Oil/All fluids request: 2005 Toyota Sequoia

[irish44j]

Gents, just picked up a 2005 Sequoia for my wife (and for my own occasional use towing the racecar).

Vehicle: 2005 Sequoia V8 4.7 4WD

Mileage: 90k, with some service records and oil was recently changed. I don't have specific records of what service was done, but it appears to have had most scheduled maintenance at Toyota dealer according to Carfax and Toyota Owner's site. That said, I plan to change everything, so looking for suggestions.

Driving style: Wife puts about 8k per year on her vehicle, almost all local/short trips with the occasional road trip once or twice a year. I will be using it probably 3-4 times per year to tow our Lemons/Chump car or my rallycross car on a trailer (~4500lbs), with brake controller, etc. IIRC the Sequoia has a stock tranny cooler.

So, I'm looking for suggestions on all fluids from the expert masses here, with the Toyota 4.7 being a well-known quantity as far as engines go. For engine oil I'll keep with a 3k mile OCI so would prefer a reasonably-priced dino or synthetic blend oil. If I can buy it at Wal-Mart (e.g. Rotella) that's a plus.

Also plan to do brakes (will use ATE Blue/ATE Gold), both diffs, transfer case, coolant (will use Toyota Red), and transmission (multiple drain-and-fill).

Front diff and TC use 75W-90 and rear diff uses 75W-140. I don't mind using synthetic for the drivetrain if suggested, though would prefer not to drop Amsoil or Motul money on it if there is something cheaper that is just as good.

So, fire away with any suggestions, thanks.

 

[umungus1122]

For the diffs definitely go synthetic. They're changed infrequently, so a few clams over dino lube is worth the peace of mind.

 

[JustinC25]

For oil, I'd run either PYB 5w30, or Mobil Super 5w30. Both are available at Wal-Mart. For a filter you can run the factory
90915-YZZD3, or if you don't mind the smaller size you can run the Purolator L10241. (also available at WM) For the Trans you want to run Toyota T-IV, or Mobil ATF 3309. Your plan for the coolant and the brake fluid seems right on. Just keep in mind that DOT 4 has a higher initial boiling point, but absorbs water faster than DOT 3.
So if you change it once a year you should be ok.
For the front diff and the transfer case any regular 75w90 should be fine, like Valvoline, Mobil or Quaker State. Just change it out every 30k.
For the rear diff, I'd double check the listing with the dealer.
When I use to work at the dealer, these trucks got 80w90 in the rear diff, with the limited slip additive.
At the dealer we used Quaker State gear oil.
One other thing of note, has the timing belt been done yet ?
It is due at 90k, and generally the water pump will be leaking also at this mileage.
Good luck and enjoy your new truck. These are great vehicles.

 

[irish44j]

Originally Posted By: JustinC25
For oil, I'd run either PYB 5w30, or Mobil Super 5w30. Both are available at Wal-Mart. For a filter you can run the factory
90915-YZZD3, or if you don't mind the smaller size you can run the Purolator L10241. (also available at WM) For the Trans you want to run Toyota T-IV, or Mobil ATF 3309. Your plan for the coolant and the brake fluid seems right on. Just keep in mind that DOT 4 has a higher initial boiling point, but absorbs water faster than DOT 3.
So if you change it once a year you should be ok.
For the front diff and the transfer case any regular 75w90 should be fine, like Valvoline, Mobil or Quaker State. Just change it out every 30k.
For the rear diff, I'd double check the listing with the dealer.
When I use to work at the dealer, these trucks got 80w90 in the rear diff, with the limited slip additive.
At the dealer we used Quaker State gear oil.
One other thing of note, has the timing belt been done yet ?
It is due at 90k, and generally the water pump will be leaking also at this mileage.
Good luck and enjoy your new truck. These are great vehicles.


Timing belt kit with new pulleys, tensioners, water pump, etc are sitting in a box on my workbench waiting for it to warm up about 30 degrees so I can get it done. The day after that I get to do the same for my 2009 WRX, which has 95k miles. That's gonna be a long weekend....

I have the FSM, which is where the 75W-140 comes from. It kind of surprised me as well. But I guess the diff is different from the ones on the Tundra, so perhaps that's why they use a different weight fluid.

Yeah, I have to really take care of it. We sold the wife's 2008 30k mile 4Runner Sport for it (she wanted 3rd row seat, I needed tow capability, and we didn't want to spend any extra money). So older and higher miles it is, but truck is in great shape.

 

[vssjim]

Make sure you lube the drive shafts and don't change coolant until you see if t belt as listed above was done. It is suppose to be done at 90,000 so it should have been done the day before you bought it. The other thing to do is make sure all eight pistons in the front calipers push back before you change brake fluid as I have seen alot of four piston toyota calipers have one or mosr stuck pistons. These vehicles don't seem to picky about fluids. We use either Chevron or Castrol fluids and we see no problems out of them and just change them every 30,000. . Beck-Arnley sells toyota red and toyota pink coolant rather than toyota dealer fun.

 

[irish44j]

Originally Posted By: vssjim
Make sure you lube the drive shafts and don't change coolant until you see if t belt as listed above was done. It is suppose to be done at 90,000 so it should have been done the day before you bought it. The other thing to do is make sure all eight pistons in the front calipers push back before you change brake fluid as I have seen alot of four piston toyota calipers have one or mosr stuck pistons. These vehicles don't seem to picky about fluids. We use either Chevron or Castrol fluids and we see no problems out of them and just change them every 30,000. . Beck-Arnley sells toyota red and toyota pink coolant rather than toyota dealer fun.


My plan is to eventually replace the front rotors and calipers with the 13.3" ones off the 4Runner Sport Edition (Sequoia are 12.6"), but in the meantime I'll do a quick rebuild on these sometime in the summer (and put on Hawk LTX pads). I think you posted at the same time as my last one regarding timing belt. Thanks for the tip on Beck-Arnley.

 

[simple_gifts]

3K on a 6.5 sump? Major overkill on an engine that is easy on oil. 6K even with short trips.

Several UOAs here show 10K+ OCI with M1 EP.

 

[irish44j]

good to know. Mostly that's what I did with the 4Runner. With wife doing so few miles per year but all short trips, it's still only once every 6 months

 

[Doog]

I would use Mobil1LS 75w90 in the front diff and tc if that is what it calls for but Amsoil or RL 75w140 in the rear diff for sure. PP 5w30 every 5000 with a Toyota filter will serve you well. Any DOT3 brake fluid every pad re-line will do well but the 2 part front calipers should be serviced every other year and the pins replaced and new ones coated with anti-seize. Toyta LL pre-mixed coolant drain fill every 50k is fine and do the trans cooler line flush with the Toyota WS atf. Grease the drive shaft with Mobil1 or Valvoline grease.

Easy peasey Japaneseee

 

[michaelluscher]

Check the OM/Dipstick for the ATF spec
If it's T-IV Amazon
If not, Fork over for WS.
And swing by your dealer for some drain plug crush washer's.
PSF, I recommend Maxlife ATF. Works well in Toyo PSF systems
Check the calipers, Do the fluid.
Coolant is either Toyota LL Red or Toyota SLL Pinkish. THEY ARE DIFFERENT. Check your hood sticker.
Diff's, Amsoil or Redline isn't too hard to obtain. But Valvo's Synpower or Mobil's LS is still a top notch gear oil.
Other then that, Look's like you've got all your ducks in a row.
Enjoy the new motor.

 

[JHZR2]

Easiest: just go m1 in all spots.

More complex: run amsoil svg in the doffs, Toyota ATF, and m1 in the engine.

 

[drolds]

If you are going to spend the extra $$ on ATE brake fluid(excellent idea for towing), then why not spend a bit extra on the lubes? If it were my truck, I would definitely go with AMSOIL's ATL trans fluid (This is Toyota's first WS-low viscosity spec'd transmission). Two changes should get out most of the old stuff. Synthetics for both diffs is a must for towing. Concerning the oil filter, the factory Toyota filter is not all that great. The Wix- Gold or Purolator- Pure One are substantially superior at about the same price. Obviously a synthetic 5W-30 would be better than petroleum for towing duty.

Dr Olds
1994 Intrepid ES 3.5 AMSOIL ATM 10W-30
1975 Olds Cutlass Supreme Rotella 15W-40
1969 Olds Toronado Rotella 15W-40

 

[irish44j]

Originally Posted By: drolds
If you are going to spend the extra $$ on ATE brake fluid(excellent idea for towing), then why not spend a bit extra on the lubes? If it were my truck, I would definitely go with AMSOIL's ATL trans fluid (This is Toyota's first WS-low viscosity spec'd transmission). Two changes should get out most of the old stuff. Synthetics for both diffs is a must for towing. Concerning the oil filter, the factory Toyota filter is not all that great. The Wix- Gold or Purolator- Pure One are substantially superior at about the same price. Obviously a synthetic 5W-30 would be better than petroleum for towing duty.

Dr Olds
1994 Intrepid ES 3.5 AMSOIL ATM 10W-30
1975 Olds Cutlass Supreme Rotella 15W-40
1969 Olds Toronado Rotella 15W-40


Mostly because I have a ton of ATE Blue sitting here (we use it for the racecars) that I want to use while it's still "fresh"

 

[rw19]

One problem with owning a truck is the maintenance $$ if your sequia is anything like my navigator its crazy.

I have a 25 quart cooling system
16 quart transmission
2 quart front diff
2 quart rear diff
2 or 3 quart transfer case

imagine doing a tranny flush you need almost 30 quarts.
7 quart oil capacity.