Noob to the site - here to get schooled

[Jumbo]

Hi all! Newb to the site. Been modifying an NA Infiniti FX for the last two years and recently went forced induction.

I'm an experienced Boeing engineer and look forward to getting familiar with all the little details of my future oil. I'm not completely in the dark and have been lurking here enough to know what I don't know.

So immediately after my engine break in sometime in the next three weeks, I will be draining the break-in oil and filling with an oil based on the recommendations I get from this thread. (yes, I plan to get the oil checked out)

Here's the need to know info:

OEM Oil:
Dry engine capacity - 5.75 quarts
API Certification Mark*1
API grade SG/SH, Energy Conserving I & II or
API grade SJ or SL, Energy Conserving*1
ILSAC grade GF-I, GF-II & GF-III *1

2004 Infiniti FX35 (VQ35DE)- Now modified with forged pistons & rods, return fuel system, intercooled 35R turbo and built 5AT. There is an oil-catch can for collection of blow-by.

I put 110,000 miles on the original motor but as part of the turbo build, did a core swap longblock package. The shop will put in oil for the break in, but has requested my oil of choice after the break-in.

I live and drive in the hot & humid Houston Texas.

I drive 400 miles per week - mostly highway. This is my daily driver first and foremost - just a really fun daily driver. I want the ability to ask the car for what it is capable of when the moment is right - and protect the engine long term with the right oil. Longevity would be my priority. Even with the capabilities of my build, the tune will be relatively conservative as the threshold of the 5AT will limit peak output to somewhere between 400 - 425whp. Will know for sure with a dyno run after the break in.

No real preferences when it comes to conventional or synthetic - I'm a clean slate at this point. I'm hoping for some other VQ owners to at least chime in with what they are using and I do plan to have analysis done on the break in oil as well as for the first oil change and then at least once a year after that.

I'll be running a removable cartridge filter system that does NOT contain a bypass. All oil will be filtered all the time. Since these cartridges are special order, no reason the oil can't be as well. But easier and available is always the goal, of course.

 

[c3po]

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

so what did the long block vendor say to use? 5w30?

 

[RISUPERCREWMAN]

Personally I would run Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w 0r 5w30...

 

[sunfire]

Pick any premium synthetic xW-30, have the oil tested after the second OCI. Then go from there.

 

[Johnny]

to BITOG

Considering what you have done and where your located I would personally use either the Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra in the 10w30 viscosity. If you don't like this brand, pick your favorite synthetic in this viscosity.

Nice car

 

[Jumbo]

Originally Posted By: sunfire
Pick any premium synthetic xW-30, have the oil tested after the second OCI. Then go from there.


Stepping in with zero insight - this was my plan. Conventional for engine break in - oil testing - 5w30 for OCI#1 - oil testing.

Any VQ owners that went away from OEM and noticed any impact positive or negative?

 

[Audi Junkie]

Rotella T5 10w30.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?site.../t5_detail.html

 

[edhackett]

This engine in its stock form as proven year after year, UOA after UOA that it does better on thicker oils than GF-4 30 weights. This one is heavily modified to put out what, nearly twice factory HP on its petite Nissan bearings?

I wouldn't use anything in that engine that did not have a HTHS greater than 3.5. That would be oils that meet or exceed ACEA A3.

AJ's T5 recommendation is good, T5 10W-40 would be better. Castrol Syntec 0W-30(GC) is another SAE 30 that meets A3 and has proven itself in turbo applications.

I'd be looking at the Euro formulated 5W-40s or Rotella T6 if this were my car.


Ed

 

[Jumbo]

Thanks Ed. I've been looking around for where to buy either the T5 or T6 options and I'm not having much luck. Any popular distributors for this forum?

Would you expect a transition to another oil after so many OCIs? I assume that's a question I can answer with oil analysis once we get some miles on the motor.

 

[Jumbo]

Oil was Rotella T6 5w30 and the motor had only 800 break-in miles at the time of analysis.

Fully built VQ35DE with GT35R turbo

 

[Audi Junkie]

Don't you mean 5w-40?

The fuel got to it.

Try 1000 miles on 15w40 when temps allow. Until then, you're stuck with 5w-40.

Some would say to try Redline out to 2k, seems reasonable. Maybe 10w-40.

Hopefully long term you can step down to Rotella 10w30 T5 after wear settles down.

 

[tig1]

Off topic for a moment. As a retired welder, and still doing some work, I couldn't help noticeing the the alum tube work and alum welding on your turbo tubing. I just completed several 3" alum and steel weld joints for two differant engines(Camaro and 93 Pontiac). Clean job. Try Mobil 1 5w30 as it has the Honda HTO-06 high temp, low deposit spec for turbos. I believe Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 also has that spec.

 

[Fallguy]

Originally Posted By: edhackett
This engine in its stock form as proven year after year, UOA after UOA that it does better on thicker oils than GF-4 30 weights. This one is heavily modified to put out what, nearly twice factory HP on its petite Nissan bearings?

I wouldn't use anything in that engine that did not have a HTHS greater than 3.5. That would be oils that meet or exceed ACEA A3.

AJ's T5 recommendation is good, T5 10W-40 would be better. Castrol Syntec 0W-30(GC) is another SAE 30 that meets A3 and has proven itself in turbo applications.

I'd be looking at the Euro formulated 5W-40s or Rotella T6 if this were my car.


Ed


+1 on an ACEA A3 oil click on my link for spec comparison tool to aid in your search. Thinking maybe redline for your break in (moly zddp) then Amsoil, Valvoline Synpower or Pennzoil Ultra from there or "German" Castrol Syntec 0w30?

 

[shpankey]

If that were mine I'd be putting in Redline 10w40 or Royal Purple XPR 10w40. On the cheap I'd try Mobil 1 15w50

 

[Steve S]

I would use Redline 10w-40 or Mobil 1 15W-50 . No need for a 0W or 5W oil. 10w or 15w is more appropriate. The engine doesn't put out the power when cruising but when the pedal is to the metal there probably is some stress on the bearings. The 40 will help.