Oil/ filter advice - 2012 F150 5.0

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
4
Location
Wyoming
I have traded in my FJ Cruiser on a 2012 F150 5.0 and am seeking guidance on oil and filter now that I have time to do the oil changes myself. Here’s the rundown on the truck:
Mileage: 80300
Service history: spotty, according to Carfax. Several listings for dealer oil changes so I’d be guessing MC 5w20 semisyn. Some mileage gaps in between. One written listing in the OM for Mobil 1. Current fill is MC 5w20, current filter is MC FL500S.
Current mods: tune, AEM drop in filter, 170* thermostat, oil catch can
Current oil stash: M1 5w30, PP 5w20
Driving: several daily short trips (1.5 miles), with occasional weekend highway trips of 40-100 miles
Location: Wyoming
I’ve seen the 5w20/5w30 discussions and I’m tempted to get use 5w30 since I don’t have a warranty. However, I’m not afraid to admit, I’ve got a lot to learn. Any help would be much appreciated!
 
I used both Mobil 1 5W-20 and 5W-30 in my 2013 5.0 F-150. The engine seemed to rev quicker esp when cold with the 20 weight but either is fine. I use MC or Wix/Napa Gold filters. One thing to keep in mind is the MC air filters seem to have less media surface area and need to be changed by 20k miles. The Wix air filters seem to have twice the surface area so I use them. Enjoy the truck. The 5.0 is a good engine. I had a slight piston slap when idling, a common observation, but it never caused an issue while I had it for 60k miles. The 30 weight did seem to quiet it a little. With your short trips, I would probably go with 5k oil change intervals.
 
I would use the 5W20 PP during the upcoming winter since you have it & switch to the Mobil 5W30 after your stash of 5W20 is depleted. Back when I had my 06 Explorer with the 4.0L. -- I "always" used a Motorcraft Oil Filter until sold with over 180,xxx miles on it. Use what you have in stash and dont lose a wink of sleep over either choice.

Dale
 
Any oil from the major oil companies that meets the recommended specs and any quality brand of oil filter. Honestly there is little to learn [ though discernment is the hard part] it is all in the owners manual.
 
I currently have Havoline DS syn blend 5W20 HM in mine. I have no perceptible difference in noise running 20wts vs the PP10W30 that came out.
The engine is simply not picky. I run MC filters as well.
 
Thank you for all of the input! Good to know a lot of it is just pretty much common sense, reading the manual, and whatever brand appeals in the proper weight. I think because of going down the rabbit holes on here into additive packs and jargon, it just seemed too complicated. Hoping to post up some uoas and contributing to the group!
 
Get rid of that thermostat!
I'm using SuperTech Syn 0w-20 in my 5w-20 spec'd Ranger. About the same mileage as yours. I like it!
The only reason I swapped the thermostat was because it’s tuned and my tuner requires a 170* thermostat. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have messed with it! 😄

What year is your Ranger? I had a 2001 that I should have kept. Great trucks!
 
It's in my sig. 2005 Ranger Edge extended cab. Bought new for the wife and not getting rid of it. She got tired of it so I took the helm. About 87,000 miles. Gibson headers and cat back exhaust with mild tune. Trouble free. 20 around town and 24-25 on highway trips.
 
Thread resurrection (sorry, blame "similar threads")

Who's tuning it that they think (are you?) you're drag racing it? get rid of the stat, it's doing nothing but arsing around with the temperature until your cooling system hits saturation. Engines run more efficiently closer to boiling point. If you're having temp fluctuations, it's the aftermarket stat, regardless of temp, common problem, run a MC one.

5w30 runs fine in mine, i run Gas truck - if you're in Australia, Ford changed the spec to 5w30 retroactively.
Set your oil life monitor to 50% each time you change it, those short trips will kill the oil in this big engine.

MC filter is a good one, other brands will work well too, but at more expense.

Finally, make sure you check your oil after a ~8 mile+ run, wait 15 minutes after shut off - a cold check should have the oil about half way between the lower and upper marks, otherwise it'll be overfilled when hot. Mine ticked at hot idle with too much oil in it.
 
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