Oil Consumption & RotellaT Syn

Pennzoil motor oil
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I like Rotella Syn and have been using it as an alternative to Mobil 1. It may be better in some measures.

From your codes it sounds like your O2 sensors need replacing and/or your injectors. Bad fuel/air mixture can take its toll.
 
250,000 miles is a lot of miles! Now I realise that these engines will run forever but parts are still wearing. I would suspect that a build of deposits in the engine combined with natural hardening of the seals has something to do with it. These engines are known to burn some oil with lots of high speed driveing as well. I think that Roteela-T is at least part of the problem. While it is an OK HDEO their are better. Have you tried Delvac-1 or the cheaper more available Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W40?

If you have not already I would use Auto-Rx to remove these deposits and recondition the seals. After the Auto-Rx is done try Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W40 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50 for the warm months!Delo 15W40 is $6 a gallon and is a great summer oil for spring and summer oil for these engines!!!

[ April 07, 2005, 10:53 AM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
 
I would have to agree that is looks like some degree of shearing is going on. I would be prone to try one of the hdeo in 15w40. At this point w/ the mileage on the engine, old seals and all, you are going to have to experiment to find a oil that meets your driving needs, especially if you are not willing to go the auto-rx route of reconditioning seals and cleaning the crap out.
 
There is obviously some oil fatigue factor involved here ..otherwise your conusmption would be linear and not expontentially increasing. Your consumption reads like a "half life".

Do a used oil analysis. change the filter out and use that oil ..you're not looking for wear metals ..you're looking for the condition of the oil.

Do the same when consumption is higher.


After you've determined that there either is or is not any issue (fuel, etc.) ..then do your fuel system cleaning/Auto-Rx or whatever ..and whatever results ..is what you live with.

This oil should be able to take anything that you can throw at it in terms of "use" ..it won't withstand excessive fuel or other "vectors" that insult it beyond it's ability to cope. You're reaching that limit.
 
I like the "half life" term for my problem
cool.gif

But its more than "half life", I am adding 1qt. You would think it would edcrease the rate of consumption as there is fresh oil in the motor.

[ April 07, 2005, 03:16 PM: Message edited by: landtoy80 ]
 
I ordered a kit from Blackstone a week ago but don't have the kit yet.
How much oil do I need?
I use the small Toyota oil filter and it sits sideways on the block so oil runs out of it.
I could dump and reinstall it untill I get enough.
Or I could run a vacuum hose down the dipstick and try and suck out some oil with a vacuum pump.

Do I want the motor cold,warm or hot when getting oil from filter?
If I think there a leaking injector, would I just run for a short time to get any gas into the filter?
 
In every vehicle I ever owned, if I loosened the oil pan bolt all the way to the last thread before falling out, oil will seep out past the bolt & out of the pan... if you wait long enough - you'll retrieve enough to do numerous tests.
 
Mobil 1 0W40 is not a good oil for this application at all as your experince has pointed out! Mobil 1 0W40 is more like a 0W30 with a nice HTHS then a true 40Wt. onceit has been in use in the engine!

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W50, Delvac-1, Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W40 and Delo 15W40 are all going to probably work better then Rotella-T Synthetic. I have never seen Rotella hold up in an engine that had a propecinity for consuption at all. In a sound engine R-T Syn works fine! Remeber it is a GIII oil not a GIV or GV oil!

If you have not done so already you need to use some Auto-Rx and follow the directions! It is almost guranteed that you have deposit issues, ring issues and seal hardening that is at least contributeing to your consuption issue!!! You would have to have guides and ring worn to h e l l to consume that much oil!
 
I installed new OEM injectors last summer.
I only get a check engine light every once in a while and it only stays on for a short time then goes off.

I tried Mobil 1 0W-40 and it would drink it at high rpms.
It would suck a qt of oil in less than a tank of gas. If I wasn't hard on the throttle it would use oil at the rate I have with the RotellaR syn 5w40
Do you think Mobil 1 Truck and SUV or Delvac1 would be any better than the Mobil 1 0w40?
I can rev-up with Rotella T with no increase in consumption.
 
quote:
Originally posted by landtoy80:


How do you tell how an injector is bad without removing it?
Click to expand...
You can ohm it. All injectors have a certain resistance level...if they're out of range, they're junk and need to be replaced-you can find the values in a Toyota factory service manual for your truck. You could also isolate the fuel rail or rails from the rest of the fuel system and do a fuel psi bleed down test, but that'll just show you that you have a bad injector somewhere on that rail. The only way to really find out if you have a bad injector and which one specifically is to remove them all and have them flow tested.
 
LandToy80, I remember a prior post from Cary on the Delo. I beleive he said it would be good for 5k at least with no problem. It is supposed to be very good oil.

Thanks

Andrew
 
Considering diesel oils are designed to operate under conditions no gas burning engine can match, they should have NO problems lasting the factory recommended change intervals for a gas engine.
 
quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Mobil 1 0W40 is not a good oil for this application at all as your experince has pointed out! Mobil 1 0W40 is more like a 0W30 with a nice HTHS then a true 40Wt. onceit has been in use in the engine!
Click to expand...
The 0w-40 works great in this engine. I have posted two used oil analysis, one with 5000 and another with 8000 miles and both had very low wear numbers and no shearing.
 
Cary, 0W40 is obviously not a good choice for his application. If he is burning a quart or more per tank of gas and it does not do this as badly with other oils it is a no brainer. OW40 is known to make an oil burning situation even worse. It might be a fine oil in a vechile that is not diluteing the oil with fuel and does not already have a consuption issue. Remeber his post did not ask anything about wear metals it is about consuption!

Once he cleans out pre-exsisting deposits and fix's his fuel diloution issue 0W40 might work ok but until then 15W40 is about the only thing that might hold up!
 
quote:
Originally posted by landtoy80:


I might have a leaking injector. Can a FI cleaner (either one added to the gas tank or through the fuel rail) correct this problem or do I have to send them it for a testing and cleaning?
Click to expand...
If you're dumping that much gas into the oil, chances are real good the injector is physically bad and needs to be replaced. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a couple bad ones or a set on the verge of going bad. Anyways, to answer your question, using FI cleaner is probably not going to work in your situation, but it's worth a shot before pulling the injectors. Sometimes the cleaner can make things worse than before.
 
I was having a lean and rich air fuel mixture.
I Seafoamed the motor through the PCV hoses. Did this twice.
I ran a can of Toyota FI cleaner in the gas tank.

The check engine light hasn't come back on.

I found a local place that does off vehicle injector cleaning.

99, do you think I might be better off doing the MAF injector swap over having mine cleaned and tested?
MAF is a LandCruiser parts house that will exchange you injectors for ones that have been cleaned and tested.
 
I agree with 99. As for swap vs. cleaning... it's the same thing. Just depends upon how time-sensitive you are. I don't know the price of the swap, but witchhunter.com will clean and flow test them for $12 apiece.
 
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