Changed the oil Saturday in a 4.6 Expedition. It took about 10 seconds for the rod knock noise to go away. A very long 10 seconds. Maybe I'll just quit changing the filter. It makes a mess, and the noise is unbearable. Didn't Bob do some studies on filters that showed we don't really need filters after the first couple of oil changes?
Oil Change - Dry Start Up Noise
- Thread starter C4Dave
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Do you use the prefilling of the oil filter technique, or just go in dry? Also, what oil viscosity are you running with?
1. Brand of filter?
2. Viscosity of oil?
3. Miles?
4. Properly maintained (sludge?)
As mentioned above, prefilling filter should help, but 10 secs is way to long.
Oil pump lost it prime?
Filter was a Motorcraft. Oil was Motorcraft 5w20. Truck has 40,000 miles on it. The filter mounts sideways, so I could probably fill it about half way. But I was lazy Saturday. Besides, the lube shops don't pre-fill. I've even seen some shops rev the motor after starting to get the oil pressure up quicker.
Do you change your oil after running the engine, or do you change it cold?
I have a 97 F150 with a 4.6L. I have never experienced this noise after an oil change, but I always go to the store and pick up a filter before I change the oil. I imagine this leaves enough residual oil to lubriucate things while the new filter is filling up. Prefilling the filter on these engines is almost impossible.
The worst start up noise I have ever experienced was when using a Fram filter wihtout an ADBV. This noise was with every cold start.
If you are running a Motorcraft FL820s, I image you could go evry other oil change with a filter change if you are practicing conservative oil change intervals (3000 mile).
I have a 97 F150 with a 4.6L. I have never experienced this noise after an oil change, but I always go to the store and pick up a filter before I change the oil. I imagine this leaves enough residual oil to lubriucate things while the new filter is filling up. Prefilling the filter on these engines is almost impossible.
The worst start up noise I have ever experienced was when using a Fram filter wihtout an ADBV. This noise was with every cold start.
If you are running a Motorcraft FL820s, I image you could go evry other oil change with a filter change if you are practicing conservative oil change intervals (3000 mile).
My FL820s on a side setup on a 4.6 appears to have given up the ghost ADBV-wise at about 11,000 miles. It just started to tick a bit so I think the valve was just starting to fail. So even if you do an oil change at 5k you would probably be ok with the old filter for another 5k at least. Barring really nasty oil, which Motorcraft 5W20 does not appear to be. I kind of pre-fill, probably a third of the filter, as I don't want it running down my arm when I screw it in sideways. As long as you tip it and immediately start screwing it in you will be passably ok.
A guy who's been a Chrysler mechanic for 25+ years told me he unhooks the coil wire and cranks the engine for about 5 seconds after he does an oil change to make sure there's pressure and that the oil pump is picking up the oil from the filter. That method works fine for me.
Our '94 Tbird does the same thing. It was maintained correctly, and I only use quality oil and filters. What I found that works would be to "pre-crank" the motor for a few seconds prior to start by pulling the ecm fuse. This is very common with the 4.6 due to all the threads on it on other forums.
It seems like you have the correct filter - this is important because of Ford's drainback valving - some Ford filters have two valves.
I wouldn't pull the coil wire and crank away, because of raw fuel washing the oil off of the cyl. walls.
I wouldn't pull the coil wire and crank away, because of raw fuel washing the oil off of the cyl. walls.
Many of the fuel injected cars (check your 4.6 for flooded engine directions) will cut off the fuel when you crank the engine with the accelerator pedal to the floor. It thinks it is trying to clear the fuel from a flooded engine. This is what I have done on my Chevy trucks in the past to fill up the filter if I am too lazy to prefill.
The ADBV could get hard and not work, the filter could clog and bypass permenately sending dirty oil into the engine, the filter could rust through eventually if your in a salt belt state.
Seems like a lot to risk for a little less "inconvenience".
-T
Seems like a lot to risk for a little less "inconvenience".
-T
Probably want to verify this before you change the oil and right after the engine was run up to temperature. That way if it does turn over and fire, you've got a good coating of oil on all the parts already.
I'd try changing the oil and filter after it was brought up to full operating temperature. Then let it drain for no more than couple minutes after it's down to the dripping stage. Maybe this will leave some oil in the passages and whatever is knocking won't knock as much.
I personally wouldn't worry about it. It's probably a stuck valve/lifter due to little to no oil pressure with the new filter until it builds up enough to get things working again. You may have some build up that's responsible for the noise. May wish to try auto-rx...?
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