Oil Filter Relocation Kit...

[GP82]

...effect oil pump operation?

I have a Toyota Starlet and i have just installed this oil filter relocation kit;

http://www.autoaccessorystore.com/products/2164_b.jpg

The reason i installed was to make oil filter change's easier as it was in a very hard to access location + i had gauges to install which i can now hook the sensor's onto the relocation kit.

I have the oil filter positioned about a foot (30cm) above where it originally used to be housed. I have used one meter length's of oil hose so the oil pump will have to move the oil one meter to get to the oil filter then return back another meter. Will there be any adverse effects to the oil pressure?

I'm jus' abit worried about cold starts because the car has a turbocharger that receives it's supply of oil after the oil has been filtered?

I've jus' got a K&N filter which activates an anti drain back valve upon shutdown of the engine and hope this may help so i don't run dry on startup and hope it does it's job.

All help much appreciated.
Hits.

 

[Gary Allan]

It all depends. If this is a "packaged deal" for your engine, I'm sure that they took the peak oil volume into consideration. In my experience with more common oil flows, 1/2 (#8) presents no problem. I'd even venture to say that #6 would manage well.

The height was an issue for me. If the lines don't have a decent dip in them, air may be able to migrate to the filter as it leaks back. After enough air hits the filter, it will just gravity drain just as easily forward or backward.

You can install check valves. They should keep things from draining in either direction. You need ball:seat sprung checks.

I'm not familiar with your (speculation) 4E-FTE with CT9 turbocharger engine, so I don't know if it's of inordinate volume or not. I suspect if you put a big enough filter on the remote, it might offset any lacking in the oil line size in exchange for any apparent upper volume issues with the filter.

 

[GP82]

Ok then, thankyou for your reply! Yes, it's the 4EFTE with CT9 turbocharger. Ok so everything was installed, i disconnected the power to the fuel pump and just cranked the engine over in three reps for a duration of ten second's each time to get the oil up and in around the engine.

Reconnected the fuel pump and started her up, ran to the front of the car to see for any leaks, so far it's ok on idle. I just filled the rad up with water because i had drained the previous coolant and was just keeping an eye on the rad water level with the rad cap off just to let trapped air out, the water got to temperature so i went back inside the car and i see the dreaded oil lamp light on.

I have an oil pressure gauge which is getting it's feed from the remote oil filter end of the relocation kit. It was reading 3kg/cm2 (43psi) on idle. Is this ok or too low oil pressure at idle? Should i disregard the oil lamp light on the cluster?

I have looked at the setup twice to make sure everything was plumbed in correctly and everything is as it should be.

 

[GP82]

I forgot to say that 3kg/cm2 (43psi) is when the car is upto temperature. On a cold start, the gauge is reading 4.2kg/cm2 (60 psi). The oil light on the cluster remains on and has got me worried.

 

[Gary Allan]

You're obviously not experiencing any noise or other signs of distress. It's very easy to reverse bias the hoses. I would have thought that if you managed to get the thing to warm up, that the hoses are in correct "polarity".

..but the OEM light being on troubles me. Remember that the oil flow through the filter is counter intuitive. You see the BIG threaded stud and think that it's where the oil comes from, not where it returns to.

If this were the case, you would have most likely heard oil starvation upon lighting it off. The ADBV would have to be fragmented to allow flow. In that case, your remote located pressure sender would see the pressure, even if no flow was getting to the engine.

It's hard to say how your OEM light is wired. My Peugeot 504 would light when the filter was clogged. I don't know how they did it unless they had it set up as a differential switch ..which is unlikely. It bothers me more that I can't figure out how to do it myself with a single point sender. The change in viscosity alone would trigger it given the thresholds that would be required in terms of minimum downstream pressure.


Do yourself a favor and temporarily plug the sender off at the remote and tap into where the OEM sender is. If you see good indications ..then go back. If you see no indication, you need to evaluate things.

First make sure that the OEM sender has the wire on it. Unhook the wire and note the light (on or off). Then ground the wire and the opposite state should be apparent. Some are common sense; when the wire's off ..the light is on. Some are not and will allow you to drive in ignorant bliss thinking that your light will warm you of a problem ..while it's happily swinging in the breeze and leaving the light off.

 

[daves66nova]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
. It's very easy to reverse bias the hoses.

Uuhhh,what's that?

 

[GP82]

Originally Posted By: daves66nova
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
. It's very easy to reverse bias the hoses.

Uuhhh,what's that?


I think he is referring to the flow of oil from the engine to the filter and flow coming back from the filter into the engine. The center hole of the filter is where the filtered oil is returned to the engine and a possible cause for my oil light coming on could be the reason of having the flow and return pipe incorrectly hooked up on one side, for example on the remote end you could have flow into the return and the return pipe into the flow where as on the engine block you have it hooked up the opposite way.

 

[GP82]

Ok Gary thankyou for your reply! There is no noise or any signs of distress. My oil temperature gauge which is taking it's feed from the sump indicates that the engine oil is getting to operating temps (i see 80 degrees celcius within 12-15 mins on idle using 5w30 semi synthetic oil) If the piping was plumbed incorrectly i'm guessing the engine would make alot of noise pretty sharpish upon startup?

I jus' checked to see if the oil is flowing to the oil filter and returning by listening to the flow with a flat head screwdriver on the line's and my ear on the scrwedriver's handle. I could definantly hear the pressure and flow of oil from a cold start!

I also changed the oil filter for a K&N with the remote relocation kit so i will get another filter jus' to rule the K&N being faulty which i doubt, but the oil light still has me worried! I will check the wiring for the oil switch and report back, but prior to installing the remote relocation kit the oil light would turn off within a second of starting the engine.

I had a look at the OEM sender, there is the exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe and some oil line's restricting me access to the sender, but i will have to get them out the way for this one, because if there is no pressure there like you say, this could end in tears for me, but first i will look at the OEM sender's wiring. I hope it's just that! Thanks again!

 

[Gary Allan]

Yes, you correctly interpreted "reverse bias"

The filter being a virtual diode/check valve.


Well, if you've got flow (and most assuredly you do) and the pressure is adequate (which it is) then you've successfully completed the job. The oddity is the untidy annoying detail that doesn't add up .....and everything has to add up.

Please update us. I'd love to figure out how ample flow and pressure, routed to the same points, are producing this light.