Oil choice for Hyundai Veloster

[HemiHawk]

Originally Posted By: Kyonic
I have narrowed it down to Mobil 1 5w30 and Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Not sure which just want to keep the warranty going.


In that case the only choice is the Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, as it meets the requirements for hyundais warranty. I think the cert was ACEA A5 that Mobil 1 didnt meet (maybe the Extended performance did, but i dont think so).

Factory fill is shell helix 5w30 semi syn.

As a side note, I kind of mentioned it above but... if you are changing the oil yourself through typical means such as pulling the car on ramps, be sure to use a fluid extractor to get the most out possible. the drain plug is on the front of the pan, so the ramps tilt the pan back. I get about 3/4s of a quart out after draining from the pan.

 

[wemay]

HemiHawk is correct as the only Mobil 1 oil offering ACEA A5 at present is the High Mileage. Unlike earlier VT years where only SM/GF-4 were required.

In my earlier comments i was not aware that the 2016 now specs ACEA A5 only.

The same thing goes for our Santa Fe Sport Turbo. Ours (2013) only requires API and ILSAC. The 2016 requires ACEA A5. This new recommendation I find strange since our Turbo has not been back spec'd nor has Hyundai gone to an extended OCI.

Quote:
ACEA A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

 

[HemiHawk]

Quick shot of the drain pain if you haven't been under the car yet. Its real easy to get to everything, but again just a bad design having the drain on the front of the pan.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I NEVER change oil on ramps, though it looks inviting - mainly bc of the pan tilt.
My driveway has a slight grade in the "level" parking area so I park with the pan plug tilted back just a bit. I jack one side of car then change filter; unbolt oil pan drain plug plug then drain.
Pause. Lower jack/car: complete drain. Raise car, screw in pan drain plug sporting new crush washer. Reset maintenance minder and long term fuel eco.

then, all the paperwork whuch goes into the maint manual in the glove box...

btw I bought an aluminum 1 ton floor jack ( on sale) That makes things easy.

 

[HemiHawk]

I mean, if the drain bolt isn't on the front of the pan, why not use ramps? Using a jack too hopefully you're using a jackstand while under the car. I had a jack fail one time (while jacking the car up, no harm to anything).

 

[wemay]

OP, couldn't you just place the ramps in the back? If it drains from the front of the pan this will get most of the oil out, and it's only your arm and the spanner that need to reach it. Just a thought if it was even a concern as HemiHawk had mentioned this irregularity.

 

[Kyonic]

Any issues with Quaker State Full Synthetic?

 

[wemay]

Your question about Quaker State Ultimate Durability just illuminates the confusion regarding Hyundai's recommendations. Under your hood you probably have a sticker recommending QS, and you will surely have the same in the Owner's Manual. Yet, Quaker State Ultimate Durability does not meet the current required ACEA A5 spec. Hopefully this changes because it is a fine oil.

 

[wemay]

Deleted (wrong thread)

 

[SR5]

Do you even need to jack it up to drain the oil ?

With my car, the sump plug is also at the front of the sump (but vertical). I just lay on the ground in front of the car, push a pan under the engine, reach under to undo the sump plug, and let it drain with the car flat and horizontal.

Looks like you could do the same with this car.

 

[HemiHawk]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Do you even need to jack it up to drain the oil ?

With my car, the sump plug is also at the front of the sump (but vertical). I just lay on the ground in front of the car, push a pan under the engine, reach under to undo the sump plug, and let it drain with the car flat and horizontal.

Looks like you could do the same with this car.



not OP, but on the one I work on, I couldn't do it. The car is fairly low to the ground, and the front bumper/fascia sticks pretty far out and is low. As it is I have to use some wood before the ramp to lift the front lip high enough before going on the ramp.

Now my jeeps on the other hand, yea I dont need ramps for them

Also, the points about using QS are funny. I say this because I bet any quality synthetic would do OK in this engine, especially changed at the proper intervals of 3-5k. BUT, when the car was taken to the dealer, they used some bulk conventional oil, which SURELY doesn't meet the requirements for the warranty. I guess it wouldn't matter since they serviced it, but I always found that funny.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: HemiHawk



Also, the points about using QS are funny. I say this because I bet any quality synthetic would do OK in this engine, especially changed at the proper intervals of 3-5k. BUT, when the car was taken to the dealer, they used some bulk conventional oil, which SURELY doesn't meet the requirements for the warranty. I guess it wouldn't matter since they serviced it, but I always found that funny.


The specs required depends on the year of the vehicle. Pre-2015 Veloster Turbos only required SM/GF-4 so almost any Conventional oil would satisfy OEM requirements.

 

[SR5]

Thanks HemiHawk,
Roger That