Non-Stink Iron-X

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The odor of these products has been talked about but I remember one being discussed that actually has a pleasant scent to it. But now I can't remember which one it is. I did send an email to Autogeek and received a reply. It's less stinky(rotten egg) but again I thought there was one that actually had a pleasant scent to it. Like pepper mint or something. Report back if you know. Of course a less stink product is better than a full stink one. Below is the answer to my email:

Hello Matt, I would recommend using Dodo Juice's Iron Remover. It does not have the strong smell that Iron X does but works just as well. http://www.autogeek.net/dodo-juice-ferrous-dueller.html
 
I can only imagine how bad the smell of the others is considering how some have described it. I have a bottle of Auto Finesse Iron Out which should be arriving tomorrow. I'm looking forward to trying it on the MDX.
 
You may need a respirator from the description of it.

Plus what areas to apply it on? I would think the lower half only and maybe the trunk since I've seen DD put it on there. Skip the roof and hood since I haven't noticed any rail dust on those areas.
 
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
You may need a respirator from the description of it.

Plus what areas to apply it on? I would think the lower half only and maybe the trunk since I've seen DD put it on there. Skip the roof and hood since I haven't noticed any rail dust on those areas.



Horizontal surfaces are especially prone to collecting the rust -- seen photos on detailing sites where they're fairly liberal with application to the roof, hood, and trunk. Rear bumper is a big spot too since the "vacuum" behind the car tends to draw particles to it.
 
Yes, I noticed the back hatch area on the Matrix gets a ton of rail dust on it. Just as much as the sides of the car. Plus the rear lip area of the roof gets hit.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
You may need a respirator from the description of it.

Plus what areas to apply it on? I would think the lower half only and maybe the trunk since I've seen DD put it on there. Skip the roof and hood since I haven't noticed any rail dust on those areas.



Horizontal surfaces are especially prone to collecting the rust -- seen photos on detailing sites where they're fairly liberal with application to the roof, hood, and trunk. Rear bumper is a big spot too since the "vacuum" behind the car tends to draw particles to it.


Interesting. Have a good link?
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
You may need a respirator from the description of it.

Plus what areas to apply it on? I would think the lower half only and maybe the trunk since I've seen DD put it on there. Skip the roof and hood since I haven't noticed any rail dust on those areas.



Horizontal surfaces are especially prone to collecting the rust -- seen photos on detailing sites where they're fairly liberal with application to the roof, hood, and trunk. Rear bumper is a big spot too since the "vacuum" behind the car tends to draw particles to it.

Not in my experience with two white cars. It's almost all on the lower half and those surfaces are vertical. When you look at the Detailer's Domain write-ups most of the effort is concentrated there as well.
 
I don't have any links handy, but if you Google for "detailers domain iron x" or something like that you'll see what I mean. They tend to just spray the whole car, or even use the special car soap that has it.
 
I always apply it to the entire car, but most of the build-up seems to be concentrated on the horizontal panels (trunk lid, roof and hood).

The more contaminants that you can remove via Iron-X, the less that you will have to remove through claying. And that means less chance of marring.

I've heard that none of the Iron-X alternatives work as well as the real Iron-X Paste, fwiw.
 
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