Oil Consumption & RotellaT Syn

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Got my UOA.
The TNB was 3.0
I have lead in the oil, 17. 3 is average.
There was gas in the oil too, 2.8%

Blackstone says the lead is from bearings and could be from the gas in the oil.

Could the gas in the oil cause my strange oil consumption?

I might have a leaking injector. Can a FI cleaner (either one added to the gas tank or through the fuel rail) correct this problem or do I have to send them it for a testing and cleaning?
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Cary, 0W40 is obviously not a good choice for his application. If he is burning a quart or more per tank of gas and it does not do this as badly with other oils it is a no brainer. OW40 is known to make an oil burning situation even worse. It might be a fine oil in a vechile that is not diluteing the oil with fuel and does not already have a consuption issue. Remeber his post did not ask anything about wear metals it is about consuption!

Once he cleans out pre-exsisting deposits and fix's his fuel diloution issue 0W40 might work ok but until then 15W40 is about the only thing that might hold up!


John,

I was responding to your post that the 0w-40 was not a good choice for this motor and is nothing more than a glorified 0w-30. I have run two UOA's of the 0w-40 on a 1996 Landcruiser (the same 1fze motor) and the wear numbers that were returned were among the lowest that have been seen on this board for any oil in any motor. Is the Ow-40 a light 40 weight, yes. But it is really no different than everyone's beloved German Castrol that is a heavy 30 weight. Both have the same HTHS and carry similar approvals, and for most motors seem to be a better choice than the very thin Mobil 1 xW-30 oils.

Obviously, the fuel dilution issue has to be dealt with as it is contributing. I agree that the Delo 15w40 is the best thing to use until then with shorter change intervals.

Also, this model engine seems to be prone to using more oil when run hard. I can run mine around town for 3000 miles with no conumption but will then burn a quart in 1000 miles on a road trip (I run it hard, 80-95mph, full throttle climbing hills). Unlike most, this doesn't concern me as it seems to be an issue inherent to the motor and doesn't result in any problems aside from the consumption. If I had to guess, I would say it is because the block is based on the earlier toyota 3fe which was not designed to go over about 4500 rpm and was a real low rpm motor.
 
quote:

Originally posted by landtoy80:


99, do you think I might be better off doing the MAF injector swap over having mine cleaned and tested?
MAF is a LandCruiser parts house that will exchange you injectors for ones that have been cleaned and tested.


Either way you're going to have to pull the injectors off the engine, so the decision is totally up to you. If it were me I'd just get all new ones and wouldn't bother getting the old ones flowed/cleaned. If money is a issue because new injectors can be pricy, I'd have the old ones flowed/cleaned to see which one or ones are bad and then just replace those. If you buy reman'd injectors make sure they come with at least a 1-3 year/unlimited miles warranty...you never know what you'll get with reman'd parts so buyer beware.
 
Cary, You totaly missed the point! You are too interested in being right! No one is talking about "your" LandCruiser! We are talking about his LandCruiser! Their is no way you could defend 0W40 as being the best choice for his application if you had simply read his post! My origanal post did not qualify my statement because I was talking about his application not all Land Cruiser in General! I latter qualified my origanal post for your benifit so tht you could see why I said what I said!

In his application we already know he is burning a quart of 0W40 in less then a tank of gas! He wants to get the consuption under control. 15W40 is his best shot at doing that until he fix's the fuel diluotion and deals with any seal or depost issues.

On the 0W40 issue while it is a good oil it is not a "GREAT" oil. I am parapharseing Terry Dyson when I call it an "Over Glorified 0W30"!! The HTHS of the M1 0W40 is basicly the same as GC 0W30, Esso XD30 0W30,S3K 5W30 and a bunch of other oil. WHile I like the fact that it's HTHS is higher then 3.5 it has sheared in more then one application back to a 30Wt. and in many applications but not all it causes increaded iron in the UOA.

I used to recomend 0W40 until TSUV 5W40 became widely available. Soon M1 EP 10W40 will also be available. What I like about M10W40 is that it is thin enough not to bother people with tiny little 4 cylinder engines. Often someone with a Coralla or simalar sized engine will complain about a 15W40 or even a 5W40 boging down their engine. M1 0W40 does not bog down anyones engine it has an HTHS higher then 3.5 and a good additive package. If Mobile would make a decent 30Wt. with an HTHS of 3.5 or higher available in the USA I would never recomend M1 0W40!!
 
John,

Go back and re-read my post. Let me summarize since you seem to have missed it:

1) I said that I agreed that until he gets the fuel dilution issue under control I agree that 15w40 mineral for short intervals is his best choice;

2) Your original post reads: 250,000 miles is a lot of miles! Now I realise that these engines will run forever but parts are still wearing. I would suspect that a build of deposits in the engine combined with natural hardening of the seals has something to do with it. These engines are known to burn some oil with lots of high speed driveing as well. I think that Roteela-T is at least part of the problem. While it is an OK HDEO their are better. Have you tried Delvac-1 or the cheaper more available Mobil-1 TSUV 5W40?

Your original recommendation is in general and mentions nothing about being specific to his engine. In fact you suggest that he use a synth over an HDEO.

3) Your second posts reads: M1 0W40 is not a good oil for this application at all as your experince has pointed out! M1 0W40 is more like a 0W30 with a nice HTHS then a true 40Wt. onceit has been in use in the engine!

M1EP 15W50, Delvac-1, M1 TSUV 5W40 and Delo 15W40 are all going to probably work better then Rotella-T Synthetic. I have never seen Rotella hold up in an engine that had a propecinity for consuption at all. In a sound engine R-T Syn works fine! Remeber it is a GIII oil not a GIV or GV oil!


If you have not done so already you need to use some Auto-Rx and follow the directions! It is almost guranteed that you have deposit issues, ring issues and seal hardening that is at least contributeing to your consuption issue!!! You would have to have guides and ring worn to h e l l to consume that much oil!

Still discussing synthetics, nothing about him using mineral oil until he figures out what is going on. You go on to bash M1 0w-40 as an inferior oil as not a good choice for this application.

4) When I point out that the 0w-40 works great in this engine design, you change your tune: Cary, 0W40 is obviously not a good choice for his application. If he is burning a quart or more per tank of gas and it does not do this as badly with other oils it is a no brainer. OW40 is known to make an oil burning situation even worse. It might be a fine oil in a vechile that is not diluteing the oil with fuel and does not already have a consuption issue. Remeber his post did not ask anything about wear metals it is about consuption!

And for the first time you mention that he might want to use a HDEO until he gets the problem figured out:

Once he cleans out pre-exsisting deposits and fix's his fuel diloution issue 0W40 might work ok but until then 15W40 is about the only thing that might hold up!

5) I addressed all of your points, but in a fit or irony you don't respond to my statements but instead say:

Cary, You totaly missed the point! You are too interested in being right! No one is talking about "your" LandCruiser! We are talking about his LandCruiser! Their is no way you could defend 0W40 as being the best choice for his application if you had simply read his post! My origanal post did not qualify my statement because I was talking about his application not all Land Cruiser in General! I latter qualified my origanal post for your benifit so tht you could see why I said what I said!

I think the fact speak for themself quite well here. Perhaps you should take your own advice and re-read the thread instead of focusing on being so right.

Cary
 
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