This is for my Generac Generator gp17500e. Was going to change the oil today but I was surprised that in the manual there is no reference to time in the manual only hours of runtime. I was always one of those change the oil annually kind of guys regardless but the manual does not mention it. Oil change interval is 100 hrs. It has 8 hours on it since I changed the oil. Guess I can stretch to 2 years between changes unless anyone has any thoughts to the contrary?
Oil Change by hours only according to manual
- Thread starter slingha
- Start date
- Status
Same as most tractors and stationary power sourses like air compressors etc.
I'd change it annually. I make sure everything gets an oil change at least once a year.
What does a yearly change cost? $10 in oil, $5 for a filter, and less than a half hour of your time. Seems like cheap protection for a $3000 generator.
For my John Deere, it recommends 150 hours of engine time (it has an oil filter) or yearly, whichever comes first.
What does a yearly change cost? $10 in oil, $5 for a filter, and less than a half hour of your time. Seems like cheap protection for a $3000 generator.
For my John Deere, it recommends 150 hours of engine time (it has an oil filter) or yearly, whichever comes first.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 5,599
I have a 16KW LP Generac. I change it yearly with synthetic and new filter irregardless of hours on the clock. The way i view it is it's sooo easy to do; the 2 cylinders use small number of ounces; and maybe you do not have many hours NOW but what if you need it to run for a week straight?? Mine was called upon for a 4 day run 2 years ago. If I hadn't changed it in a few years I'd not sleep well.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Oil doesn't deteriorate in the crankcase, at eight hours per year I'd change about every 4-5 years...
Especially if you use synthetic.
Oil doesn't deteriorate in the crankcase, at eight hours per year I'd change about every 4-5 years...
Especially if you use synthetic.
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Oil doesn't deteriorate in the crankcase, at eight hours per year I'd change about every 4-5 years...
You're right, the oil itself doesn't deteriorate. But that's not the problem.
Not useful. Define what you think is the "problem."
As has been said above, oil doesn't deteriorate with moderate age... and I am talking the entire formulation, not just the base oil. We have seen used oil analysis here on oil that has sat in crankcases for 30 years that could have been used, not to mention virgin oil of similar or greater age that was still "usable." The only reason NOT to use those oils is that they were poor formulations compared to today's oils, even if they might still be suitable by application. I have verified some of my own equipment via used oil analysis out past three years and much of it has been posted here.
Advocating dumping the oil "just because" or as "cheap insurance" is an intellectually lazy argument we hear all to much on BITOG and it's usually without specific examples of failure or problems. If you are basing the advice on known, specific issues with a particular piece of equipment, or it's operating environment, fine. Let's hear the info. An anonymous opinions without backup info is valueless
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Oil doesn't deteriorate in the crankcase, at eight hours per year I'd change about every 4-5 years...
You're right, the oil itself doesn't deteriorate. But that's not the problem.
Not useful. Define what you think is the "problem."
As has been said above, oil doesn't deteriorate with moderate age... and I am talking the entire formulation, not just the base oil. We have seen used oil analysis here on oil that has sat in crankcases for 30 years that could have been used, not to mention virgin oil of similar or greater age that was still "usable." The only reason NOT to use those oils is that they were poor formulations compared to today's oils, even if they might still be suitable by application. I have verified some of my own equipment via used oil analysis out past three years and much of it has been posted here.
Advocating dumping the oil "just because" or as "cheap insurance" is an intellectually lazy argument we hear all to much on BITOG and it's usually without specific examples of failure or problems. If you are basing the advice on known, specific issues with a particular piece of equipment, or it's operating environment, fine. Let's hear the info. An anonymous opinions without backup info is valueless
Jim Allen makes a good point. My response would be that if the generator is sitting in a place with a lot of hot/cold cycles, and isn't being run often, you're going to get acids forming in the crankcase along with moisture buildup.
The warranty argument is not even valid because I'm literally following the manual. And ps: if they find 10w30 in my crankcase when the manual calls for sae 30 I'm sure it's going to be the more likely warranty.Either way it's out of warranty and has 350 hours on it from running 2 weeks during sandy only getting shut down for oil/filter/plug changes. I've followed the maintenance requirements and then some.
I went through 8 spark plugs 2 gallons of oil, 2 air filters, 4 oil filters, and $1,438 in fuel during Sandy, it adds up. I'm not stingy with it. But What I have become is somewhat of a hoarder when it comes to this thing. I have back-ups to back-ups. We had 16 people here sleeping anywhere and everywhere and I value this piece of machinery.
It's more of a not being wasteful thing for me.
I'm looking for sound science behind the argument. Jim Allen so far is the only one with a factual argument.
I wish I knew more about oil and base stock and ad packs etc but unfortunately I don't. I did pull some oil and put it in a Petri dish and put it next to a fresh sample. There literally was no difference.
Factually speaking is there an argument for the oil change?
I went through 8 spark plugs 2 gallons of oil, 2 air filters, 4 oil filters, and $1,438 in fuel during Sandy, it adds up. I'm not stingy with it. But What I have become is somewhat of a hoarder when it comes to this thing. I have back-ups to back-ups. We had 16 people here sleeping anywhere and everywhere and I value this piece of machinery.
It's more of a not being wasteful thing for me.
I'm looking for sound science behind the argument. Jim Allen so far is the only one with a factual argument.
I wish I knew more about oil and base stock and ad packs etc but unfortunately I don't. I did pull some oil and put it in a Petri dish and put it next to a fresh sample. There literally was no difference.
Factually speaking is there an argument for the oil change?
Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Oil doesn't deteriorate in the crankcase, at eight hours per year I'd change about every 4-5 years...
Especially if you use synthetic.
Pffft.
OP.
Change the oil based on hours,period. Unless you find that the oil is very fuel diluted which can be easily discovered based on the oils smell.
I make my living with generators and gas powered air compressors. I change the plugs when they aren't running properly,not sooner.
I don't know why you'd have gone through so many plugs in such a short time. Mine lasts easily multiple hundreds of hours.
I use tc-w3 in the fuel and mos2 every second oil change. The mos2 makes the engine much easier to pull start and helps lower operating temps which is beneficial to an air cooled motor.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Oil doesn't deteriorate in the crankcase, at eight hours per year I'd change about every 4-5 years...
Especially if you use synthetic.
Pffft.
OP.
Change the oil based on hours,period. Unless you find that the oil is very fuel diluted which can be easily discovered based on the oils smell.
I make my living with generators and gas powered air compressors. I change the plugs when they aren't running properly,not sooner.
I don't know why you'd have gone through so many plugs in such a short time. Mine lasts easily multiple hundreds of hours.
I use tc-w3 in the fuel and mos2 every second oil change. The mos2 makes the engine much easier to pull start and helps lower operating temps which is beneficial to an air cooled motor.
Hi,
slingha - I agree with most of Jim's comments - wise and honest as usual
It is common to base OCIs on the amount of fuel used or on operating hours. These two parameters are in many ways the best - fuel used being a measure of the amount of "work" the engine has been subjected too
Oil in a closed environment won't deteriorate to a large degree over time - some internal rusting of exposed metals may occur but IME this is very very rare too
Most heavy machinery OCIs are based on hours - that is the case in the mining Industries that surround us here in OZ. This is what I've always used with Scrapers, Dozers and the likes. I used the "blotter" test to ascertain if significant fuel dilution was occuring
slingha - I agree with most of Jim's comments - wise and honest as usual
It is common to base OCIs on the amount of fuel used or on operating hours. These two parameters are in many ways the best - fuel used being a measure of the amount of "work" the engine has been subjected too
Oil in a closed environment won't deteriorate to a large degree over time - some internal rusting of exposed metals may occur but IME this is very very rare too
Most heavy machinery OCIs are based on hours - that is the case in the mining Industries that surround us here in OZ. This is what I've always used with Scrapers, Dozers and the likes. I used the "blotter" test to ascertain if significant fuel dilution was occuring
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: slingha
Clevy,
The Generac Manual calls for 100hr plug changes. Not sure why.
Not only that, no matter what which plug you buy, the manual is specific that you have to re-gap them before installation.
The regapping is a wise thing to do because the plugs can get banged around and get off the proper gap. A hundred hour interval... who knows. If it were me, I would extend it by 25 hours at a time until I saw signs of issues or I reached double the recommendation.
Clevy,
The Generac Manual calls for 100hr plug changes. Not sure why.
Not only that, no matter what which plug you buy, the manual is specific that you have to re-gap them before installation.
The regapping is a wise thing to do because the plugs can get banged around and get off the proper gap. A hundred hour interval... who knows. If it were me, I would extend it by 25 hours at a time until I saw signs of issues or I reached double the recommendation.
- Status