Official standards for tire repair?

[The_Eric]

Where would a person go to find what the industry considers to be "correct" for a tire repair?

The boss and I had a disagreement today. Short story is that we're new to the tire business (added to our auto repair). I wanted to follow the directions listed on the chemicals/products, he wanted to follow the advice of the sales rep that sold us the equipment. I wouldn't have been so skeptical, but the info was in contradiction to the labeling on the products. So I'd like to find something "official" to go by.

 

[Quattro Pete]

First hit in Google, from Rubber Manufacturers Association:

http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_repair/prp_wallchart1111.pdf


http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_repair/

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
First hit in Google, from Rubber Manufacturers Association:

http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_repair/prp_wallchart1111.pdf


http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_repair/



Awesome, thank you Quattro Pete! I must have been using the wrong wording for my searches, as all I found were links to various forums and companies like tire rack.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
he wanted to follow the advice of the sales rep that sold us the equipment.

Of the sales reps I've known, I wouldn't trust a [censored] thing any of them say. Their job is to sell product, not train in its use.

If you've got directions from the manufacturer, follow them first.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
he wanted to follow the advice of the sales rep that sold us the equipment.

Of the sales reps I've known, I wouldn't trust a thing any of them say. Their job is to sell product, not train in its use.

If you've got directions from the manufacturer, follow them first.


+1

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
he wanted to follow the advice of the sales rep that sold us the equipment.

Of the sales reps I've known, I wouldn't trust a thing any of them say. Their job is to sell product, not train in its use.

If you've got directions from the manufacturer, follow them first.


+1


I agree too.


So the longer version is that the rep told my boss to grind (buff) the tire first, then apply cleaning chemical, then apply glue, let it sit for 30 seconds, then apply patch and roll down. Once done with that, apply more glue over the edges of the patch.

Instructions (and RMA website) say to apply cleaning chemical first, then buff. Next to apply glue, apply stippling action to the surface, let sit until completely dry (3-5 minutes), then apply patch and roll it down. RMA website also said to use something to plug the hole to avoid rust/corrosion damage to the steel cords in the tire.

I know darn well and good how to read the instructions and I know that often times, reps and guys in shops (rep worked as a wrench for quite a while) can be wrong. My first instinct is to go with the instructions. They are a legal document after all.

So, that night we both went home to do our homework. Lucky for me, I had Quattro Pete... All he found was youtube videos of guys saying to do the same thing the rep said. I printed off the PDF and brought it in. Boy did his tune change... Not only that but we also bought a combo patch/plug to make the correct repair.

So, thank you guys once again!

 

[durallymax]

You should always plug and patch the hole. A two piece plug patch is easiest.

To take it from the top.

1. Mark valvestem location on sidewall, then dismount tire.

2. Put tire on spreader with adequate lighting.

3. Locate hole, or object stuck in tire.

4. If object is stuck in tire, remove it slowly and not the angle it went in, then insert a feeler tool to make sure you are correct about the angle. If no object to be removed, insert a feeler tool to find the angle of the puncture. This is all to avoid drilling an additional hole. Leave tool in hole.

5. Grab the proper sized carbide reamer for the plug you are using (most mount them in air drills), remove the feeler tool and insert the reamer at the same angle and with the drill running ream the hole a few times.

6. Buff an area around the hole slightly larger than the patch, not too much. Only buff enough to remove the inner liner, too much will hit cords and then you are done.

7. Scrape buffed area with scraper.

8. Apply cleaner to rag and scrub the buffed area.

9. Apply vulcanizing glue to the buffed area and allow to dry.

10. While waiting for glue to dry go wire wheel the rim and replace the stem if needed.

11. Grab the two piece plug by the metal stem and remove the protective covering on the two areas that will be contacting the tire. Apply a small amount of glue to the end of it for lube. Then insert the metal point through the hole from the inside of the tire, pull the plug/patch through using a vice grip by grabbing the metal stem. Make sure to never touch the areas that will be contacting the tire after removing the protective covering.

12. "thumb" the patch onto the tire first then Stitch the patch onto the inside of the tire using a stitcher working from the center to the edges in all directions, the more the better. Then remove the plastic protector from the patch.

13. Apply liquid inner tube to the patch and all areas around it that were buffed.

14. Cut plug off leaving 1/8" or so protruding.

15. Clean beads of tire if needed them, remount tire, air up, check for leaks on the ENTIRE TIRE (there may be more than the one you fixed) and return to service.


One last note that is very important. Use only one brand for everything. The products are all designed to work together. Pick a brand and stick with it. Where I worked we used Tech.

Good luck.