Oil change... before or after winter storage?
- Thread starter webfors
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Before Winter only makes sense.
Why have dirty oil sit in the crankcase all Winter to put fresh in in the Spring?
Put fresh oil in BEFORE Winter storage so all the acids are not bathing your engine parts, and don't change it in the Spring.
The fresh Winter oil you stored your car with is still fresh in the Spring, and now you don't waste it because you get to drive it now!
Why have dirty oil sit in the crankcase all Winter to put fresh in in the Spring?
Put fresh oil in BEFORE Winter storage so all the acids are not bathing your engine parts, and don't change it in the Spring.
The fresh Winter oil you stored your car with is still fresh in the Spring, and now you don't waste it because you get to drive it now!
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
+1
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
+1
If the oil has not been run to the end of a normal OCI it is not a huge deal either way. However objects at rest tend to stay at rest for a whole lot longer than people imagine, witness all the bikes that were parked "for the season" never to run again. Best to change it before!
I prefer to change before as stuff might settle out of the oil and setting for an extended time may sludge up areas and not break loose as easy after setting all winter.
TBH I'd drain it out as a whole. Also pull your spark plugs and use some sort of oil in there to mitigate corrosion
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
TBH I'd drain it out as a whole.
What do you mean by that?
TBH I'd drain it out as a whole.
What do you mean by that?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
+1
Add me to the list.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
+1
Add me to the list.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
+1
Add me to the list.
+1
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
BEFORE.
Just like Falken said above ^^^.
+1
Add me to the list.
+1
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
TBH I'd drain it out as a whole.
What do you mean by that?
I think he means drain it and leave it empty for storage, then fill it up in the spring.
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
TBH I'd drain it out as a whole.
What do you mean by that?
I think he means drain it and leave it empty for storage, then fill it up in the spring.
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Always before storage. Its an industry accept practice with any engine, be it marine, aircraft, motorcycle, ATV, lawnmower etc
I know some may say otherwise but the engine makers know best, its way oversimplifying that oil has buffers to absorb acids. Part true there are buffers but not by any means the reason not to do so.
One very basic example, fresh oil will have fresh rust and corrosion inhibitors in it to help protect the engine from developing rust on the interior surfaces. But forget what I say and listen to the engine maker.
I know some may say otherwise but the engine makers know best, its way oversimplifying that oil has buffers to absorb acids. Part true there are buffers but not by any means the reason not to do so.
One very basic example, fresh oil will have fresh rust and corrosion inhibitors in it to help protect the engine from developing rust on the interior surfaces. But forget what I say and listen to the engine maker.
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The oil has TBN to take care of the acids.
Unless the oil was run long and hard before winter storage, I'd do whatever is convenient and not be concerned.
This has been my thinking.
What about the idea that fresh oil needs to be brought up to temp for a period of time to "activate" the add pack. I've heard this a few times on BITOG over the years.
The oil has TBN to take care of the acids.
Unless the oil was run long and hard before winter storage, I'd do whatever is convenient and not be concerned.
This has been my thinking.
What about the idea that fresh oil needs to be brought up to temp for a period of time to "activate" the add pack. I've heard this a few times on BITOG over the years.
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
One very basic example, fresh oil will have fresh rust and corrosion inhibitors in it to help protect the engine from developing rust on the interior surfaces. But forget what I say and listen to the engine maker.
What if one is just making annual oil changes? Does it still matter then? At some point these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" that you're referring to will deplete. If you change your oil in late Fall, they might deplete next spring/summer, at which point your engine will still be somewhat unprotected until late Fall when you change it again. So what's the difference if you change it late Fall or early Spring? In either case there will be some period of less than optimal protection if you do believe that these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" can't make it through the whole annual OCI. And if they can make it, then again, it makes absolutely no difference when during the year you change it.
I have mine changed late Fall, just before storage, but I really don't have a good reason for doing it that way. More of a feel good kind of a thing.
One very basic example, fresh oil will have fresh rust and corrosion inhibitors in it to help protect the engine from developing rust on the interior surfaces. But forget what I say and listen to the engine maker.
What if one is just making annual oil changes? Does it still matter then? At some point these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" that you're referring to will deplete. If you change your oil in late Fall, they might deplete next spring/summer, at which point your engine will still be somewhat unprotected until late Fall when you change it again. So what's the difference if you change it late Fall or early Spring? In either case there will be some period of less than optimal protection if you do believe that these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" can't make it through the whole annual OCI. And if they can make it, then again, it makes absolutely no difference when during the year you change it.
I have mine changed late Fall, just before storage, but I really don't have a good reason for doing it that way. More of a feel good kind of a thing.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
One very basic example, fresh oil will have fresh rust and corrosion inhibitors in it to help protect the engine from developing rust on the interior surfaces. But forget what I say and listen to the engine maker.
What if one is just making annual oil changes? Does it still matter then? At some point these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" that you're referring to will deplete. If you change your oil in late Fall, they might deplete next spring/summer, at which point your engine will still be somewhat unprotected until late Fall when you change it again. So what's the difference if you change it late Fall or early Spring? In either case there will be some period of less than optimal protection if you do believe that these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" can't make it through the whole annual OCI. And if they can make it, then again, it makes absolutely no difference when during the year you change it.
I have mine changed late Fall, just before storage, but I really don't have a good reason for doing it that way. More of a feel good kind of a thing.
I suspect if we completed UOA's on the average bike oil after a season that the TBN/TAN would be in very good shape. This does not include those that ride more than 6k miles per year.
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
One very basic example, fresh oil will have fresh rust and corrosion inhibitors in it to help protect the engine from developing rust on the interior surfaces. But forget what I say and listen to the engine maker.
What if one is just making annual oil changes? Does it still matter then? At some point these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" that you're referring to will deplete. If you change your oil in late Fall, they might deplete next spring/summer, at which point your engine will still be somewhat unprotected until late Fall when you change it again. So what's the difference if you change it late Fall or early Spring? In either case there will be some period of less than optimal protection if you do believe that these "rust and corrosion inhibitors" can't make it through the whole annual OCI. And if they can make it, then again, it makes absolutely no difference when during the year you change it.
I have mine changed late Fall, just before storage, but I really don't have a good reason for doing it that way. More of a feel good kind of a thing.
I suspect if we completed UOA's on the average bike oil after a season that the TBN/TAN would be in very good shape. This does not include those that ride more than 6k miles per year.
I usually do 2-3 oil changes each year...my late season one is done mid-late October or early November before temps drop to harsh levels (I have to do maintenence outdoors...no garage or shed); I usually have 350-500 miles on that oil change before hibernation...partially used with plenty of additives left in the mix; my early season oil change is done after my initial riding...usually add another 250-500 miles on the oil from hibernation; kinda like doing an engine flush each year;
the oil that I use for late autumn/winter/early spring is a 'frankenbrew' of leftover oils & motorcycle oil bought on sale or a good quality pcmo (to have enough oil for 2 bikes) since the total mileage is under 1500 miles;
this riding season I am continuing to use my 'frankenbrew' with 2 new liters of BelRay conventional motorcycle oil for 2000 mile OCI's in both bikes...
the oil that I use for late autumn/winter/early spring is a 'frankenbrew' of leftover oils & motorcycle oil bought on sale or a good quality pcmo (to have enough oil for 2 bikes) since the total mileage is under 1500 miles;
this riding season I am continuing to use my 'frankenbrew' with 2 new liters of BelRay conventional motorcycle oil for 2000 mile OCI's in both bikes...
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