, manual locks and windows, Brand New(less than 50 miles) Maxxis Bighorn 30x9.5R15 tires,...for $1400.
About half way through Portin&Polishin a 92 (7120 Head)used cylinder head, and man people are right when they say the early(91thru95) H.O. 4.0 heads, which would be the 7120 head, have the biggest exhaust ports. they will be a "littlE"bit bigger than stock, but not drastically bigger like I did last year to my 99 Cherokees 4.0 cylinder head,..the 24 Hour Head.
Are you just replacing the head or did you do any work to the bottom end? A lot of times people crack the heads on the 2000s and then kill the bottom end.
IIRC, there's a company that sells "adapter" kits to use an older head with the 2000+ exhaust manifold.
I know of one or two people locally who are running an older head without issue ... even without an adapter. They just set the coil rail on top of the spark plugs and it works for them.
IIRC, there's a company that sells "adapter" kits to use an older head with the 2000+ exhaust manifold.
I know of one or two people locally who are running an older head without issue ... even without an adapter. They just set the coil rail on top of the spark plugs and it works for them.
Wow. I don't own a Jeep, but the iron increases with M1 are scary. Makes me glad I picked up Amsoil and returned my M1 fluids to AAP.
I believe there are 0w-30 HDEOs available in Canada. I wonder how that would do for a winter oil. Are you planning any visits north?
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I believe there are 0w-30 HDEOs available in Canada. I wonder how that would do for a winter oil.
Plenty up north. Petro-Canada sells one, and they have some distribution in the States. The head office south of the border is in Chicago. You can reach them at 1-888-284-4572 and they could hopefully find you a close distributor and let you know about product availability. The 0w-30 HDEO would be Duron XL, which is a CH-4/SJ lubricant.
I believe there are 0w-30 HDEOs available in Canada. I wonder how that would do for a winter oil.
Plenty up north. Petro-Canada sells one, and they have some distribution in the States. The head office south of the border is in Chicago. You can reach them at 1-888-284-4572 and they could hopefully find you a close distributor and let you know about product availability. The 0w-30 HDEO would be Duron XL, which is a CH-4/SJ lubricant.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Using M1 in the GC resulted in more than double the iron wear at the same interval as any other oil tested.
Oils used that all held up well include Amsoil (10w30, 5w30, and 0w30), Valvoline 5w30 and surprisingly, SuperTech Synthetic 5w30.
What I noticed with the Supertech 5w-30 synthetic is I lost oil pressure fairly quick after a hefty day of offroading. It sheared to a 5w-20 pretty quick.
Using M1 in the GC resulted in more than double the iron wear at the same interval as any other oil tested.
Oils used that all held up well include Amsoil (10w30, 5w30, and 0w30), Valvoline 5w30 and surprisingly, SuperTech Synthetic 5w30.
What I noticed with the Supertech 5w-30 synthetic is I lost oil pressure fairly quick after a hefty day of offroading. It sheared to a 5w-20 pretty quick.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Using M1 in the GC resulted in more than double the iron wear at the same interval as any other oil tested.
Oils used that all held up well include Amsoil (10w30, 5w30, and 0w30), Valvoline 5w30 and surprisingly, SuperTech Synthetic 5w30.
What I noticed with the Supertech 5w-30 synthetic is I lost oil pressure fairly quick after a hefty day of offroading. It sheared to a 5w-20 pretty quick.
Yeah I can see that, except for the fact that the oil report showed it was still 5w30 after 5000 miles. But we live out in the country and most driving is easy highway so didn't have the opportunity to bash the oil very much. ST was included in the test since it was relatively inexpensive.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Wow. I don't own a Jeep, but the iron increases with M1 are scary. Makes me glad I picked up Amsoil and returned my M1 fluids to AAP.
Please note that it's only in the flat tappet 4.0 that I saw the increase in iron. In our other Jeep, a 2.4L DOHC, M1 performed as well as the other oils in the test.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Using M1 in the GC resulted in more than double the iron wear at the same interval as any other oil tested.
Oils used that all held up well include Amsoil (10w30, 5w30, and 0w30), Valvoline 5w30 and surprisingly, SuperTech Synthetic 5w30.
What I noticed with the Supertech 5w-30 synthetic is I lost oil pressure fairly quick after a hefty day of offroading. It sheared to a 5w-20 pretty quick.
Yeah I can see that, except for the fact that the oil report showed it was still 5w30 after 5000 miles. But we live out in the country and most driving is easy highway so didn't have the opportunity to bash the oil very much. ST was included in the test since it was relatively inexpensive.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Wow. I don't own a Jeep, but the iron increases with M1 are scary. Makes me glad I picked up Amsoil and returned my M1 fluids to AAP.
Please note that it's only in the flat tappet 4.0 that I saw the increase in iron. In our other Jeep, a 2.4L DOHC, M1 performed as well as the other oils in the test.
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Ah, maybe needed a bit more zinc in the formula?
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Ah, maybe needed a bit more zinc in the formula?
No real need to run >SN level Zinc oil in Jeep 2.5/4.0/258. They run fine on any old oil. Mobil 1 has historically caused a bit of noise in this design and several others that fellow members have noted over the years. Does it hurt? I would say in the long run, probably not.
Ah, maybe needed a bit more zinc in the formula?
No real need to run >SN level Zinc oil in Jeep 2.5/4.0/258. They run fine on any old oil. Mobil 1 has historically caused a bit of noise in this design and several others that fellow members have noted over the years. Does it hurt? I would say in the long run, probably not.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Ah, maybe needed a bit more zinc in the formula?
I've spent hours reading Jeep 4.0 UOA's and from what I've seen higher ZDDP does not guarantee a difference in wear numbers. Not saying it's not a good thing, but I haven't seen any consistent UOA advantage to it. Now moly on the other hand...the Jeep 4.0 loves high moly.
Lowest iron I've seen for a 4.0 was on Havoline SL which had a whopping 369 ppm moly...that UOA came back with only 9ppm iron, practically unheard of for the 4.0. But it doesn't have to have moly either, I've seen some great UOA's on Rotella and plain old Valvoline as well, with little to no moly.
Ah, maybe needed a bit more zinc in the formula?
I've spent hours reading Jeep 4.0 UOA's and from what I've seen higher ZDDP does not guarantee a difference in wear numbers. Not saying it's not a good thing, but I haven't seen any consistent UOA advantage to it. Now moly on the other hand...the Jeep 4.0 loves high moly.
Lowest iron I've seen for a 4.0 was on Havoline SL which had a whopping 369 ppm moly...that UOA came back with only 9ppm iron, practically unheard of for the 4.0. But it doesn't have to have moly either, I've seen some great UOA's on Rotella and plain old Valvoline as well, with little to no moly.
if your jeep sound like diesel or tapping or little knock sound, it just the 4.0l jeep thing its noisy engine I ever heard, change oil regulary , using 10w30 T5 or 5w40 T6 or QS defy 10w30 or 10w40 keep driving it.
Before I sold my 2000 jeep GC 4.0 , I give a T6 rotella 5w40 it made extremely different then T5 10w30 or QS defy 10w30 or 10w40 ( yes I try them both ). Alot quiet and smooth with t6, but still i cant get over the 4.0L ticking/tapping/knocking noise
the sound still stuck in my head. Im scare to drive it.
metal this one did the same thing it would tick and knock and make all kinds of noises.. i sea foamed it and also used techron in the gas and drove it hard and now it is super quiet
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