Oil filter suggestion

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
17
Location
Woodbridge, VA
Hello all,
I just got the first oil change done (at the dealer's expense) on my 2013 Honda Civic LX, but I'm already planning my second oil change. I've pretty much settled on just having my trusted local mechanic do the oil change with Napa brand Synthetic motor oil since they have quarts of 0w-20 on sale for $3.49 a quart. They also have a bundle deal where you get 5 quarts and a Napa silver filter for $20. Do you think it would be worth it to just buy the oil at Napa and purchase a Honda OEM oil filter at the dealership or should I save a few bucks and stick with the Napa filter. I know that I'm not technically invalidating the warranty buy using a non-Honda filter, but I'm kind of worried about the long term effects of keeping a "cheaper" oil filter on for what will probably be an 8000 mile or so oil change. Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
 
I know the Honda filter will last 8K miles, not so sure about the Napa Silver. If I were you I would change my own oil with PP 0w20 and Honda OEM or Tough Guard or other quality filter.
 
Thanks for the response, Greg. Unfortunately I live in an apartment complex now and can't change the oil myself. With my previous vehicle, I would just buy whatever the best synthetic oil change bundle Advance, Autozone, or Napa offered and pay my mechanic $15 bucks to change it. Now that I have the new Civic, which is under warranty, I figured the Napa deal was the best bang for the buck for an 8,000 mile oil change. I just want to make sure I'm not putting an inferior filter on there.
 
Another vote for NAPA Gold/Wix filter.

On the NAPA Filters website, they recommend using a Silver filter with 3-4k OCI, recommend the Gold filter for manufacturer specified intervals, and the Platinum filter for extended intervals.

For you application, you would need either a NAPA Gold 7356 or a Wix 57356.

The NAPA Synthetic is a good oil. Many on here claim it is a relative of Valvoline SynPower.

Allegedly (and this was heard from another member on here) NAPA is putting their Gold filters on sale tomorrow for around $3 and some change. Good deal, I hope it's true.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: redhat
Another vote for NAPA Gold/Wix filter.

On the NAPA Filters website, they recommend using a Silver filter with 3-4k OCI, recommend the Gold filter for manufacturer specified intervals, and the Platinum filter for extended intervals.

For you application, you would need either a NAPA Gold 7356 or a Wix 57356.

The NAPA Synthetic is a good oil. Many on here claim it is a relative of Valvoline SynPower.

Allegedly (and this was heard from another member on here) NAPA is putting their Gold filters on sale tomorrow for around $3 and some change. Good deal, I hope it's true.


Thanks for the tip, Redhat! I did a little research on here about Napa Synthetic oil and how it's repackaged Valvoline Synpower. It's definitely a steal at $3.49 a quart. Hopefully the rumors are true about the Napa Gold filters. Right now they're being listed online at $7.49, which is more expensive than the Honda-OEM filters.
 
A lot of folks on here also like the Purolator PureOne PL16410. It can be had at AAP for around $5-6 and then you can apply coupon codes and pickup instore.

Check other NAPA stores near you. The one in my town usually lists their filters about $.50 cheaper. Not sure if the promo is only at select stores or not (of if even true for that matter).
 
Originally Posted By: redhat
A lot of folks on here also like the Purolator PureOne PL16410. It can be had at AAP for around $5-6 and then you can apply coupon codes and pickup instore.

Check other NAPA stores near you. The one in my town usually lists their filters about $.50 cheaper. Not sure if the promo is only at select stores or not (of if even true for that matter).


Good call. I've used Purolators on my other vehicles in the past with no issues. So if you were me, and the price for each filter were about the same, would you go with the Napa Gold, the Pure One, or the Honda OEM? I'm sure I'm splitting hairs since the oil change interval is pretty low, but I'm just curious. Thanks!
 
Honda makes two OEM filters:

15400-PLM-A01 - Made by Filtech
15400-PLM-A02 - Made by Honeywell (parent company of FRAM)

Photo Comparison of Honda A01 and A02

Honda says both are interchangeable, many on here have ran both and like either. Most dealers will more than likely give you an A02 if you go to purchase one. I'm not trying to open up an argument or anything, but if I was going to purchase an OEM Honda filter, I would get an A01. I simply prefer their construction. But my personal recommendation would be between a PureOne or NAPA Gold/Wix. Also to note, CARQUEST Premium Blue filters are identical to NAPA Gold/Wix. CARQUEST Red's are probably similar to NAPA Silvers.
 
Originally Posted By: redhat
Honda makes two OEM filters:

15400-PLM-A01 - Made by Filtech
15400-PLM-A02 - Made by Honeywell (parent company of FRAM)

Photo Comparison of Honda A01 and A02

Honda says both are interchangeable, many on here have ran both and like either. Most dealers will more than likely give you an A02 if you go to purchase one. I'm not trying to open up an argument or anything, but if I was going to purchase an OEM Honda filter, I would get an A01. I simply prefer their construction. But my personal recommendation would be between a PureOne or NAPA Gold/Wix. Also to note, CARQUEST Premium Blue filters are identical to NAPA Gold/Wix. CARQUEST Red's are probably similar to NAPA Silvers.


I definitely appreciate the recommendation. I found the PureOne for less than $5 with a coupon code from Advance. With that and the deal from Napa, I should have my next oil change for about $40 (with labor charges). Thanks!
 
Anytime, spread the knowledge!

Also worth noting, AAP is bundling Castrol GTX SynBlend and a PureOne for $23.99 this month. They do make GTX SynBlend in a 0W-20. Not sure if your AAP carries that grade, but I do think that combo would work well also.
 
Surprised nobody asked but how much does the dealer charge for an oil change? If it works out to same as you paying for oil and filter and than paying a guy 15$ to do it, why not have honda change filter and oil with their 0w20 and oem filter? I also live in an apartment complex and an oil change at my dealer works out to 47$ with tax ( im in canada). With oil and filter here if i get a decent filter and oil itd be 42$ alone not counting added labor..so it negates the cost and time used to go buy the stuff. Again, unless you have a specific oil or filter preference other than oem, why bother?
 
Originally Posted By: rwallac2
Hello all,
I just got the first oil change done (at the dealer's expense) on my 2013 Honda Civic LX, but I'm already planning my second oil change. I've pretty much settled on just having my trusted local mechanic do the oil change with Napa brand Synthetic motor oil since they have quarts of 0w-20 on sale for $3.49 a quart. They also have a bundle deal where you get 5 quarts and a Napa silver filter for $20. Do you think it would be worth it to just buy the oil at Napa and purchase a Honda OEM oil filter at the dealership or should I save a few bucks and stick with the Napa filter. I know that I'm not technically invalidating the warranty buy using a non-Honda filter, but I'm kind of worried about the long term effects of keeping a "cheaper" oil filter on for what will probably be an 8000 mile or so oil change. Thanks in advance for your thoughts!



Cant beat the OEM filter. I know the honda filter can go 8k & the napa silver is good for a 3k oci
 
Since I assume the vehicle is still under warranty there is no point in buying an extended life filter. Your original plan is just fine as long as the oil meets the oem spec.
I just saw a used oil analysis of a vehicle that ran 7500 miles on a puro classic and the insols were stellar which means the filter was still doing its job.
I run all my oil filters at least 10000 miles for the orange can or a puro classic. If I'm using a long life syn filter 20000 is easily attainable if the engine is known to be clean inside.
Many here don't see a point of running the filter longer however as the filter loads up it becomes more efficient and can trap even smaller particle than when new.
That means I'm trapping more and smaller particulate than a new one and maintenance becomes a faster and easier procedure.
To be honest I've noticed in some used oil analysis that the less miles on the oil and filter the higher the insols are,but I'm not making a blanket statement in that regard however I have noticed pretty much across the board that on extended drain intervals the insols are pretty much a non issue with the odd exception such as gross negligence.
Your plan is fine. Follow that routine until the warranty expires then explore your options as far as extended intervals go.
 
Definitely use a premium filter if you're going 8,000 miles on it. Like everyone says, use the Pure One, NAPA Gold or the better Honda filter.
 
Originally Posted By: KB2008X
Definitely use a premium filter if you're going 8,000 miles on it. Like everyone says, use the Pure One, NAPA Gold or the better Honda filter.


I guess you missed that used oil analysis with 7500 miles on a puro classic with less than 1 insols too.
Got any actual data,or cut open filters or any actual experience.
If the oem's are calling for 10000 mile oci with a typical cellulose filter why does this one need something special.
A forum like this with such a wealth of oil info(other than the parrot professionals)has so little filter information and most of what's out there doesn't say much as far as how far an oil filter can actually be effective for in a clean properly maintained engine.


Off topic.
Does anyone have an idea on how a person can go about testing a used filter to establish whether its been overloaded and is too contaminated to allow enough volume to pass without causing a by-pass even.
I was thinking that I could use either compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to establish so form of pressure differential or in some way blow air through and measure the difference from in to out.

I'd like to be able to prove somehow that typically most of us aren't getting all we can out of our filters.
I consider it a no brainer running them longer. When one considers the oil filters absolute efficiency combined with the single pass percentage of removal I look forward to when those numbers start improving.
I compare this to the anti-wear layer of an engines internals when changing the oil. When oil is changed the engines wear metal rates increase per mile as the new oil removes the old oils anti-wear layer. As the oil first oxidizes that's what reaction required to apply the anti-wear layer,and as the interval goes on in miles the wear rates keep dropping.
Well if the oil gets better as miles rack up and the filters get better at removing those particulate that are the most damaging as insols get trapped doesn't it just make sense to extend that mileage as far as you can until reaching the point where the numbers start going the other way.
This reminds me a lot of when Dnewton expressed his point about conventional oil,wear rates and getting the most out of the dollar already spent.
I read a lot of posts from a lot of members who dismissed his entire idea believing that the evidence would show him to be wrong however his data has proven his point entirely and had I been one of those naysayers I'd have been included in the foot in mouth club.
I'm just trying to make clear that a new filter lets larger and more particulate through its pores until,like new oil,reaches that point where its catching all those particulate that would have gone through when it was new,or had the filter just been left on its providing better filtration and unless the engine wasn't properly maintained there is no reason that a filters life cycle can't be extended.
I certainly concur that for an engine of questionable maintenance history its prudent to err on the side of caution however if operating under ideal conditions then there is no reason not yo lengthen its time in service unless of course the mere thought of this invokes fear and will awaken oneself out if a dead sleep with a soaked pillow and beads of sweat streaming down ones cheek then of course throw away your money and opportunity to get that extra little bit of improved filtration.
I wouldn't put myself in a position to risk damage to my motor but once one actually gives some thought to the idea I just don't get why anyone sensible wouldn't take the opportunity to save a couple bucks and deny the used oil analysis even a single ppm extra iron or alum.
I I try to find value where I can and enjoy not spending more than I have to and this is a case of win/win once the risk is completely considered.
I know its only a few bucks but that's not the point. It's the principle of finding more value in what many consider garbage and since the risk is nil why not.


FLAME AWAY.
 
Quote:
Cant beat the OEM filter.....

When it comes to efficiency most anything will beat the 66%@20um A02.

The main difference is the Napa Silver 37356 uses a nitrile adbv as opposed to silicone for OEMs. That doesn't mean it couldn't handle an 8k oci, quite certain filters using nitrile adbv have worked just fine for that oci on a Honda.

Having used many on the Hondas I maintain my preference would be for the P1 PL14610 with silicone adbv which can be obtained at AAP for $4.80 using P20 online code, less with a bigger code. I also like the Napa Gold 7356 'if' it can be obtained on sale.

I've posted several PL14610 dissections from Honda, here's the latest from a 7800 oci also off a Civic. PL14610 ~7800 oci Honda Civic
 
To the OP, your original combo choice is fine, but at todays longer OCIs, I think a higher efficiency filter is a better choice because cleaner oil lasts longer. On top of that, a silicon ADBV is more reliable long term than the lower end nitrile. Not that the nitrile can't make it, it's just that there is less risk of a silicon ADBV failing down the road. This is just a fine tuning suggestion. Bottom line, go Gold if you want to stay in the Napa line.

Originally Posted By: Clevy

Off topic.
Does anyone have an idea on how a person can go about testing a used filter to establish whether its been overloaded and is too contaminated to allow enough volume to pass without causing a by-pass even.
I was thinking that I could use either compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to establish so form of pressure differential or in some way blow air through and measure the difference from in to out.

I'd like to be able to prove somehow that typically most of us aren't getting all we can out of our filters.
I consider it a no brainer running them longer. When one considers the oil filters absolute efficiency combined with the single pass percentage of removal I look forward to when those numbers start improving.
I compare this to the anti-wear layer of an engines internals when changing the oil. When oil is changed the engines wear metal rates increase per mile as the new oil removes the old oils anti-wear layer. As the oil first oxidizes that's what reaction required to apply the anti-wear layer,and as the interval goes on in miles the wear rates keep dropping.
Well if the oil gets better as miles rack up and the filters get better at removing those particulate that are the most damaging as insols get trapped doesn't it just make sense to extend that mileage as far as you can until reaching the point where the numbers start going the other way.
This reminds me a lot of when Dnewton expressed his point about conventional oil,wear rates and getting the most out of the dollar already spent.
I read a lot of posts from a lot of members who dismissed his entire idea believing that the evidence would show him to be wrong however his data has proven his point entirely and had I been one of those naysayers I'd have been included in the foot in mouth club.
I'm just trying to make clear that a new filter lets larger and more particulate through its pores until,like new oil,reaches that point where its catching all those particulate that would have gone through when it was new,or had the filter just been left on its providing better filtration and unless the engine wasn't properly maintained there is no reason that a filters life cycle can't be extended.
I certainly concur that for an engine of questionable maintenance history its prudent to err on the side of caution however if operating under ideal conditions then there is no reason not yo lengthen its time in service unless of course the mere thought of this invokes fear and will awaken oneself out if a dead sleep with a soaked pillow and beads of sweat streaming down ones cheek then of course throw away your money and opportunity to get that extra little bit of improved filtration.
I wouldn't put myself in a position to risk damage to my motor but once one actually gives some thought to the idea I just don't get why anyone sensible wouldn't take the opportunity to save a couple bucks and deny the used oil analysis even a single ppm extra iron or alum.
I I try to find value where I can and enjoy not spending more than I have to and this is a case of win/win once the risk is completely considered.
I know its only a few bucks but that's not the point. It's the principle of finding more value in what many consider garbage and since the risk is nil why not.


FLAME AWAY.


No flames from me. I think a differential pressure gauge might be the simplest setup. You can see it realtime, all the time, and if you compare new reading to the increasing DP as the filter loads, you can then make a judgement call at the end of the OCI. I have such a setup on my truck, as you may recall, and in 15K miles of service, the DP in the P1 I was running didn't increase all that much... though it did increase. There will always be SOME bypassing at select times but even though I was running a 10W30 (more than a grade heavier than spec'ed), it was seldom bypassing and when it did so, it was at predictable times (cold starts, high revs before the oil was fully warm, etc.). Now that I have the correct grade of oil in (5W20) DP is about half of what the 10W30 had and the filter stays father away from bypass even in those predictable times. In fact, in normal driving, this combo has yet to bypass (that I have noticed). I've been in the midst of harvest and winter wheat planting, so I haven't gotten back to my oil filter study and datalogging with different filters but that is on the agenda.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top