Ode to An 03 Suburban

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted by A_Spruce

I love my Burb! She's been a great vehicle, comfortable, reasonably quiet, spacious as long as you're not using it as a haul vehicle, 'cuz it ain't a truck! :lol: 3 row seating, 3rd row removable and 2nd row folds flat, can get full sheets of plywood in. Good tow capacity too!

RIGHT ON BRO !! Burban man over here in Dallas. I have 2 right now, One for my local business and another out of state for business also. One is my daily driver a loaded black on black 2001 5.3 LT G80/GT4, New recovered front seats and still kicking strong @ 320K miles running M1 5W30 truck/Suv I picked up outside Dallas for $1500 Other is a rare orange/maroon '02 5.3 flexfuel LS 170K miles that I picked up for $1200 wholesale running and driving. Tune up, Shocks, brakes, Basic trans service(Solenoids, Fluid, Filter/kit.) she's kicking STRONG !!! Even my transmission buddy was speechless lol Dave

Nice vehicles Dave 🇺🇸👍🍻

 

[GMguy84]

If i keep finding GOOD deals on these rigs, No longer oil clearance king I'm going to be called the "Suburban King" 🤣 🤣


Dave

 

[350Rocket]

I would like one as a backup work rig/daily driver but I never see good deals on them. Seems like they're in high demand. My neighbor has around an 02, 2wd, that I drool over, looks like he takes good care of it. It's always pulling a trailer though.

$2000 for one with a broken frame and bad fuel pump. $2500 for another with 380,000kms, runs good, ideal for parts. Nothing else below $4000.

 

[A_Spruce]

I ran into the same thing when looking for my 03, most were virtual derelicts at top dollar, when I found Baby at $5400, I jumped on her! I periodically look for used trucks, because I need one, and it's the same deal, absolute thrashed garbage is still asking top dollar. I don't get it, but then, everyone seems to think they've got gold when reality is, they've got dog turds.

 

[A_Spruce]

Latest update:

I crawled under the Burb last weekend and relubed a number of suspension hinge points. The good news is that the ride noise and harshness has almost completely gone away. The clunk is still present, but greatly diminished. The only difference this time over the last suspension lube is that I got the rear sway bar bushings that attach to the frame. I somehow managed to miss those the last time around. I think this is where the "clunk" is coming from and I intend to keep hitting all the hinge points with lube until the clunk goes away. I'm not sure if any of the bushing, specifically the sway bar bushings, need replacement or simply need some lube after 17 years. They don't look bad under inspection, but obviously this is where the noise is coming from.

On an unrelated note, I've also been having AC issues. Started off about two months ago having poor cooling issue, leak tested (ok) and recharged (24oz) it was good for a couple weeks, then went out. The pressure switch bit the dust. A couple weeks later it's not cooling at all, zero! I also notice green dye all over the receiver dryer and surrounding area. The low pressure tube out of the firewall ruptured. That has now been fixed and the system recharged. It's definitely blowing colder again, but with only a 2 minle drive home from the shop, it wasn't able to blow all of the hot air out of the cabin before I got home. It was cold, but not "cold" like you really want on a hot day. Again, I attribute this to not enough time for the system to overcome the heat within the cabin on the short drive home. Fingers crossed, the AC is finally fixed for the duration!

 

[A_Spruce]

Anybody got any particular car care products they like? I'm looking for a tire and trim product that doesn't leave a greasy film. The latest one I've tried goes on greasy and gooey, then completely vanishes once it dries. By completely vanishes, I mean that you might as well never have used anything at all, it goes completely away.

 

[A_Spruce]

Hey guys,

I will be replacing the passenger window regulator, as it has broken. First you could only hear the "click" when you throw the switch, then it worked for 20 seconds, then the motor runs without the window moving. I suspect the gear set in the motor has gone out. At any rate, I've ordered a new regulator/motor unit that will be here in a week. Seems like a pretty straight forward repair.

In taking the door apart, I inadvertently smashed the courtesy light bulb when closing the door, so I've got to get a new bulb. I'm considering replacing all of the interior lights with LEDs, as they will be brighter and burn less of the battery when getting in/out of the vehicle dozens of times a day getting tools. For the most part I keep the interior light switch off, but it would be nice not to have to do this.

Next on the list is an intermittent brake vibration. Sometimes it's really bad, most of the time it's mildly annoying, sometimes it's nonexistent. Not really sure why this would be, but that's the symptoms. The left rear ebrake shoe delaminated recently, which caused all kinds of vibration a couple times during the delaminating process. I've replaced it, but have not done the right side yet due to time and weather restrictions. At any rate, because the vibration has been a long time issue, I'm guessing warped rotors, and since the rotor has to come off to change the ebrake shoe, I might as well do it at the same time. The question is, stock, solid rotors or slotted and vented? I've seen and heard advantages to both, but would like to hear from those that actually turn wrenches for a living as to what they've seen to be best. I do not do much towing, nor is it a heavy tow load, so I don't likely need anything other than a good quality OEM replacement.

Last question on the list, for the moment, is how to clean/degrease the engine. There isn't too much build up, but there's enough that you can't see if there are active leaks or if it's "natural" build up. The vehicle does not drip any fluids, however, it does frequently have hot oil and coolant odors. Water pump was replaced about a year ago and it's always had a light coolant odor. The coolant reservoir is ever so slightly down at the moment, nothing has been added since the water pump change. Again, I don't think there is a leak, but I also don't like the smell of hot coolant all the time. I had an 02 Sierra that always smelled of coolant too, so it might just be an LS thing? Anyway, with all the electronics under the hood, I am hesitant to simply spray it down with degreaser and hose it off. Last thing I need is to destroy something on my only vehicle.

 

[350Rocket]

Hey guys,

I will be replacing the passenger window regulator, as it has broken. First you could only hear the "click" when you throw the switch, then it worked for 20 seconds, then the motor runs without the window moving. I suspect the gear set in the motor has gone out. At any rate, I've ordered a new regulator/motor unit that will be here in a week. Seems like a pretty straight forward repair.

In taking the door apart, I inadvertently smashed the courtesy light bulb when closing the door, so I've got to get a new bulb. I'm considering replacing all of the interior lights with LEDs, as they will be brighter and burn less of the battery when getting in/out of the vehicle dozens of times a day getting tools. For the most part I keep the interior light switch off, but it would be nice not to have to do this.

Next on the list is an intermittent brake vibration. Sometimes it's really bad, most of the time it's mildly annoying, sometimes it's nonexistent. Not really sure why this would be, but that's the symptoms. The left rear ebrake shoe delaminated recently, which caused all kinds of vibration a couple times during the delaminating process. I've replaced it, but have not done the right side yet due to time and weather restrictions. At any rate, because the vibration has been a long time issue, I'm guessing warped rotors, and since the rotor has to come off to change the ebrake shoe, I might as well do it at the same time. The question is, stock, solid rotors or slotted and vented? I've seen and heard advantages to both, but would like to hear from those that actually turn wrenches for a living as to what they've seen to be best. I do not do much towing, nor is it a heavy tow load, so I don't likely need anything other than a good quality OEM replacement.

Last question on the list, for the moment, is how to clean/degrease the engine. There isn't too much build up, but there's enough that you can't see if there are active leaks or if it's "natural" build up. The vehicle does not drip any fluids, however, it does frequently have hot oil and coolant odors. Water pump was replaced about a year ago and it's always had a light coolant odor. The coolant reservoir is ever so slightly down at the moment, nothing has been added since the water pump change. Again, I don't think there is a leak, but I also don't like the smell of hot coolant all the time. I had an 02 Sierra that always smelled of coolant too, so it might just be an LS thing? Anyway, with all the electronics under the hood, I am hesitant to simply spray it down with degreaser and hose it off. Last thing I need is to destroy something on my only vehicle.

I think my truck smelled slight like coolant for like a year before the water pump failed, but I never smelled it again after that. It also seems to need less top up after a coolant flush (used to have to top up once a month or 2 - now it barely moves from full over a few months).

The LEDs are probably a good idea. I am in the same boat, opening the doors probably 20-40 times a day (never counted). That and listening to the radio without the engine on and 10-30 starts a day on job sites. I put the charger on every few weeks for an overnight top up. It was minus 19 a couple mornings this week, I got woken up to boost my neighbors Santa Fe this morning. My truck cranked over good and fast.

 

[clinebarger]

Hey guys,

I will be replacing the passenger window regulator, as it has broken. First you could only hear the "click" when you throw the switch, then it worked for 20 seconds, then the motor runs without the window moving. I suspect the gear set in the motor has gone out. At any rate, I've ordered a new regulator/motor unit that will be here in a week. Seems like a pretty straight forward repair.

In taking the door apart, I inadvertently smashed the courtesy light bulb when closing the door, so I've got to get a new bulb. I'm considering replacing all of the interior lights with LEDs, as they will be brighter and burn less of the battery when getting in/out of the vehicle dozens of times a day getting tools. For the most part I keep the interior light switch off, but it would be nice not to have to do this.

Next on the list is an intermittent brake vibration. Sometimes it's really bad, most of the time it's mildly annoying, sometimes it's nonexistent. Not really sure why this would be, but that's the symptoms. The left rear ebrake shoe delaminated recently, which caused all kinds of vibration a couple times during the delaminating process. I've replaced it, but have not done the right side yet due to time and weather restrictions. At any rate, because the vibration has been a long time issue, I'm guessing warped rotors, and since the rotor has to come off to change the ebrake shoe, I might as well do it at the same time. The question is, stock, solid rotors or slotted and vented? I've seen and heard advantages to both, but would like to hear from those that actually turn wrenches for a living as to what they've seen to be best. I do not do much towing, nor is it a heavy tow load, so I don't likely need anything other than a good quality OEM replacement.

Last question on the list, for the moment, is how to clean/degrease the engine. There isn't too much build up, but there's enough that you can't see if there are active leaks or if it's "natural" build up. The vehicle does not drip any fluids, however, it does frequently have hot oil and coolant odors. Water pump was replaced about a year ago and it's always had a light coolant odor. The coolant reservoir is ever so slightly down at the moment, nothing has been added since the water pump change. Again, I don't think there is a leak, but I also don't like the smell of hot coolant all the time. I had an 02 Sierra that always smelled of coolant too, so it might just be an LS thing? Anyway, with all the electronics under the hood, I am hesitant to simply spray it down with degreaser and hose it off. Last thing I need is to destroy something on my only vehicle.

OE style brake rotors will be fine. I prefer GM OE brake pads on these.

Your Heater Hose fittings & or Tees (rear heat) could be dripping, it's not normal to have a coolant smell.....It's leaking somewhere!!

Do not pressure wash the engine.....The water will end-up down in the Knock Sensor Wells under the Intake & rust up the Sensors & Harness.

 

[A_Spruce]

Hey guys,

It's time to replace the rotors on the ol' Burb. Checking the AC Delco site for part numbers, they've got a dozen different rotors, but zero info on what differentiates one from another. Does anyone have any recommendations for a site that has the different rotor specs? Do you have any recommendations for a specific rotor?

The Burb pulls a light trailer periodically, never more than 4K total tow weight. She's a stock daily driver, so I don't think that we need to reinvent the wheel to find a suitable set of rotors. I tend to stick to OEM parts, but am open to any good quality brands. All help is appreciated.

 

[A_Spruce]

Hey guys,

What is the point of a ground strap connecting the hood to the body? No lights or electrical in the hood, seems odd that it needs a ground strap. The reason I ask is the end of the strap broke off the eyelet attached to the hood.

 

[A_Spruce]

One other update to post. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. Rather shocking that the pump was around $500 and the labor was another $500. I figured it was the fuel pump, but I don't have the time, tools, or inclination to do much of my own wrenching, especially on my daily driver. If this were a second or third vehicle, I'd have done it myself.