Oil Additives for GDI engines

Thanks for the info Triple.

I wonder if the problem relays on ethanol, or it's related to a lower quality gas being used whit it. But correlating to what buster posted, maybe using a fuel that keeps the valves cooler, could aggravate the issue.

Around here some GDI/TGDI are flex fuel, so they can run E100 only. It would be interesting to see a comparison.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Leo
Our area 10% Ethanol is more of an issue with TGDI / GDI motors. A couple articles /write-ups feel ethanol slightly increase carbon in these engines.

Here in Michigan, it's no longer mandatory to have an ethanol sticker on gas pumps using ethanol. So I've been sticking with Shell gas, only because I've never seen a Shell 87-89-93 octane pump around, that stickers Ethanol at/near the gas pump handles.

*Would Shell gas use the same 10% ratio of Ethanol as well as most other top tier gas brands ?
 
Easy to test...mix a known amount of water with some fuel and see how much water goes to the bottom. Ethanol will go down with the water, so you end up with more water than you put in. And ethanol free fuel on top.
 
Originally Posted by js1956
Originally Posted by buster
Not that I'm aware of but here are the suggested things you can do to help mitigate intake valve deposits (opinions may vary):

Use an oil that is highly resistant to oxidation.
Avoid short trips as much as possible.
Take long highway trips periodically and get the engine hot. It's been found that high heat helps burn off and prevent IVD's.

Low Noack and lower SAPS are commonly suggested, however, that may not be the case.

I'm using Mobil 1 EP right now - PAO/AN, Noack 10%, SA .8.
I have some AP which is PAO/AN, Noack 8.9%, SA .8.

High Performance Lubricants (site sponsor) makes really good oils and they claim: "Formulated with specifically chosen esters which helps to minimize intake valve deposits, maintain a clean engine and maintain elastomer compatibility."

In time I will be using them.

https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/passenger-car-motor-oil


I would like to try this one in my Golf, but can't find PDS or VOA anywhere.

[Linked Image]



I wish those guys at HPL offered free shipping on purchases of $100 or more like Amsoil does, and I'd be a customer. I couldn't stomach when they added another almost $40 in shipping cost to my $150 order so I bailed out. Not because of money but principle.
 
Originally Posted by js1956
Originally Posted by js1956
Originally Posted by buster
Not that I'm aware of but here are the suggested things you can do to help mitigate intake valve deposits (opinions may vary):

Use an oil that is highly resistant to oxidation.
Avoid short trips as much as possible.
Take long highway trips periodically and get the engine hot. It's been found that high heat helps burn off and prevent IVD's.

Low Noack and lower SAPS are commonly suggested, however, that may not be the case.

I'm using Mobil 1 EP right now - PAO/AN, Noack 10%, SA .8.
I have some AP which is PAO/AN, Noack 8.9%, SA .8.

High Performance Lubricants (site sponsor) makes really good oils and they claim: "Formulated with specifically chosen esters which helps to minimize intake valve deposits, maintain a clean engine and maintain elastomer compatibility."

In time I will be using them.

https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/passenger-car-motor-oil


I would like to try this one in my Golf, but can't find PDS or VOA anywhere.

[Linked Image]



I wish those guys at HPL offered free shipping on purchases of $100 or more like Amsoil does, and I'd be a customer. I couldn't stomach when they added another almost $40 in shipping cost to my $150 order so I bailed out. Not because of money but principle.

*6 qrts. is $64 before shipping ! No thanks , I'll use Valvoline Advanced 5W30 D1/ Gen 2 for $23 per 5 qrt. jug ... Low NOACK , Low VII's and a great add pack and an OCI up to 5K miles in a GDI engine - what's not to like ?
 
Originally Posted by Jetronic
Easy to test...mix a known amount of water with some fuel and see how much water goes to the bottom. Ethanol will go down with the water, so you end up with more water than you put in. And ethanol free fuel on top.

That's what I do for my yard equipment. Add blue food coloring to see the separation even more. Drain the water out.
 
Everyone shows spraying these GDI cleaners through the air intake, but if the problem comes from PCV vapors wouldn't it be better to spray the cleaer through the PCV?
 
Jetronic said:
Easy to test...mix a known amount of water with some fuel and see how much water goes to the bottom. Ethanol will go down with the water, so you end up with more water than you put in. And ethanol free fuel on top.
Click to expand...
That’s what I do for my yard equipment.
 
A lot of guys who drive Genesis coupes like mine use oil catch cans and they say it really helps.
 
until you reach higher miles its anyones guess, BUT too late if its there!! lots of marketing BS but with few non DI engines available you have few choices!! my 2001 audi TT + 2011 frontier is port injected + manual trannys ON purpose!!!
 
Propflux01 said:
What does Hyundai do different that would mirror the Mazda?
Click to expand...
Hyundai and mazda allow the intake valves to stay open a little longer during the combustion process.
I found a Korean hyundai promo video once showing two sprays of the injector before combustion, a small effort to clean the otherwise untouchable valves.
 
nicholas said:
Hyundai and mazda allow the intake valves to stay open a little longer during the combustion process.
I found a Korean hyundai promo video once showing two sprays of the injector before combustion, a small effort to clean the otherwise untouchable valves.
Click to expand...


I think that the timing is in the injector spray and not the valve timing. I know the Mazda fuel injectors will spray multiple times each cycle depending on what the computer decides.

The result is the same, the intake valve backside gets a bit of fuel.
 
PimTac said:
I think that the timing is in the injector spray and not the valve timing. I know the Mazda fuel injectors will spray multiple times each cycle depending on what the computer decides.

The result is the same, the intake valve backside gets a bit of fuel.
Click to expand...
Do a search for Atkinson cycle....this is what Hyundai implements.
Its the valve duration and extra sprays.
 
Additive for GDI's....hmmmmm. Old oil out and add new oil. Good time for a filter too. Keep track of wear and dilution with and occasional UOA.
 
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