Oil filter for high oil pressure track car?

T

txbdan

Joined
May 29, 2024
Messages
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Hi all,

I'm running GM LFX (3.6l V6) in my Mazda RX-8 track car. I'm going to install a remote oil filter head soon and want to plan for the right filter. This motor is basically stock with just a tune, but it may be a bit unusual in that these consistently run a 90+psi oil pressure on track. The OEM filter is a PF63 which, I believe, has a somewhat high bypass pressure.

I'd like to take advantage of the flexibility I have with a remote oil filter head to go bigger, higher flow, etc? But I need something with good flow and a high(er) bypass pressure. Any recommendations?

Also, I'd like to mount the filter so it's sticking up and screws downward on the mount, so I think an anti drain back valve is probably a good idea?

Thanks
 
AC Delco UPF63 Gold has thicker canister for higher pressure. I use it on my built LS
K&N gold oil filer has thick case also. Wix has racing oil filter, cross the pf63 to wix number add R to end of part number.
 
FE8a has a burst pressure of 500psi.

IMG_8361.webp
 
txbdan said:
This motor is basically stock with just a tune, but it may be a bit unusual in that these consistently run a 90+psi oil pressure on track. The OEM filter is a PF63 which, I believe, has a somewhat high bypass pressure.

I'd like to take advantage of the flexibility I have with a remote oil filter head to go bigger, higher flow, etc? But I need something with good flow and a high(er) bypass pressure.
Click to expand...
The filter bypass valve setting has nothing to do with the oil pressure you see on the oil pressure gauge - if that's what you're thinking.

If the oil pump is stock, it's not going to put out any more flow, and putting the filter remote doesn't really change the way the filter flows or bypasses. It could however effect the oil pump output if the remote system adds too much dP between the pump and engine oiling system.

The most important thing with a remote oil filter setup is to ensure the dP of the hose length is as small as possible. This means use as large of ID hose as possible, and as short as possible hose lengths. Also, this can be very impactiful in very cold weather start-ups when the oil is very cold and thick.

The only advantage of going with a remote filter is if you can use a much larger sized filter. Why not just use as large as possible on the stock filter mount.
 
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You need to look at burst pressure for the oil filter and not the bypass pressure. Those are unrelated.

If you're super concerned about a filter bursting, I would use a K&N Gold (the one with the nut) or a racing filter from Fram or Wix. Unless you're running 20w-50 in winter with a high volume high flow oil pump, blowing up oil filters shouldn't really be an issue.

I wouldn't bother with a remote mount oil filter if your oil filter is already in a serviceable location. Sometimes it is best to keep it simple and reduce the number of failure points. If you do want to go down that road, it might be worth looking in to a Clear View Filtration filter mount so you can more easily see if you have trash going through your system.
 
If you're using this exclusively as a track car, then perhaps use a Wix filter made for racing. They are made more robust and with high flow in mind.
Obviously warranty is not a concern with a GM motor in an RX-8 ...


Racing Filters

WIX Racing oil, air and fuel filters, along with WIX cast aluminum racing mounting bases, are designed for high-performance and extreme racing conditions.
www.wixfilters.com www.wixfilters.com
 
thescreensavers said:
LFX runs 90+ PSI at hot oil temps?
Click to expand...

Yep. I have a logger logging both the GM sensor on the CANBUS and an aftermarket sensor. Apparently it's normal for these engines. I'm running Mobile 1 0w40.

ZeeOSix said:
The filter bypass valve setting has nothing to do with the oil pressure you see on the oil pressure gauge - if that's what you're thinking.

If the oil pump is stock, it's not going to put out any more flow, and putting the filter remote doesn't really change the way the filter flows or bypasses. It could however effect the oil pump output if the remote system adds too much dP between the pump and engine oiling system.

The most important thing with a remote oil filter setup is to ensure the dP of the hose length is as small as possible. This means use as large of ID hose as possible, and as short as possible hose lengths. Also, this can be very impactiful in very cold weather start-ups when the oil is very cold and thick.

The only advantage of going with a remote filter is if you can use a much larger sized filter. Why not just use as large as possible on the stock filter mount.
Click to expand...

Right, but for some reason I thought then PF63 had a higher than normal BP pressure. They upped it at some point in its production life or something. But I guess if im able to reduce the flow restriction with a bigger filter, the dP across it should drop too.

I'm using -10 AN lines to run from the block through this filter, through a remote oil cooler, and back. I'm running a spin-on PF63 now, but I need to more to a remote for packaging reasons. I also have a leak issue at the filter now that I can't solve so I'm hoping deleting that stuff and moving to remote solves that as well. Sort of a long story.

It's a trailered track car so shouldn't normally start up when its super cold out, but it is still registered so its possible I'll hoon around or test drive in the winter. Don't want to limit myself too much. Also some track days are cold.
 
Old gm 3,800 series 2 engines ran over 100psi. Most vehicles run around 70 to 80psi before the pressure limiter opens up.
I say run the most common oil filter in the free world, a 3/4-16 thread filter head and stick a fram synthetic endurance on there, like an fe8.
I think the fe8 has a 12psid bypass.
 
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K&N used to be the racing filter, but its gone downhill with new ownership. Not sure it matters if its a decent filter. It's likely to be in bypass when racing.
 
oil pan 4 said:
Old gm 3,800 series 2 engines ran over 100psi. Most vehicles run around 70 to 80psi before the pressure limiter opens up.
I say run the most common oil filter in the free world, a 3/4-16 thread filter head and stick a fram synthetic endurance on there, like an fe8.
I think the fe8 has a 12psid bypass.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's a good point. I should go with the most universal thread on my filter head, is 3/4-16 it? Seems like it. Then I'll have lots of options.

Another question, if I mount the filter so it screws down onto the head, will it still drain back into the system if I pop a hole in it or crack the seal if it has an anti drain back valve? I'd assume I do want a ADV though, right?
 
txbdan said:
Another question, if I mount the filter so it screws down onto the head, will it still drain back into the system if I pop a hole in it or crack the seal if it has an anti drain back valve?
Click to expand...
It would depend on the location of the filter and routing of the hoses. The filter would have to be higher than the hoses for it to drsin under gravity. If the filter is mounted base down, and you punch a hole in the top, it may or may not drain down. Only one way to find out

You could also put a low amount of air pressure (10 PSI) on the punch hole with an air gun nozzle. That will push all the oil out of the filter and out through the center tube and back to the sump

txbdan said:
I'd assume I do want a ADV though, right?
Click to expand...
Yes, especially if you use the air gun nozzle trick described above.
 
I say mount it so the filter is theads up or threads horizontal.
With a paper filter and when the engine is off some of the chunks of dirt will slide down the filter and go to the bottom. With synthetic media that's not really supposed to happen as much.
Threads down is probably the worst.
When I change oil on Subarus I crack the filter and unscrew it till I hear the the slurp, slurp, slurp sound from oil draining back even with anti drain back valve. Let the oil filter drain as much as possible so I don't spill oil everywhere when taking it off.
Imo threads down is the worst.
Threads up and tilted 45 degrees is probably the best.

Looks like you ran a pf63 which has a 22psid bypass pressure. You can find higher psid bypass in 3/4-16 filters no problem.
A big old FE8 has a bypass of 11 to 17psid and it's unlikely it will ever bypass.
 
oil pan 4 said:
With a paper filter and when the engine is off some of the chunks of dirt will slide down the filter and go to the bottom. With synthetic media that's not really supposed to happen as much.
Threads down is probably the worst.
Click to expand...
If the filter is mounted base down, and the bypass valve is in the dome end, then that's the ideal mounting position if you're worried about debris collecting when the engine is off.
 
I could possibly do horizontal, but I can't do filter hanging from below because the radiator is below that spot. The filter head will go where this t-stat currently is. I need to keep the oil lines running along that area/height so the only space really is above.
IMG_3305.webp
 
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