oil for 1972 Datsun 240z

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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: rainman49
I ran a beloved '76 Datsun 280z, which had fuel injection instead of the 240's carbs, for 12 years. Castrol GTX 20W-50 for 230K miles.


That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.


Yup. Me too and I've had three of them as well, the last a '90 2+2.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: rainman49
I ran a beloved '76 Datsun 280z, which had fuel injection instead of the 240's carbs, for 12 years. Castrol GTX 20W-50 for 230K miles.


That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.


Yup. Me too and I've had three of them as well, the last a '90 2+2.


In South TX, GA or AL, you could probably run 20W-50 in anything all the time.
Try that here during the winter.
BMW does recommend the grade down to 14F for my old 318i.
That's about 34 degrees warmer than the coldest morning we saw over last years' atypically cold winter.
 
Actually I did run it in both Omaha and St. Louis but I wasn't recommending you run it all the time. There are many other good recommendations here. I miss all the Z's but the '90 most of all.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Actually I did run it in both Omaha and St. Louis but I wasn't recommending you run it all the time. There are many other good recommendations here. I miss all the Z's but the '90 most of all.


I had a '77,an '86 turbo,and my present '96 n/a. What became of your '90?

If I had it to do all over again,I'd run 10W40 in the 280. Probably Pennzoil or Valvoline.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Recommended Lubricants, Gasoline and coolant (handy pic)


Bearing in mind that the monogrades are of the order of 2.9, 3.5, and 4+ HTHE for the 20, 30 and 40 monos listed respectively, I reckon a 5W40 synthetic (PCMO or Fleet, user's choice) best suits the intent of the manual.

0W, or 10W fine also, depending on where the car gets wintered.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: rainman49
I ran a beloved '76 Datsun 280z, which had fuel injection instead of the 240's carbs, for 12 years. Castrol GTX 20W-50 for 230K miles.


That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.


Nice car.

yep GTX 20W50 was the oil back in the day.

A good excuse to run 20W50 Valvoline VR-1 today. Or the 10W-30 VR-1. Both are synthetic I believe. High Zinc, and no cats to worry about.

Also Valvoline MaxLife 10W-30 or 10W-40 Semi-Synthetics.

Or any mineral HDEO 15W-40 like Rotella or Delo.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.


20W-50 is taboo around here on this board. It's something you're not supposed to talk about. It's something dark and mysterious and greatly feared. It's like a Category 5 tornado ripping through Kansas.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.


20W-50 is taboo around here on this board. It's something you're not supposed to talk about. It's something dark and mysterious and greatly feared. It's like a Category 5 tornado ripping through Kansas.
laugh.gif



I tried GTX 20W-50 back in the day, but found it a little thin.

So I moved to Penrite HPR 30, it's 20W-60 and was just right.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=4
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My first thought is to use some sort of high zinc diesel oil, but many folks online say to use 5w30 and nothing else.

An old straight 6 engine with an API SN 5w30 doesn't sit well with me.

What do you guys think?


Me personally? Im not sure how cold it gets near you)

I would use conventional oils of 10/40 or 15/40 winter assuming you have many days below freezing and conventional 20/50 summer temps above 50 degrees.

My choices would be 15/40 diesel oil (any brand) or 10/40 automotive for cold weather.
Any 20/50 in warm weather above 50 degrees.

If you want a high zinc, conventional Valvoline VR1 in 10/40 or 20/50 is great.

I would never use a 5/30 in a 1972 engine and I would just stick with good basic conventional oils, they are good stuff and priced right.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.


20W-50 is taboo around here on this board. It's something you're not supposed to talk about. It's something dark and mysterious and greatly feared. It's like a Category 5 tornado ripping through Kansas.
laugh.gif



Haha I know huh!
grin.gif
20W50,the red headed stepchild. Walk into a crowded room and mention 20W50. The music suddenly stops and everyone turns around and stares at you with a puzzled look on their faces,yet with slight intrigue and awe
19.gif
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Actually I did run it in both Omaha and St. Louis but I wasn't recommending you run it all the time. There are many other good recommendations here. I miss all the Z's but the '90 most of all.


I had a '77,an '86 turbo,and my present '96 n/a. What became of your '90?

If I had it to do all over again,I'd run 10W40 in the 280. Probably Pennzoil or Valvoline.


Sold it to a guy at former work who'd been pestering me to buy it. I was between jobs and about to be between wives. It was absolutely pristine after five years and (can't remember) miles. By then I was living in Florida and still using Castrol GTX 20-50. I had a '85 and a '86 also. The '86 AFTER the '90. All 2+2's.
 
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Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Actually I did run it in both Omaha and St. Louis but I wasn't recommending you run it all the time. There are many other good recommendations here. I miss all the Z's but the '90 most of all.


I had a '77,an '86 turbo,and my present '96 n/a. What became of your '90?

If I had it to do all over again,I'd run 10W40 in the 280. Probably Pennzoil or Valvoline.


Sold it to a guy at former work who'd been pestering me to buy it. I was between jobs and about to be between wives. It was absolutely pristine after five years and (can't remember) miles. By then I was living in Florida and still using Castrol GTX 20-50. I had a '85 and a '86 also. The '86 AFTER the '90. All 2+2's.


Did you run the GTX 20W50 in your '90? Did you keep yours stock? Mine's bone stock inside and out.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Actually I did run it in both Omaha and St. Louis but I wasn't recommending you run it all the time. There are many other good recommendations here. I miss all the Z's but the '90 most of all.


I had a '77,an '86 turbo,and my present '96 n/a. What became of your '90?

If I had it to do all over again,I'd run 10W40 in the 280. Probably Pennzoil or Valvoline.


Sold it to a guy at former work who'd been pestering me to buy it. I was between jobs and about to be between wives. It was absolutely pristine after five years and (can't remember) miles. By then I was living in Florida and still using Castrol GTX 20-50. I had a '85 and a '86 also. The '86 AFTER the '90. All 2+2's.


Did you run the GTX 20W50 in your '90? Did you keep yours stock? Mine's bone stock inside and out.


They were all stock. I always had the 2+2's because of having two little girls that I like to take with me. We had other cars but they were always ready to go in the Z! One would always be saying, Go faster Daddy!, while the other one was saying, Don't ever do that again! LOL The "drive faster" one is a car nut to this day. Oh, I honestly can't remember what oil I was using in the 90 so I'm guessing it was not 20-50. As to stock, one thing I got tired of and fixed was the seat bolsters wearing on the driver side. I had a shop sew in a leather piece on that side.
 
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Thank you for the advice guys.

Still torn between synthetic or conventional mainly because I have the synthetic on hand, but a 40 or 50 weight sounds good.

The car will never see temps lower than 70*F so cold flow isn't an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Thank you for the advice guys.

Still torn between synthetic or conventional mainly because I have the synthetic on hand, but a 40 or 50 weight sounds good.

The car will never see temps lower than 70*F so cold flow isn't an issue.


I still say go 10W40 conventional. Pennzoil 10W40 HM. I bet she'd purr like a happy kitty
smile.gif
 
Got one of these in genuine 1970 flavor years ago. Lots of parts in baskets including rare AC but a gem of an engine with three webers and a nifty racing header that was 3 into two into one with a 3 inch outlet. The engine shared pistons, rods, oil pump, and timing set with my 510 4 banger!

It was quite a runner, would easily eat 5.0 Mustangs and only weighed in at 1900 pounds wet! Needed gears and a cam to use all that breathing, but was lots of fun. A very softly sprung car, a bit mushy at speed. Went 115 in third gear.

A collector spotted it one day and gave me a bunch of money for it. It was ugly but complete, and he wanted it BAD...
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
The methodology stinks and there's no error analysis, and for an engineer, that's pretty poor. He himself states it bares no semblance to what happens in an engine, so what's the point? Yet, he claims anecdotally to be able to have some correlation with track failures or some such thing.

So, what we have are anecdotal stories about how a non-reproducible test with no methodology adequately explained and no error analysis. And, we're supposed to choose an oil based upon this?

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
There is no again. The info might help an older car owner looking at a plethora of oils. It might not, but what's the concern?


Then what's the point?


I don't know where you get your info from but ain't 540 RAT. He does purposefully state that he is not duplicating an internal engine that would take years and thousands of hours of run time to generate data. He is testing resistance to wear in a controlled pressure test rig:

My test equipment is NOT intended to duplicate an engine’s internal components. On the contrary, the test equipment is specifically designed to cause an oil to reach its failure point, in order to determine what its capability limit it is. And every oil I test is brought to its failure point, that’s how it works. The difference in the failure points, is what we compare.

But it is oil to oil testing. The number and scale are tied to the test environment. But the relative ranking is still valid... It's done at oil running temps (230*), it's repeatable and has been used by a lot of pro racers to help determine engine failures related to wear/lubrication. And that's what we are talking about, isn't it?

Besides, you'all should be open to testing with numerical results. Sure, skepticism is good thing, but not even paying attention to the work is not. Diss'ing someone w/o looking deeply at their work is not a good habit ...

I am parsing his work to try to remove the additive reactions in some samples and to re-list newer oils where they replace older ones. His blog is temporal in that some of the oils have been superseded and that info is further down the commentary, so it does not read as one table or group, but it's still valid within itself and I have learned a lot by forcing myself to re-read and reorganize it to my liking
smile.gif


I think others might too... Known good oils seem to fair well. Snake Oil seems to fair poorly. About what you'd expect. I suspect that some Snake Oil fan-boys are upset, but let them bring their test results (not opinions) forward and see why they more right...
 
Look, If I ever had a machine just like RATs and didn't want it to wear out, I'd follow his oil recommnedations to the letter.

Please read ALL of his work (it's all on the same blog), where he disses HTHS as being meaningless in wear, correlates NOACK to a smoke test, and disses that as well.
 
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