I off-road on very dusty roads some in my ‘13 Chevy Silverado 4x4 (stock) and would like to know what the recommended oil change frequency is. Miles on engine = 70K.
Oil change frequency for off-roading
- Thread starter vregan
- Start date
For the most part if you use better than oem fine filtering air and oil filters you're alright. I drive my 268k mile sierra on dusty dirt roads everyday and I change at around 6-7k on average with only 1 quart for top up but use better than oem filters and do mostly highway getting in and out of town.
I use 15w-40 fwiw which is much better than the 90's era conventional 5w-30 it was meant to run on. Oil has always drained out normally and it runs perfectly with the original internals. How many miles do you drive per year. On average the sierra gets around 23k every year so oil doesn't spend much time in the sump and I don't idle much either.
I use 15w-40 fwiw which is much better than the 90's era conventional 5w-30 it was meant to run on. Oil has always drained out normally and it runs perfectly with the original internals. How many miles do you drive per year. On average the sierra gets around 23k every year so oil doesn't spend much time in the sump and I don't idle much either.
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
keep a good air filter on the vehicle and inspect intake tract for dust. if it’s clean there is no real need for an early change. on LS motors i run OTS synthetic oil (ep versions) to 6k.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I used to wheel Jeeps a lot. Sometimes in dusty environments. Specifically Mt St Helens powery volcanish ash. It was as fine as flour.
The best oil filter is a good air filter. The best air filtration is a stock or stock replacement paper/cellulose air filter.
I prefer AC Delco, Baldwin, Haynes, NAPA Gold, or Oreilly Microgard Select stock replacement filters because I think they're the best.
The reuseable foam oiled filters by K&N and others do not filter well enough. Synthetic media air filters I don't know, but I'm skeptical of them because synthetic media oil filters (Wix XP for example) aren't very good.
Paper/cellulose air filters (like the ones I recommended) do a better job of filtering finer particles. A paper filter will not reduce low or mid RPM horsepower or torque. At high RPM (near redline) a paper filter might cost you 2-3 HP compared to a K&N.
How often do you drive near redline? How often do you drive in dust? Clearly a paper/cellulose filter is preferable.
For oil filter, I recommend NAPA Gold.
Patman
Staff member
This is a perfect example of how a few UOAs can help you fine tune your proper OCI. It will take the guesswork out of how much of that dust is making its way into your oil.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Once a month or after a dozen dusty wheeling adventures... Wipe dust off top and sides of air filter box. Remove air filter and look at it.
If it's white it's still clean. If it's light brown/tan, light grey (or darker) it's dirty. Vaccuum it as clean as you can. Take care to only vaccuum the dirty side so you pull dirt out. Do not vaccuum the clean side at all (because that would just suck dirt deeper into pores.
Hold filter up to the sun (cleanest side toward you). If you see light through the filter it's still good and should be reused. If you can't see light through the filter it needs to be replaced.
I also suggest changing oil and oil filter every 5K at longest or 3K at soonest if you're not doing UOAs. If you are doing UOAs then I suggest letting the UOA guide you for OCI.
If it's white it's still clean. If it's light brown/tan, light grey (or darker) it's dirty. Vaccuum it as clean as you can. Take care to only vaccuum the dirty side so you pull dirt out. Do not vaccuum the clean side at all (because that would just suck dirt deeper into pores.
Hold filter up to the sun (cleanest side toward you). If you see light through the filter it's still good and should be reused. If you can't see light through the filter it needs to be replaced.
I also suggest changing oil and oil filter every 5K at longest or 3K at soonest if you're not doing UOAs. If you are doing UOAs then I suggest letting the UOA guide you for OCI.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Yes. Good point. My advice for OCI was for a guy who isn't doing UOAs. My other advice is for every wheeler regardless of UOA or OCI.
I updated my earlier advice to include your advice.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I modified my Jeeps as follows. OP should do same. Put a motorcycle plastic fuel filter in the end of each breather hose (transmission, differentials) to keep dust out of the trans & diff. See photos.
Note 1: Start by knowing the size of breather vent hose fitting because this determines the size of hose and filter you should get. You want a snug fit to make a good seal.
Note 2: I like NAPA Gold plastic fuel filters for motorcycles and riding lawnmowers. There's probably other good brands, but I don't know which other brands are good. If you're going to do this, it's worth doing right. So get a decent quality filter, not a questionable offbrand.
Note 3: When you go to autostore for parts... Ask for rubber fuel line. Do NOT ask for breather hose. Here's why. The junk autostores normally sell for breather hose is unstructured (flimsy) and will collapse when your diff or trans tries to inhale. This is especially true when you have a filter plugged into the end of the hose. So buy rubber fuel line of the size that fits snuggly onto breather hose fitting and fuel filter. A snug fit is needed to make a good seal. The hose should be too snug to push on dry, but just big enough to push on while twisting back-and-forth after spitting on it.
Note 4: Stock/OEM breather hose is the same unstructured (flimsy) hose that autoparts stores sell. It will collapse during use with a filter. Replace it with rubber fuel hose before installing filter.
Note 5: Make sure you install the filter the correct direction for air flow. See arrow on filter.
Note 6: If transmission doesn't have a hose on its breather vent, then add a hose to the vent. If the vent does not have a hose fitting, then add a hose fitting, then add hose.
If there's no OEM hose fitting and you have to add a hose fitting, you might first need to drill and tap the breather vent hole so you can screw a hose fitting into it.
My Cherokee XJ auto transmission had a vent hole, but no hose fitting and no hose. So we drilled and tapped the vent hole to add threads to the transmission breather vent. Then a hose fitting was screwed in. Then added a breather hose (we used rubber fuel line). Then routed the other end of hose to the highest point under vehicle. Then put filter in end of breather hose and secured hose to vehicle.
I did the same on my Wrangler Rubicon transmission, but it was much easier because the above work was already done at the Jeep factory as part of stock Rubicon. So the only thing I had to do was plug filter into the end of the transmission breather hose.
The Cherokees and Wrangler Rubicon all had diff breather hoses installed stock, but I improved them by replacing then with rubber fuel hose that was longer than the original breather hoses. This allowed me to route the diff breather hoses much higher than the originals. The rear diff breather hose was routed up to behind the driver side taillight (gas filter fit neatly in cavity behind tail light). The front diff breather hose was routed up to the top of the engine bay. Then filter was plugged into each breather hose.
Then change trans & diff fluids. After that those fluids should stay clean, and for most wheelers stay dry too, even if moderate water crossings are done.
For a Jeep (with mods I described) water crossings up to bottom of bumper are very safe. Up to top of bumper probably safe, but no promises. Dust not a concern.
For the OP's vehicle, I don't know what its safe water crossing/fording limit is, but it'd probably be improved by my mods advice. As for dust, all the advice/mods I posted in this thread would greatly help with dust.
Note 1: Start by knowing the size of breather vent hose fitting because this determines the size of hose and filter you should get. You want a snug fit to make a good seal.
Note 2: I like NAPA Gold plastic fuel filters for motorcycles and riding lawnmowers. There's probably other good brands, but I don't know which other brands are good. If you're going to do this, it's worth doing right. So get a decent quality filter, not a questionable offbrand.
Note 3: When you go to autostore for parts... Ask for rubber fuel line. Do NOT ask for breather hose. Here's why. The junk autostores normally sell for breather hose is unstructured (flimsy) and will collapse when your diff or trans tries to inhale. This is especially true when you have a filter plugged into the end of the hose. So buy rubber fuel line of the size that fits snuggly onto breather hose fitting and fuel filter. A snug fit is needed to make a good seal. The hose should be too snug to push on dry, but just big enough to push on while twisting back-and-forth after spitting on it.
Note 4: Stock/OEM breather hose is the same unstructured (flimsy) hose that autoparts stores sell. It will collapse during use with a filter. Replace it with rubber fuel hose before installing filter.
Note 5: Make sure you install the filter the correct direction for air flow. See arrow on filter.
Note 6: If transmission doesn't have a hose on its breather vent, then add a hose to the vent. If the vent does not have a hose fitting, then add a hose fitting, then add hose.
If there's no OEM hose fitting and you have to add a hose fitting, you might first need to drill and tap the breather vent hole so you can screw a hose fitting into it.
My Cherokee XJ auto transmission had a vent hole, but no hose fitting and no hose. So we drilled and tapped the vent hole to add threads to the transmission breather vent. Then a hose fitting was screwed in. Then added a breather hose (we used rubber fuel line). Then routed the other end of hose to the highest point under vehicle. Then put filter in end of breather hose and secured hose to vehicle.
I did the same on my Wrangler Rubicon transmission, but it was much easier because the above work was already done at the Jeep factory as part of stock Rubicon. So the only thing I had to do was plug filter into the end of the transmission breather hose.
The Cherokees and Wrangler Rubicon all had diff breather hoses installed stock, but I improved them by replacing then with rubber fuel hose that was longer than the original breather hoses. This allowed me to route the diff breather hoses much higher than the originals. The rear diff breather hose was routed up to behind the driver side taillight (gas filter fit neatly in cavity behind tail light). The front diff breather hose was routed up to the top of the engine bay. Then filter was plugged into each breather hose.
Then change trans & diff fluids. After that those fluids should stay clean, and for most wheelers stay dry too, even if moderate water crossings are done.
For a Jeep (with mods I described) water crossings up to bottom of bumper are very safe. Up to top of bumper probably safe, but no promises. Dust not a concern.
For the OP's vehicle, I don't know what its safe water crossing/fording limit is, but it'd probably be improved by my mods advice. As for dust, all the advice/mods I posted in this thread would greatly help with dust.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I can't remember for sure, but I think we also drilled and tapped the power steering pump breather hole so we could add a hose fitting, breather hose, and filter. We also added small oil coolers for transmission and power steering oils.
OP here - thanks for all the really helpful & useful info - keep it coming!
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I suggest going to a slightly thicker and heavier duty oil, especially if you're wheeling in hot weather, and especially with a high mileage vehicle. My favorite oils for that are:
Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Synthetic. In reality it's approx a grade thicker than it says. For example QS UP FS 5w20 is same viscosity as most other brands 5w30 synthetic. QS UP FS 5w30 is much thicker than most other brands 5w30 synthetic. QS UP FS is also highly fortified with excellent additives.
Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic. It's in reality approx about ½ grade thicker than it says. For example 5w20 QS HM FS is halfway between other brands 5w20 and 5w30 synthetics. QS HM FS is highly fortified with excellent additives and extra seal conditioner.
Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage is slightly thicker than most brands. It's not quite as thick as Quaker State oils mentioned, but the V HM EP is even more highly fortified with additives. V EP HM is very highly fortified with excellent additives and extra seal conditioner.
Mobil One Truck & SUV. I don't know the details of it's viscosity or additives, but I do know it has an excellent reputation for you type of use.
All oils mentioned above have excellent reputations, especially for heavy duty applications such as trucks and SUVs towing, hauling, and offroading. The 2 high mileage oils above (Quaker State HM FS and Valvoline HM EP ) also have extra seal conditioners to reduce or prevent leaks. Quaker State oils are very affordable at Walmart. Valvoline HM EP and Mobil 1 Truck & SUV cost more, but Walmart still has the best prices that I know of, unless onsale at an autostore.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
In post 10, I recommended adding clear plastic fuel filters to diff & trans breather hoses (after replacing breather hoses with black rubber fuel line).
As an afterthought... There are companies offering aftermarket breather hose filters for 4x4s. Don't buy them. They're a scam because they're overpriced junk filters. You can make your own for a better result and lower cost.
A decent quality clear plastic fuel filter (often call motorcycle or lawn mower inline fuel filter) is lower cost, larger, and higher quality.
One advantage of a clear plastic fuel filter is you can easily see at a glance if it has contaminents in it. So it's easy to know if the filter is still clean, or has become dirty. This makes it easy to know when to replace filter. The filter(s) should last many years of dusty wheeling, unless you drive into water that's too deep.
If you find water in the filter, then replace the filter and the oil in the thing it's filtering for (diff or trans).
The condition of the clear plastic filter can also provide clues about whether you should be checking the cleanliness of diff oil and/or trans oil more often.
As an afterthought... There are companies offering aftermarket breather hose filters for 4x4s. Don't buy them. They're a scam because they're overpriced junk filters. You can make your own for a better result and lower cost.
A decent quality clear plastic fuel filter (often call motorcycle or lawn mower inline fuel filter) is lower cost, larger, and higher quality.
One advantage of a clear plastic fuel filter is you can easily see at a glance if it has contaminents in it. So it's easy to know if the filter is still clean, or has become dirty. This makes it easy to know when to replace filter. The filter(s) should last many years of dusty wheeling, unless you drive into water that's too deep.
If you find water in the filter, then replace the filter and the oil in the thing it's filtering for (diff or trans).
The condition of the clear plastic filter can also provide clues about whether you should be checking the cleanliness of diff oil and/or trans oil more often.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I just remembered more details about my Jeeps, which you can use/copy.
We routed the transmission breather hose (we used fuel line) to the top-front of engine bay. Same with front diff breather hose.
Top-front because we wanted the end of each breather hose and its clear plastic filter as high as possible to keep out water if/when fording/crossing water.
Top of engine bay meaning as high up under hood as possible.
Front of engine bay meaning one breather hose filter by left-front-top corner of radiator shroud. The other breather hose filter by right-front-top corner of radiator shroud. On each side of the radiator, but a couple inches from radiator to protect hose and filter from heat.
That way if water and/or dust got sucked in by engine fan and blown back into engine compartment, the breather hose ends' filters would be sheltered in an area that dust and water would never directly blow/spray on.
The rear diff breather hose end filter was mounted in a body cavity behind the driver side tail light. So dust and water would never directly blow, spray, or splash on it, and it was 6 inches higher than top of bumper.
The general rule for a Jeep was to avoid water deeper than bottom of bumper, and for sure avoid water deeper than top of bumper. Not sure what a safe fording limit is for OP's truck. Always go slow if crossing water to avoid making waves.
Many Jeepers disable their engine fan before a deep water crossing. I never did that, but I never did a deep crossing. Deep crossing is too risky for me. I'd rather play it safer. I did ford water up to bottom of my bumper, which is quite conservative and safe in a Jeep. Likely any truck or SUV can ford water up to bottom of bumper safely. However, there's always the chance of a deeper hole under the water that you didn't know about.
We routed the transmission breather hose (we used fuel line) to the top-front of engine bay. Same with front diff breather hose.
Top-front because we wanted the end of each breather hose and its clear plastic filter as high as possible to keep out water if/when fording/crossing water.
Top of engine bay meaning as high up under hood as possible.
Front of engine bay meaning one breather hose filter by left-front-top corner of radiator shroud. The other breather hose filter by right-front-top corner of radiator shroud. On each side of the radiator, but a couple inches from radiator to protect hose and filter from heat.
That way if water and/or dust got sucked in by engine fan and blown back into engine compartment, the breather hose ends' filters would be sheltered in an area that dust and water would never directly blow/spray on.
The rear diff breather hose end filter was mounted in a body cavity behind the driver side tail light. So dust and water would never directly blow, spray, or splash on it, and it was 6 inches higher than top of bumper.
The general rule for a Jeep was to avoid water deeper than bottom of bumper, and for sure avoid water deeper than top of bumper. Not sure what a safe fording limit is for OP's truck. Always go slow if crossing water to avoid making waves.
Many Jeepers disable their engine fan before a deep water crossing. I never did that, but I never did a deep crossing. Deep crossing is too risky for me. I'd rather play it safer. I did ford water up to bottom of my bumper, which is quite conservative and safe in a Jeep. Likely any truck or SUV can ford water up to bottom of bumper safely. However, there's always the chance of a deeper hole under the water that you didn't know about.
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I just checked the intake just upstream from the air filter and it was very clean - I was surprised considering the truck has run 70,000 miles and the intake tract has never been opened except for air filter changes (as expected).
That should have the e-fans, correct? A good thing.
As othere have noted, GM OEM Air filter's are one of the best for filtration and flow and readily available. There may be better ones as mentioned, but OE is a great choice.
Check PCV hoses and grommets. Any loose fittings or cracks in this system will contaminate the oil.
Might want to flush cooling system and replace with fresh fluid if you haven't done that yet. Ideally, at least every 5 years.
As othere have noted, GM OEM Air filter's are one of the best for filtration and flow and readily available. There may be better ones as mentioned, but OE is a great choice.
Check PCV hoses and grommets. Any loose fittings or cracks in this system will contaminate the oil.
Might want to flush cooling system and replace with fresh fluid if you haven't done that yet. Ideally, at least every 5 years.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
P.S. - My advice to (if dirty enough to need it) vacuum the dirty side of air filter is what I do (because I don't have an air compressor).
If you have an air compressor, then blow air through from the clean side of filter (if shape of filter allows that).
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I like to change oil and filter before and after. I'll admit, I grew up working on a 36,000 acre ranch and it was dust as hell. Way worse than any off roading I've seen. We'd hit our filters with an air compressor and it made your jaw drop. Never had an engine issue. My reasoning is because A) for some weird reason I enjoy knowing the engine is clean prior, and B) I like to send a used oil analysis in. However, when I didn't let it get to me (broke college kid) I worked those farm fields that SHOVED dirt down the pipe and still sold my vehicles running perfect.
