Oil extraction is great!

I saw a YT video about someone doing this method, car in question was a VW Golf. Let`s just say the extractor did not suck up all oil and there was about 0,5 qts of old oil left in the pan (if i remember correctly), amount of oil left measured after the oil sump plug was removed. So it might be conveinient but also risky as old oil left will contaminate new oil.
 
I saw a YT video about someone doing this method, car in question was a VW Golf. Let`s just say the extractor did not suck up all oil and there was about 0,5 qts of old oil left in the pan (if i remember correctly), amount of oil left measured after the oil sump plug was removed. So it might be conveinient but also risky as old oil left will contaminate new oil.
There's old oil in there if you drain to the last drip through the plug. The oil coolers and galleries in our cars never drain.
 
I saw a YT video about someone doing this method, car in question was a VW Golf. Let`s just say the extractor did not suck up all oil and there was about 0,5 qts of old oil left in the pan (if i remember correctly), amount of oil left measured after the oil sump plug was removed. So it might be conveinient but also risky as old oil left will contaminate new oil.
It can depend on the vehicle, suction hose placement and user error when it comes to removing all the oil from the sump.
After I did the first oil extractions on my 2018 Mazda and 2018 Toyota I removed the drain bolt and got a few drips from the Toyota and not a single drop from the Mazda.
With a warm engine it takes about 5 minutes to pull 4.5 quarts of oil using my manual pump extractor and pumping it around 12-15 times all together.
 
I plan to use an extractor for an upcoming diff service as it has no drain plug and I don’t want to deal with the PITA of removing the spare tire and whatnot in order to get easy access to the bolts.
 
I use a vacuum type extractor. It sucks everything out, remove the drain plug, and nothing comes out at all. While I still have to crawl under to change the filter, mine is up on 4 jack stands anyhow because I rotate tires at the same time. With the extractor, I don't have the splatter, and "miss the bucket" spill with a regular drain pan, and its easy to pour into a recycle bucket.


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My vacuum extractor is a 5 Gallon propane tank and a Harbor Freight vacuum pump.
 
I plan to use an extractor for an upcoming diff service as it has no drain plug and I don’t want to deal with the PITA of removing the spare tire and whatnot in order to get easy access to the bolts.
Please document your work. One piece of advice is, get the fluid hot.
 
I plan to use an extractor for an upcoming diff service as it has no drain plug and I don’t want to deal with the PITA of removing the spare tire and whatnot in order to get easy access to the bolts.
Put a piece of coat hanger or other wire inside the extraction hose to get it to hold a bend at the fill hole and get to the bottom for extracting the old fluid. And yeah, gear oil is slow and thick unless you drive a bit to warm it up.
 
Please document your work. One piece of advice is, get the fluid hot.
I document a lot and upload it to carfax. That covers me for warranty. It accepts photos, so I take pics of new oil, old oil, filters, and receipts. It’s probably overkill.
 
If you have larger sediments in the oil pan, either your OCI is too long or you're not using the correct cert/approval for your engine.
Tell that to the people running Valvoline Restore and Protect or one of the various "cleaning" oils.

I document a lot and upload it to carfax. That covers me for warranty. It accepts photos, so I take pics of new oil, old oil, filters, and receipts. It’s probably overkill.
Owner uploaded information to the Carfax portal does not appear on an actual Carfax report.

I am curious about how well the diff extract goes.
It works fine, but is a terrible "wallet flush" service since the magnets do not get cleaned. Unlike automatics, differentials actually generate a lot of debris that adheres to the magnet.
 
I've never understood the "large sediments" argument. Why would there be large sediments, and why do we assume these would flow out of the sump bung and not through the extraction tube? We have more serious problems if there are large sediments in the bottom of the sump! We are talking about an oil change, not an engine rebuild.

Re diff oil, on most vehicles there is a magnet on the lower bolt, it would be nice to remove and clean that guy. I know that on some newer X-drive BMWs, you have to remove a bunch of stuff to be able to access that drain bolt, so most places just extract it out of the fill hole. Stupid design if you ask me.

I just did an OC on a Honda Accord with the K24 with the stupid oil filter placement, and pretty stupid drain placement too. After the drain reached a slow trickle, I closed it back up and then used the extractor via the dipstick tube, I must've pulled out another 0.5L of oil. When refilling, 5L of fresh oil put the level at about 75% on the dipstick. In the past, 5L would put me right on the max mark, so I think this is another win for the extractor pulling out more oil than what I would normally get from the drain. I then used the extractor pump to remove the oil from my drain pan and pump it into the container - mess free!
 
Here is a video of a garage in the UK doing a driveline service on a BMW without removing the rear diff cover, it doesn't even have a drain.

 
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