Review: Iron-X Snow Soap

[The Critic]

Iron-X snow soap was designed to be used on coated cars as a maintenance product. Since it has the ability to remove a light amount of industrial fall out, it is more aggressive than your typical car wash soap.

On the two cars that I used it on, the Snow Soap left the paint feeling squeaky clean. After seeing its performance today on a very dirty vehicle, I am certain that this stuff cleans better than Dawn. I also noticed that the paint coating (Opti-Coat) sheeted/beaded significantly better after using this product, so clearly this soap did something to return the coating to a like-new performance.

The application process is a bit different though -- it was never intended to be used in a bucket. One of the recommended methods of use can inflict marks if you are not careful. If the car is extremely dirty, for cost-effective use, you may want to wash with a normal shampoo first, then do a second-wash with Iron-X snow soap. Foaming the car with Iron-X Snow Soap may not be cost-effective.

This was my method of using Iron-X Snow Soap: get a lightly wet wool wash mitt, apply two dime-sized drops, lather up, and wash a panel. Rinse out the mitt in a bucket of clean water after each panel.



The Snow Soap will generate a lot of thick suds, and the suds will cling to the panels for quite a while, even if the car is coated:



In terms of cost-effectiveness, this is how much was left after doing both a Prius and an Altima using the method described above. Prior to this, the bottle was brand-new:



All done!



To recap,

Pros: Awesome cleaning ability, ability to restore paint coatings to a like-new performance level by degreasing and removing light contamination, no added waxes or gloss enhancers

Cons: Odor, cost, slight irritation to skin after prolonged use.

Thanks for reading!

Link to the product: http://www.carpro-us.com/iron-x-snow-soap-1-liter/auto-wash/

 

[mjoekingz28]

Nice report!

I'm glad to see your skills in both application of product and selection of product improve over time.




So is this product a replacement for a clay bar kit?

 

[CharBaby]

Indeed, nice report!

Although clay isn't really an abbrasive contaminent remover, this may infact be a chemical contaminent remover as compared to the clay bar. And too, may be time(and arm/shoulder) savings compared to clay.

Before discovering clay, I always used light duty compounding to remove contaminents and bring the paint to that brillience that the customer desired.

 

[Hermann]

Wow, It turned a Prius into a Nissan, serious though looks great.

 

[Pablo]

Mike - this is a step I will do this summer. I will wash my car first, then follow up with an iron removal product. How do you think Iron-X compares with other iron removal products for paint? (not wheel cleaners)

 

[doitmyself]

I need to be schooled on metallic industrial fallout imbedded in the clear coat. Is this a common occurrence across the country? I am aware of rail dust on new cars and have seen imbedded brake particles on car paint when pad backs directly rub rotors.

I clay my car once a year, but I don't seem to notice any unusual amount of imbedded particles, metallic or otherwise.

 

[qwertydude]

If you're already claying regularly then I'd say you don't need the iron decontaminating soap since you're already doing a yearly decontamination.

The one thing I've always been weary of is the stuff is designed to basically dissolve iron, so if you have some deep rock chips that go down into the steel you could possibly be introducing a corrosive product onto the steel itself.

That's why when I was shown those products before I'm left wondering when people "decontaminate" their cars I always see such huge color changes in the treatment and then people claim "see how effectively it's working?"

What I would be interested in is if I had a fully decontaminated car; clayed and compounded, is if the decontaminating soap still shows such dramatic color changes. If so then I might start suspecting that it's reacting with the actual car body iron through the deep rock chips and paint pores.

Because one thing is certain people generally avoid washing their cars with Dawn because it does do such a good job at cleaning that the surface is dewaxed and is prone to recontamination.

Specific decontaminating soaps therefore would be in just the same extreme which means you'd need to, at the minimum, do a full waxing after. And even then my recommendation would be to do a full regular wash to ensure that none of the decontaminating chemicals stays in any paint pores or rock chips potentially eating away at whatever iron it contacts.

These heavy duty professional products are nice but remember the old detailing adage, use the least aggressive method to get the job done.

 

[buster]

I will probably pick this up and use it this spring. My car is an absolute MESS right now.

Good review, thanks.

 

[dailydriver]

I am certain this is GREAT stuff, but the plebian, old Meguiars Gold took all of the caked on salt/silt off of my car VERY well when I FINALLY got a warm enough day to wash and Collinite it before the next Arctic onslaught.

 

[The Critic]

Thanks guys.

This stuff is not a replacement for the clay bar. In fact, this product was only intended as a maintenance product.

For the initial decontamination, you need to use the actual Iron-X product. I have found that after an Iron-X treatment, it usually takes me 1/3 as long to clay the vehicle.

I think Iron-X is still the best product on the product, AFAIK. Plus Corey's service at Car-Pro is unparalleled in the industry. Here's a comparison that someone did a while back: http://www.live2detail.com/showthread.php?5525-Carpro-iron-X-vs-Auto-Finesse-Iron-out

The theory is that airborne ferrous particles can penetrate the pores of the paint surface. Claying removes the top layer, but Iron-X can remove/release the ferrous particles that are in the paint's subsurface. The concept is very similar to the OEM-approved, ValuGard ABC Paint Decontamination System. On cars that have been thoroughly clayed, I've found that there is little color change -- which is why I only use Iron-X to speed up the initial clay process.

Lastly, this stuff will probably kill most oil-based waxes and sealants. Even synthetic sealants will probably be adversely affected. That is why the product was only designed for use on vehicles that have been coated with a chemical-resistant coating like CQuartz or Opti-Coat.

 

[SatinSilver]

I emailed Autogeek about a product that has less fumes and was told to go with Dodo Juice Iron Out. Works just as well according to them.

http://www.autogeek.net/dodo-juice-ferrous-dueller.html

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: satinsilver
I emailed Autogeek about a product that has less fumes and was told to go with Dodo Juice Iron Out. Works just as well according to them.

http://www.autogeek.net/dodo-juice-ferrous-dueller.html

You'll never hear anything negative from PBMG. They're basically a marketing rep for every brand they sell.

With that said, CarPro Iron-X is the best product in that category and is widely used by just about every reputable detailer.

 

[The Critic]

More info from CarPro on usage:

http://www.detailingworld.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4424508&postcount=19

I guess it's OK to dilute it at a ratio of 1-2oz to 4 gal of water for normal washing, but at this dilution, there would be no decontamination effect.

 

[Garak]

As was already mentioned, the product changed the Prius into a Nissan. If you do it again, will it become a new G37? If so, send me a PM.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Garak
As was already mentioned, the product changed the Prius into a Nissan. If you do it again, will it become a new G37? If so, send me a PM.

LOL. I would rather have that V6 Altima than any G37.

 

[Garak]

Yes, but that's like 60 hp short of where it should be.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Lastly, this stuff will probably kill most oil-based waxes and sealants. Even synthetic sealants will probably be adversely affected. That is why the product was only designed for use on vehicles that have been coated with a chemical-resistant coating like CQuartz or Opti-Coat.


Sounds like it would be a GREAT wash to use before going to the multi-step Zaino process.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Lastly, this stuff will probably kill most oil-based waxes and sealants. Even synthetic sealants will probably be adversely affected. That is why the product was only designed for use on vehicles that have been coated with a chemical-resistant coating like CQuartz or Opti-Coat.


Sounds like it would be a GREAT wash to use before going to the multi-step Zaino process.

If I was going to apply a sealant such as Zaino, I'd wash the car with a normal soap, apply Iron-X, clay and finish off with a IPA wipedown.