Oil Filter Magnet for Powerstroke 6.7

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My Pic with the Filter mags on the filter shell (I used varsol to wash away
oil leaving a clear view of the particles caught) equates to 5ppm Iron, instead 20ppm before.

The oil plug Pic with all that metal on it is actually scary, looks like 300ppm Iron in the oil or more!!

I'd the shocked as heck!
 
My Pic with the Filter mags on the filter shell (I used varsol to wash away
oil leaving a clear view of the particles caught) equates to 5ppm Iron, instead 20ppm before.

The oil plug Pic with all that metal on it is actually scary, looks like 300ppm Iron in the oil or more!!

I'd the shocked as heck!
 
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud

The oil plug Pic with all that metal on it is actually scary, looks like 300ppm Iron in the oil or more!!

I'd the shocked as heck!


What are you talking about? You do realize that if all that metal on the drain plug magnet (again, it was during engine break-in) was spread out on the inside of the oil filter like how a FiterMag collects it, that it would probably be about the same amount of material.

I still have that truck, and it runs super strong and doesn't burn any oil between 5,000 mile oil changes.

This is what it looked like at the oil change at 43,000 miles. Way less material.

 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud

The oil plug Pic with all that metal on it is actually scary, looks like 300ppm Iron in the oil or more!!

I'd the shocked as heck!


What are you talking about? You do realize that if all that metal on the drain plug magnet (again, it was during engine break-in) was spread out on the inside of the oil filter like how a FiterMag collects it, that it would probably be about the same amount of material.

I still have that truck, and it runs super strong and doesn't burn any oil between 5,000 mile oil changes.

This is what it looked like at the oil change at 43,000 miles. Way less material.





I'm glad it's way down with your newest pic.

But all the material I had with the Filter Mag was not as much as what you had, it's fair to say a break in on a Powerstroke 6.7 is way different then a V6 in a FWD GM car! lol In my pic I rinsed out the oil with varsol so you see the actual wear metals when the pic was taken.

At the same time my magnetic oil plug had nothing visible on it, which surprised me. I see that the oil plug mag you have is substantial compared to others. Mine has a 1" neodynium that's strong enough to pick up a 12" adjustable wrench and I still got nothing on it!

My iron before mags in the UOA was 20PPM and down to 5PPM after 2 filter mags and other mags added. Based on adding more mags as I went along, it's fair to say the more mags you add the better the results.

Since Filter Mags can cost $45 or so, if you have access to at least 50% of the diameter of your oil filter adding cheapo bar mags will help pick up more before you spring for a Filter mag!
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Oil filter canisters are thicker than .010", they are between about .013-.020". I can see magnetic drain plugs as there is little flow in an oil pan, but on a filter case? I would think as the magnet catches particles, when the engine is started cold, and may go into bypass, the biggest particles held on the can wall would come off and go through the bypass hole.



The biggest particles wont be trapped by the media but held against it by pressure and will fall into suspension when the engine is shut off.

By not even attempting to hold them magnetically you practically insure they will go through the bypass in a cold start event - Especially in dome down scenario.

Why not at least attempt to hold them?

In contrast with I hate auto frauds dome end magnet position (whom I usually almost always agree with) a dome end magnet in a dome down filter can be quite effective as the particles not trapped in media will fall to the bottom and the mag holds them.

I put magnets everywhere and in high load apps like boat engines and RV's I find stuff on every single one of them.



UD
 
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Regular spin-on oil filters for cars like Fram, Wix, Amsoil and others are all .010" thick steel housings, never seen thicker in car applications. Checked each with a micrometer. Remember auto filters are made as cheap as possible and have a low pressure pressure in day to day use.

When a FilterMag is stuck on one of those, the amount of pull inside the can is surprising!
On high pressure hydraulic filters with a 500PSI burst limit, those have .030" thick cans, a big difference!

I'm with UD, I use 'em where ever I can and look for better ways to do it at each oil change!
 
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud

Regular spin-on oil filters for cars like Fram, Wix, Amsoil and others are all .010" thick steel housings, never seen thicker in car applications. Checked each with a micrometer. Remember auto filters are made as cheap as possible and have a low pressure pressure in day to day use.

When a FilterMag is stuck on one of those, the amount of pull inside the can is surprising!
On high pressure hydraulic filters with a 500PSI burst limit, those have .030" thick cans, a big difference!

I'm with UD, I use 'em where ever I can and look for better ways to do it at each oil change!


Let's see a picture of your micrometer and how you hold it. Or a link to the brands and type you have. I am pretty expert at using a micrometer and have measured between 13-20 mils +/- 1 mil. I only buy name brand filters.
 
Thanks 2015_PSD...Just ordered Gold Plug MPO2T...fits the 2014 F350 and shop manual says same 14MM drain plug. Changing at next oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud

Regular spin-on oil filters for cars like Fram, Wix, Amsoil and others are all .010" thick steel housings, never seen thicker in car applications. Checked each with a micrometer. Remember auto filters are made as cheap as possible and have a low pressure pressure in day to day use.

When a FilterMag is stuck on one of those, the amount of pull inside the can is surprising!
On high pressure hydraulic filters with a 500PSI burst limit, those have .030" thick cans, a big difference!

I'm with UD, I use 'em where ever I can and look for better ways to do it at each oil change!


Let's see a picture of your micrometer and how you hold it. Or a link to the brands and type you have. I am pretty expert at using a micrometer and have measured between 13-20 mils +/- 1 mil. I only buy name brand filters.


Any ball-anvil micrometer (Fowler, Mitutoyo, etc) can measure thickness of the filter shell as long as you stay away from burrs from the oil filter cutter.

Once cut open, the auto filter shells yield easily when you squeeze the cut end. FilterMags or individual neodymium bar magnets provide a good strong field thru these filters. High pressure hydraulic filters have much thicker shells that shunt the magnets, so don’t work nearly as well, that was my point. One of the earlier comments claiming magnets would not work at all.
 
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